Julian's 240

Ghettobird · 2015-02-25T09:00:32+00:00

Here she is! My beautiful red 92 240 sedan that I now have on club plates, Ive started improving handling by fitting a 79 242 GT 23mm rear sway bar, a...

Ghettobird

Also working with Broke4speed on Tb on tracing and mapping the Motronic 1.8 bin & xdf.
Might be able to reprogram and use one of my Ostrich 2.0s to cram some more fuel in for when I make a silly decision & bolt a GT35 onto it

Thread here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=5800623#post5800623

Vee_Que

So a t6 swap in the future too?

Good that it finally has a whiteblock in it, and a factory wiring harness, I'm guessing it was less complicated than the c70 harness?

Ghettobird

Im thinking T6 hybrid - 960 head with an early T6s valve train.
A set of cheap rods & see how far I can get it before it melts
Nah, both are the same.
They arent complicated, just moreso than LH2.4 or the likes

Slowbrick

Ghettobird;137263 wroteHell yeah I am!
Heaps of time for me to get it all buttoned up

We all say that until life says otherwise :p

Ghettobird

Finished the power steering high pressure side today, definitely not the cheapest way to get done, but it lets me retain stock lines & gives me a bit of extra wiggle room If I need to push the hoses out of the way for big pipes

Enzed in Morabbin silver soldered an AN bung onto the back end of a Female power steering bump fittings pulled out of a spare pump, then pieced it all together.
One thing to be said though, these power steering hose fittings are an absolute prick to assemble. Any more force required and a steel fitting would be needed.

gavinh

Did you ever contemplate going for a manual rack? I did read somwhere that it was almost a straight bolt up with the steering rack, but obviously it has its complications too

Vee_Que

A steel fitting could have gone straight to the stock fittings too with no awkward adaptors. Done that before.

Ghettobird

Yes but a female bump fitting does not actually exist - You can get the male end that goes into the pump, but not the female part

Vee_Que

I mean using the old fitting with a new crimp, pirtek and enzed can do that. It was a steel pipe wasn't it?

Ghettobird

That'd require getting under the car and pulling the line off - not possible at the moment.
Also as stated before, I don't want a custom line, an adapter means standard parts are still usable

pieboyfresh

I think my mate might have spotted you on Wednesday...

Edit: Nope, sorry - just realised you're running different wheels on it now. Not sure who that one belongs to.

Ghettobird

I wish it was me!!!
Still a few weeks off :)

Ghettobird

Starting to put the relay box back together, wiring is starting to thin out a bit.
Next up is to get the trans cross member back in, shift linkage & wire up the gear selector to the tcu

Ramrodfunk

Ghettobird;c-41776 wroteThe problem:

Every time I bent it back, itd hit again 10 minutes later.

This is how I fixed the issue:

Larger bracket bolt & 3 Nice zinc spacers

Glue thoes Mofo's together for easier handling (The Zinc washers)

Finished product:

The extra 1cm of clearence was all I needed, I did both sides to be sure.

Not sure how helpful it will be when the car is lowered... But it hasnt hit in the past 3 weeks!

Hi Julian,
I've scored myself a Ford 27mm sway bar that I want to install this weekend.
What is the size of the bolt you used to space out the brake lines?
I'd like to buy it in advance of fitting the bar this weekend.

Cheers Rod

Ghettobird

About 3 zinc washers thicker than stock =)
I didnt measure at the time as I unbolted one side, went to bunnings & used their hanging thread checker board in the bolts isle, and added approx 3 washers of length to it XD

Id also reccomend getting the right brackets 7 bushings too, I used the original ones and cut them out - Super sketchy

Now I have superpro 27mm bushes in Kmac D bush holders (The super pro ones dont drop enough to clear the seam welds) and it works perfectly

Slowbrick

Another alternative to that is to make some spacers out of 25 x 25mm square tube. That is what I did in my 245 which spaced the bar away from the body and therefore gave it room away from the brake lines.

Ramrodfunk

Slowbrick;c-137970 wroteAnother alternative to that is to make some spacers out of 25 x 25mm square tube. That is what I did in my 245 which spaced the bar away from the body and therefore gave it room away from the brake lines.

Cheers Julian ,good advice. I'll work out the D brackets and bushes with what I've got at the moment and buy some like you advise later.

Thanks Slowbrick I think I have a few pieces of that tube at home.

Thanks

Ghettobird

I had a sift through my Dropbox backups, I never took a picture when I installed them because it was probably 3am at the workshop before a RWC the next morning :'(

As for progress, I recieved my new Innovate MTX-L Plus the other day - It has a faster polling rate than the older model. i dont think its as fast as the new AEM UEGO X series gauges, but their pancake form factor makes them near impossible to install stealthily into my 3 gauge + 2 arrangement

Heres an older pic of my dash - The SELM has since been installed

Im thinking of putting it in the volts position - ditching the clock & leaving the other 3 as they are.

As it sits at the moment - The silicon joiner has since been swapped for a piece of volvo bellows from a PRV, It looks stock as frig. Im ditching the 50A amp fuse box as there isnt anywhere easy to place it, and I was only using 3 of its outputs anway. Ill be routing all 12V needs to a BMW e36 jumper box that ill place in the top left corner of the enginebay, just need to get some snazzy battery terminals & fine my effing blow torch.

Got my cast off on Friday, hectic scar. the 10% of mobility gained in the moon boot is world changing. Expect progress to be a bit quicker now.

gavinh

What year is the engine, does it gave vvt?

Ghettobird

Its a 95, Motronic 1.8 with no VVT. 960s never had vvt

« Previous Page Next Page »