Julian's 240

Ghettobird · 2015-02-25T09:00:32+00:00

Here she is! My beautiful red 92 240 sedan that I now have on club plates, Ive started improving handling by fitting a 79 242 GT 23mm rear sway bar, a...

gavinh

Just seeing that extension to the cam belt cover

Ghettobird

Nah, Its just a B6304 thing

gavinh

Ghettobird;c-138744 wroteNah, Its just a B6304 thing

Mines nice and flat, that's why I assumed it was vtt or somthing

Ghettobird

Battery cable acquired
Massive thanks to Elliot & Kel for their help

Came from an m42 e36

AshDVS

Why the used battery cable? Simply a cost thing?

Ghettobird

Its convenient, used them before on other cars & dont have the tools to make new battery terminals.
Plus the box makes them really easy to hook up auxiliaries and looks super stock

Plus it was 4$

AshDVS

That makes sense.
relocating the battery to the boot on my 240 was around $700 by the time I was done. lol.
Decent battery cable is not cheap.

Vee_Que

Did you use gold cable or something!? Even automotive 0 gauge from ash Downs is under $150, terminals and jumper box is not that much even ten years ago.. Wow.

AshDVS

Vee_Que;c-138989 wroteDid you use gold cable or something!? Even automotive 0 gauge from ash Downs is under $150, terminals and jumper box is not that much even ten years ago.. Wow.

Decent motorsport-spec cabling, ie large gauge while still being highly flexible, with outer sheathing having decent resistance to chemicals, etc is expensive, add to that decent terminals, enclosed battery box and anderson plugs for quick disconnection and charging and it adds up.
It's also quite a different approach to one you'd take to making such a change to help with large stereo equipment, etc.

Ex850R

I found Telstra cable, thicker than battery cable,fantastic fine strands and super Flexi armour.... perfect for battery up back which I plumbed it in for on the ill fated R project. It's gone....

Vee_Que

Not going to go further, but wiring used in heavy trucks lasts millions of kms, and is the stuff sold from ashDowns. It puts up with more than any motor sport would put it through. But interesting to note you can market things differently and charge more.

AshDVS

expert advice as always.

Slowbrick

Because I am unqualified I would like to know exactly what makes the "heavy truck" wiring so hard wearing? Care to explain so we can all benefit and not spend $700 on wiring for no reason.
K thanks.

Vee_Que

People have used welding wire in cars and had no issues. I am not qualified on the side of the electrical cable specifics, but a large truck (a tipper for instance) cops a harder life than most race cars ever will, with more flex, heat and oil exposure in areas than a race car usually would (given truck batteries live away from the heat itself but the wiring goes along the engine, over crossmembers, alongside the gearboxes etc) I know there are extreme cases for motor sports, but in most cases, it's kept out of the weather when not in use. Driven one day out of 15, and after 10 years is scrapped or redone. By comparison, an average tipper will have done 1m kms within 8 years, been running 5-6 days a week and everything gets very hot. The wiring exposed to the gearbox and engine and oils are usually fine. Of course if there is a fire bets are off.

Slowbrick

But what makes the wire so special that makes it superior to something I or anyone else might use?

Ex850R

Never gonna beat 4 bux though...

Vee_Que

Slowbrick;c-139051 wroteBut what makes the wire so special that makes it superior to something I or anyone else might use?

It may not be is the point, trucks use automotive spec battery cable, it withstands the abuse of a truck. Therefore the need for more expensive "motorsport" type is the waste in most instances of running a cable inside a vehicle from front to rear. It will usually be less exposed than a truck one ever will be that lasts tortuous conditions by comparison.

Slowbrick

Vee_Que;c-139062 wrote
Slowbrick;c-139051 wroteBut what makes the wire so special that makes it superior to something I or anyone else might use?
It may not be is the point, trucks use automotive spec battery cable, it withstands the abuse of a truck. Therefore the need for more expensive "motorsport" type is the waste in most instances of running a cable inside a vehicle from front to rear. It will usually be less exposed than a truck one ever will be that lasts tortuous conditions by comparison.

No I meant what makes the truck cable so special. I can buy automotive cable from Jaycar, Repco or Supercheap and they are definitely different qualities. I have however never seen truck or heavy truck cable which is why I'm interested to learn more about it. What is the core made out of? Is the sheath pvc or something else?

Vee_Que

It's ok. AshDowns is ashDown Ingram, it's a major parts supplier for electrical automotive parts, so they supply narva and another brand I've used, and they are pvc outer but are thicker than the jaycar stuff I've personally used.

Ghettobird

Transmission cooler + lines complete. I used some compression fittings from Enzed as the Female side of the stock trans lines didnt seem to exist. Needed to step from 10mm hose to 8mm as the cooler has am 8mm barb on it.

Power steering is now all sealed up & filled.

1 of the 2 heater hoses are fitted, used the top port on the junction as that one goes to the valve in the cabin, connected it to the steel pipe that the water pump feeds. I am using a chopped down 9/7 series hose for the top.

I made up 2x simple engine grounds as the 960 grounds almost entirely through the battery terminals to the chassis and I had eliminated the bay battery wiring.

The car now starts from a starter back located in the boot... grounded through the boot latch :p

Rigged up a SUPER TEMPORARY throttle cable using a red ring terminal & a small nut and bolt. The 240's stock throttle cable accepts the 960s plastic cable guide perfectly, but you almost definetly need to cut off the old cable end. I NEED to get this made up nicely, I do not like how janky this is.

Top hose is complete and fitted - I still want to find a black 34mm inline temp coupler as the 36mm is a biiiit too big for the hose. I made it from pieces of a 240 and 960 rad hose. Easy stuff

Will relocate horns to front right corner where there is HEAPS of free real estate

Charge light is now hooked up as well as a tach signal, Im thinking of making up another 12v ign block in the cabin as there is only so much piggybacking im comfortable with on the old ceramic fuse block.

Cooling fan wiring is next up, Ill be using my old cut down 850 fan mounted in a 740t fan shroud powered by a stock fan relay.

I forgot to take pictures today, Ill upload them tomorrow

Meanwhile - heres another clip of it without headers because I cant help myself & seeing it actually working spurs me on

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