lasercowboy
how come it's for sale?
[EDIT] scratch that! just saw t'other thread. good luck with the sale! I'm very jealous of the paintwork...
seggle02
Well its no longer for sale, hope to have many happy times with the Volvo in years to come :)
A question. I got the ball joints and fitted them. The ones I pulled off were the straight type. The ones I put on were the offset type. Which would have been correct ones to get?
familyman
Offset ones are for cars with power steering. (Two are required that are mirror-reverse of each other.) Straight ones are for non-power steering (only one part # - same balljoint both sides).
Vee_Que
They add a bit of caster for the steering, good for tracking iirc.
jamesinc
I've driven manual rack with the offset kind. It's not too bad, though it does make the wheel a lot heavier. I prefer using the straight kind with manual racks.
seggle02
Ok thanks for that.
With new, balanced tyres and new balljoints, I still have some vibration through the wheel at highway speed, and some steering wheel shudder. Its at a level I can live with, given the car is 418,000km old. But I know it could probably be better. What else could I look at? Guy at tyre place suggested tie rod ends and wheel bearings.
The VB Commodore sold just now on eBay, so the Volvo is now my main classic car. In the next phase in my life I am not anticipating much classic car club involvement, so I will be putting Volvo onto full rego.
egads (she/her)
Sway bar links maybe too? Tie rod ends and redoing the bearings is worth doing anyway.
Anthony
To fix your problem it seems like you're steering rack needs an overhaul around $550.
To check tie rods, lie on the ground and place your arm around the rod, have an assist rock the steering. You will sense any play and then determine which end in or out is the culprit.
I'll guess inner.
volvodriverman
Or a bent wheel?
seggle02
found a potential culprit - locknut on the LH tie rod end was loose
fixed it, drove it, has helped, still a bit of vibration. everything else with steering gear was pretty tight.
I'm thinking wheel bearings. I jack car up, spin wheel, is it supposed to be silent?
Major Ledfoot
seggle02;64636 wrote
I'm thinking wheel bearings. I jack car up, spin wheel, is it supposed to be silent?
Virtually silent. The wheels should turn easily without excessive effort, and should not feel sloppy on the hub.
What sort of condition are the bushes in your lower control arms? You mentioned earlier that the car pulled to the kerbside (down the camber of the road) under heavy braking - is this still the case?
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familyman
Wouldn't he still hear the brake pads against the disc?
Major Ledfoot
familyman;64639 wroteWouldn't he still hear the brake pads against the disc?
Hence
virtually silent. :)
Anthony
Wheel bearings condition - one indicator - if you rotate the wheel very slowly and it feels slightly notchy bearings are worn/indented.
Given the very high kms and the low price of parts (heaps of greasy labour involved but) chances are there very worn if no record of previous change.
seggle02
Wheel bearings on order.
Car placed on full rego today.
seggle02
Belts are squealy despite my tightening them
going to apply belt dressing tomorrow....
seggle02
I'm looking at putting a personal plate on Volvo.
CG-03-EI doesn't exactly roll off the tongue.
I could revive SRE-383 (initials and birthdate)
SWE-244 is available, as is VLV240, 81VOLV....
I could go with a 1988 combination to go with the 1989 rego sticker it might be getting.....
familyman
I had a personalised plate picked out and then the RTA started charging every year for them instead of a one off fee. Got so disgusted I dropped the whole idea and they got none of my money.
seggle02
Well, wheel bearings were replaced by mechanic...I'm in the middle of moving at the moment.
Highway vibration still there.
Took the car to a front end specialist see if they could shed some light on it...took a good look under the car, the only bushes that were bad was the phanard link, the front they thought was pretty tight.
The shudder wasn't there before the restoration, but is there now.
Now......I did replace a PS hose during restoration, which meant draining and bleeding the system. Apparently systems that aren't fully bled properly can cause this symptom. Also the drivebelt is slipping due to a collapsed bushing on the power steering mount that causes the pump/pulley to tilt forward, creating pulley misalignment. Could these be worth looking at?
egads (she/her)
Worth doing anyway as it will kill your belts and give you random slips that suck. No help on knowing if they could do this though.