seggle02
I'll take it to work tomorrow to show off to my colleagues.
seggle02
Whilst its first show is some time off, I am wanting to start its display. I have a display poster with Vista Print that I will get printed and I'll put into a frame. Basic info about the Volvo 200 series and the car itself.
I have also dipped into my automobilia collection and have some items suitable from the early-mid 1980s that are suitable. Things like old street directories, road atlases, a rubiks cube, 1982 guinness book of records etc. 1984 master catalogue from Repco (lists EVERYTHING they carried), 1984 Valvoline garage service guide. Will display in the boot come show time.
When the cassette player is fixed I'll get some 80s period cassette tapes for a properly authentic driving experience. Already I have my iPod of 80s playlist playing through the crackly and slightly dull FM radio via a transmitter. Just as I remember the radio in our old 1981 Sigma. I also of course have a 1981 240 brochure, but I also got the colour chart but can't remember where I put it.
familyman
Have you had anything from Vistaprint before? Not asking for me, but you... Because I was talking to someone recently - about A4 sized stuff though - and they claimed the quality was poor.
seggle02
A colleague got a display banner printed up for his car and the quality was fine. I think quality has improved of late.
Vee_Que
seggle02;60726 wroteThe plan is to use 95 or 98 fuel from here on in. Will try 95 first as its cheaper.
My club has been accepted into the logbook scheme, so as a result I will be getting a logbook. Allows 60 days plus club runs. But maintenance/service runs are included in those 60 days. So, I figure, the more work I can do on the car at home, the better. Even washing it. Taking it to get washed would waste a day.
You will save... $3-5 a tank... On a,car in club reg, seems a bit silly to justify it as being cheaper imo.
seggle02
Well the all-night servo in my town has e10 and 98, nothing in between lol. Got a few litres of 98 in it last night. Pinging is all but gone.
seggle02
ok, balljoints boots seem to have split.
No play in balljoints, so should I replace a) the rubber part or b) the whole thing, both sides?
Vee_Que
Both. You don't know how old they are...
jamesinc
seggle02;60852 wroteok, balljoints boots seem to have split.
No play in balljoints, so should I replace a) the rubber part or b) the whole thing, both sides?
Depends. Given that ball joints are pretty cheap, and removing them requires effort, I'd just replace the lot. However, if you don't mind the effort and are certain the balljoints are in good working order, then just replace the boots.
seggle02
familyman
Having had the same dilema in the past, I was thinking the same as James... Especially if importing. i.e. The exchange rate. (Which then brought the cheapskate in me to also consider scissors, an old bicycle tyre tube, and some Tarzan's Grip, LOL.)
seggle02
Well that ad's store is based in Penrith. I might drop them a line this week.
IPD is about $150 delivered for the two joints.
Boots themselves are $30 for a pair from supercheap online store.
familyman
Wonder who the manufacturer of those parts is. I did a search using the part number given on ebay, along with 'Volvo 240'. That only gave a few matches. One of those matches was for another of their auctions. For a Toyota Hilux - yet they list the same part number.
seggle02
Well I ordered a new set of ball joints, $70 delivered from a reputable place in the US. Also got an $18 easel to mount my information board. Its currently in an $18 reject shop frame. Could I build my own custom a-frame sign like I did for the VB? Yes but not for $36......
seggle02
is there a need to put valvesaver in the fuel?
BradC
Nah. The Alloy heads all have hardened valve seats.
familyman
I got so weary of people telling me I had to use LRP in my '78. Lost count how many times I had to point out that Europe ran the same cars on standard (unleaded) for years before it was used for anything here, except to mix 2-stroke for lawnmowers and chainsaws. It's just that everything in Australia was complied as leaded because it COULD run leaded - because leaded pumps were everywhere, but far fewer standard ones. So by the time unleaded became the more common pump/fuel, they didn't bother going back and correcting the old records to show some older cars were designed for unleaded all along - so it now became a fault to run leaded - not a benefit. (Petrol stations in the 70s around here only had ONE standard pump - and sometimes that was off to the side, away from the leaded ones.) I remember my parents filling the car up, then moving the car to the side so people didn't get agitated, while they walked over to the solitary standard pump to fill the mower tin. I ran our '78 on unleaded for about a decade. Still couldn't tell 'em, so gave up trying. "You can't run that on unleaded mate." "Oh, ok..." Then just shrug and keep filling the tank.
seggle02
Today filled it to the brim (literally) with 98, took it to Orange for a club run. Even though the needle was bang smack in the middle of the Orange zone at bottom of gauge, only got in 47L (is a 60L tank). Was pinging a bit. May have advanced timing a bit too much. But until I get a better timing belt cover where the timing marks are intact, not that much I can do. But it seems to be using a LOT less fuel. Got 220km so far out of about 1/3 of a tank!
seggle02
Well got the wheels balanced thinking that may cure my front end vibration.It helped, but it still here. Car has driven 700km since the restoration, so I think the tyres are permanently buggered. Had a similar thing happen on the Commodore.
Re-checked my sizing, I need 175 R14 according to handbook, which equates to 175/80 R14 in our sizing. JAX have Maxxis in 185/75 R14 (similar rolling radius, and have 185/75 R14 on it already) for $92/tyre. When I get paid next might replace the fronts....
egads (she/her)
Saw it out at Classic Yass this morning Richard, looking good!
