Calvin's BenchRacing thread

calvintibia001 · 2013-11-17T02:50:41+00:00

Manifold is cast. although it is possible to weld it, it is not a simple task and is somewhat prone to cracking afterwards. I also think it would sit too hi...

Ex850R

Alex , would you say that an external waste gate would be a step better than porting the dump valve on the unit itself? If you put the w/g near the outlet to give similar control to the turbo as the internal one (blanking IT off of course)..
The 16T seems the best all rounder , the 850R had it and has the same spool up as the 13 on the LPT motor at around 2500rpm on the whiteblock , just more boost lower on the 13 of course.

calvintibia001

http://www.ardtuning.com/Turbochargers-Upgrade-Components_c_110.html
There is so many stuff that you can spec up your Turbo, 20T, 11 Blade, 7cm^2 housing.

By the time you add all those, its cheaper to get a TD05-16G6.
@Vee_Que you mean TD05 16G ? I know this is too early to think of a 16v Conversion, but I am thinking when I am on my 8v, I will build a J-Pipe and top Mount a TD05-16G, so when I go 16v, the J-Pipe will still bolts up.
J-Pipe have so many benefits, better flow than the stock Turbo Manifold, whatever flange you like, and external wastegate becoz I am learning to weld soon, so I might make my first thing a J-Pipe, doesn't matter it looks like shit.

@Ex850R isn't Dump Valve the BOV ? you mean internal wastegate ? but you have to weld a external wastegate before the exhaust enteres the Turbo, that means tempering with the stock manifold ?

nickm

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=287202
keep an eye on this thread.

calvintibia001

@nickm I still think 18T/19T are too small for 300whp, i would say TD05-16G will be safe and hv more potential, when paired wif some 440cc injectors

Vee_Que

What quarter mile time do you want Calvin? Dynonumbers help for tuning in the real world. A 16t is good for a mid 13 which is about 200rwkw or so. Which is about 300rwhp :p

calvintibia001

I am just aimming for 150rwkw (300hp at the crank), not planning to do a lot of Quarter mile, will be doing more track days next year.

Bring this over from TB:

calvintibia001;4749446 wroteI think my Coil is weak, the car feels lack of power, and it feels like it is running rich, so i went to check the Coil, when I take the cap off the distrubutor and let it spark, it is orange-ish not white/blue ish at all, does it mean its weak ? I know the Cap is fine, coz it is quite new (9 months old, so it should be fine ?)

should i go for a Bosch, or is the MSD (sth sth sth) an upgrade ? anyone knows the part number for the MSD ignition

YLD244;4749450 wroteNah. I don't think it's the coil. Coils usually work or they don't. Or stop working when they get hot.
Could be timing out or ****ty fuel or mixtures.
A weak spark usually results in a noticeable misfire, not lack of power.

calvintibia001;4749446 wroteHmmm, when I rev it and let off, its poping, so thats running rich ?
Thats wt I was thinking at first, but this happened to 2 batches of BP98, and I fill up wif Caltex98 a few days ago, still happening, i hvn't change anything, why would the timing be out, I'll borrow my mates Timing gun and check it tmr : (

Vee_Que

If the cap and disributor rotor haven't been changed in many years it will cause issues. Otherwise the amm could be dirty which you clean with the correct cleaner. And the engine could probably need a clean with upper engine cleaner or the water torture method. How old are the plugs too?

Ben

That's pretty good numbers for a 16T, why would you not got for an 18T or 19T if you wanted more? Remember 1 Bar is 14PSI (ish). From what I can tell, the 19T is problematic for standard engine management on upgraded cars - are you going aftermarket ECU? If so, don't worry about a 19T, if not then yeah, 16T or 18T sounds like a good plan.

I'll be going with a 16/18/19T with mine, whatever presents the best deal at the time. I was planning an 18T on the 850, that seems a good compromise between the reliability of the 16T and the power possibilities of the 19T.

Ex850R

The 11 blade wheels and stuff that ARD has are supposed to fix the boost spikes on the 19T , Lucky can make up or send out the bits to suit your needs and with his tunes you are safe too.

calvintibia001

I sorted out the lack of power, the air filter is fully clogged, cause last week I went to the Beach and was drifting on sand and stuff, it was black and dirty and stuffed. One new paper filter for now (will be Pod when I turbo). Changed the oil and oil filter as well, now it is back with some fully Synthetic awesome 10W-50 (actually I think it feels less slighish after the oil change)

Ben

Ahh, nothing like a nit of beach driving! lol

Remember to feed cold air to the pod or you'll negate the effects to a certain extent.

Spac

Stock Volvo aircleaners are NOT a restriction on stock motors - this has held true for 140, 160, 240, and 740T.

Obviously there comes a time when your power output is high enough that the standard aircleaner does become a restriction, but my gut feeling is that it is quite a lot of power.
Angus' 760T makes over the power you're chasing - would be interesting to know what sort of air cleaner he is running.

calvintibia001

But I think it is harder to find a Turbo Airbox then finding a Pod Filter

Vee_Que

He changed air boxes only to make the intercooler fit. Runs a uni filter in a home made box.

I have spare turbo airboxes. But as said if you run a different sized intercooler you need to get rid of the damn thing.

Anguss 760t makes 160rwkw with a manual box. Well it did years ago and it pinged when it happened.

calvintibia001

@Vee_Que I am planning to gut the NA airbox and then fit a Pod in there, so its more stealth

Ben

That would work well, just make sure it's getting plenty of cold, outside air. Check out Ash's car on what he did for extra air. You could also go a piper cross inline filter which does everything in the single unit: http://www.pipercross.net/fast_road/products_viper.asp

Autospeed, the online mag that Forg wrote for, has/had a lot of good articles on airflow if you want to get really nerdy!

calvintibia001

I will mod the NA box, and use the Hot air intake pipe and route it to the front to get some cold airflow, and will probly use the stock old air intake thing as well

calvintibia001

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316897

More Bench racing, will this actually help the brake fade ?

jamesinc

The easiest thing to do with brake fade is to switch from general road brake pads to racing pads, like EBC Green or Red (or is it Blue?)... high temp pads. They brake worse under low load, but better in racing environments.

There are other things, like using slotted/drilled rotors, which if done correctly can improve braking performance, but beware that chinabay type stuff tends to be all show no/poor/dangerous performance.

calvintibia001

@jamesinc I know, I am keeping my pads and disc, till I have money to upgrade, it will be dumb to upgrade the pads and disc and after 3 months I am upgrading to bigger brakes and have to change the pads and disc again. The brakes are ok in Hill runs and stuff, only problem is once I get onto tracks, after 2-3 laps, they are very squishy, changing over to Castrol Response, have helped a bit.

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