If you hark back to
this post from February 2016, the oil drain hose I used was a Raceworks 400 series oil hose inside an insulating sleeve. After two years that hose is cactus. It has hardened and when I compressed it, it just started cracking.
I am upgrading to
Parker Hannifin 836 oil hose, which is rated up to 150°C, compared to the Raceworks' 100°C.
So my advice is not to use the Raceworks 400 series for your oil drain, as it won't hold up over time.
On the other hand, the coolant hose I'm using is a 5/16 Speedflow hose, also with heat shield, and that hose has stood up beautifully, it is still good and flexible (though the heat shield has started splitting).
And for anyone reading this thread while thinking about their first turbo conversion, take my advice, the hoses you select to carry oil to and from the turbo (and coolant) are very important. They experience huge hot-cold cycles. The oil feed hose in particular can potentially experience line pressures up to 80psi (worst-case) and 45psi (usual). I use a braided line for the oil supply.
And a note on costs - I'm not terribly budget-driven, I don't mind spending a bit more for a result which I like, but you need to be aware of costs that aren't obvious when you first do a turbo conversion. Take the oil drain line, for instance. The first time I did it, I used Speedflow braided lines:
- Yoshifab -10AN block fitting: $50
- Speedflow -10AN braided oil hose (1m): $50
- TD04 to -10AN oil drain flange: $35
- 2 x Speedflow 45-degree -10AN fittings: $115
So that's $250 to make a single hose. Ouch! That might give you some insight into why so many people bodge a hardline onto the block rather than "doing it right".
