Hey y'all.
Lookin about for a new volvo to dip my money into and keep myself busy busy. At the moment I've found myself a minty fresh 1992 940, at +400k.
I've already taken a look at and its no nugget let me tell you.
So my question is, is there anything particular about these cars? Or are they just the same as the 240/740's? Cheers.
Speedo/odo issues are probably the biggest 940 problem.
Interiors are much better than 740 interiors.
They’ve all got the better thrust bearing cranks.
If you can live with a 240 or a 740, you can live with a 940.
The 940s are a nice car. They're basically an update of the 240/740. I have two of them, 91 940GL with 410K km and 94 940GLE with 422K km. Both sedans.
As Spac mentioned they suffer with dodgy speedos. The speedo on my 91 failed in 2001 but after I had it repaired it's been fine. I think this is more a problem for the earlier 940s around 91/92. Someone feel free to correct me though.
My 91 rarely gives trouble although it has broken down twice in the last 18 months. First breakdown was caused by the fuel pump relay. Second breakdown was the radio suppression relay. Both are common causes of breakdowns on these cars. Keep a spare of each in the glovebox.
The 94 I bought as a project back in late 2020. You can read about it in this thread:
https://ozvolvo.org/d/13534-13534/19
Biggest problem I've had with this car is almost constant leaks - especially engine oil and coolant. I've been chasing an oil leak for what seems like forever. I think I've fixed it then it starts again a few weeks later. I've gone through several rocker cover gaskets as they keep leaking. I just recently noticed a couple of oil spots on the floor after I "fixed" the leak a few weeks earlier. I've had trouble with dodgy Elring gaskets though but it's aggravating.
Check for corrosion around the battery tray area. There are are some pictures of such corrosion in the thread linked above. 940's seem to be afflicted with this more than 240s/740s.
Some jobs are easier on a 940 compared to a 240. The heater fan is a simple and reasonably quick job compared to a 240 but a heater core replacement is just as bad. The distributor on the back of the cylinder head is a little more fiddly and inconvenient compared to a 240 but not really a big deal. It helps to have small hands.
I've had four. Two 944 parts cars, and two 93 model 945 daily drivers - one NA, one turbo.
Trim and NVH levels are much improved over 740s. 94+ models got improved seals (plastic foam moulded seals) between the door frame and the door cards.
91 has a one-year-only fuel gauge and tank sender.
91-93 clusters will interchange, but note the fuel gauge is different on 91s. 94+ instrument clusters use different connectors to earlier models.
93+ models have a different auto shift lever handle, and different engine oil cooling and transmission oil cooling setups to earlier models.
93+ models have a round toothed timing belt and have L-blocks with squiters fitted. The method of testing the SRS system is also different from 91-92. The 93+ factory turbos also use a different intercooler to the 91-92 and 740Ts.
94+ steering wheel clock springs for the SRS are different to earlier models.
94+ also have a single in-tank fuel pump and some different wiring colour codes to earlier models.
94+ turbos didn't get a boost gauge nor ECC. The manual HVAC controller is vacuum / electrically driven, not cable operated like the 740 manual system.
Like the 700s, the fuel filler door design incorporates a stupid plastic hinge and is held to the body with even stupider plastic retainers. This is why many Seven and Nines lack fuel filler doors.
As others have said, heater fan motor replacement is much easier than on 240s. Beware of clogged drains. Note the 700 fan motor is different from 900s (2-pole connector on 900), and there's different heater fan versions for LHD and RHD. (Note the 940 LHD motor fits in RHD 960s, and vice versa, so there's plenty of stock of both from the usual suspects).
Heater core replacement is inevitable, and a total PITA to do. When ordering a heater core replacement from England (because they make the best ones and aren't ridiculous with their pricing) get the core with the long hooked pipes.
If you don't want to cook the engine, replace the standard 2-port heater tap with a 4-port Commodore heater tap,, so the water recirculates back to the head when "Recirc" is engaged. The heater core in 700/900 is designed to be a constant part of the cooling system, and cabin temp is regulated by flaps in the HVAC, not the amount of coolant flowing through the heater core. But some idiot engineer designed the heater tap to 'open circuit' the coolant flow path when "recirc" was engaged to promote rapid cabin cooling.... while ignoring the coolant needs of the engine on the very same days when coolant flow around the back of the engine will be most needed.
The cable tie is an inherent design feature of the 700 and 900 series.
Certainly the nicest steering rear wheel drive Volvo of any era. 400k is getting there.
You don’t want a money pit of continual repairs.
Gearboxes are good in this era but check the 4th gear overdrive / override works, it cuts in at 90km/h usually on a slope.
Being heavy vehicles they are hard on brakes, so look for evidence of maintenance / receipts fluid flush.
Ensure diff is quiet.
Heavy means higher fuel consumption, but thsts near irrelevant as they are generally cheap to run as long as there in good order.
Parting comment, a car has to be good enough so if you have to pump a grand into it every now and then, its worth having it.
If no walk away.
