Nina's 1981 244 GL - "Billie"

perko

Neat, looks simple enough

jamesinc

Well it's Thursday night and the oil cooler fittings and pod filter didn't get here in time. Disappoint. I'm going to start the swap on Saturday and hopefully the missing bits will turn up on Tuesday. I can bypass the cooler to test everything if need be.

Edit: for posterity, the oil cooler fittings are 1/2" BSPP thread.

jamesinc

@perko routing those oil cooler hoses is a bitch, but it is doable. You just need to be careful about clearance around the steering column.

jamesinc

General update, end of day 4.

Day 1 was a straight-forward teardown, but was lazy in pace and we got distracted with BBQ and beer. Day 2 we got the engine out, and then ran into trouble mating the AW71 to the new engine. The overdrive gearset wasn't seated properly, though we had to bend a flex plate to find that out. @Philia_Bear had a spare flex plate so on day 3 I went around there, got it, and last night I installed the engine finally. Today I've been working out the fine points of oil cooler lines, wiring, etc. Tomorrow I expect I'll be done with the engine bay and move on to the interior side of the wiring.

jamesinc

Daaaaaay 5. Made an intake.

What else. Got the downpipe fitted. Messed around with hoses, started cleaning up the wiring. Moved the e-fan relays to the side of the engine bay (next to the pod). Need to hit up JayCar tomorrow and get some wire to extend the circuit. Also got some heat shield for the lines from the master cylinder.

I also fixed up the new cluster, it was missing its trip reset switch, so I put a new one in. I also made the missing 3-pin speedo plug by taking a spare 8-pin plug and just cutting it down with the angle grinder. I otherwise procrastinated about doing the interior wiring, as I need to get into the car, and to do that I really need to roll it out of the garage. I don't wanna do that because I haven't finished pinning the oil cooler lines so they don't get given the good news by the steering column knuckle every time you make a turn.

I cranked the motor today to confirm oil pressure, and nothing leaked, so 1 of 4 fluid systems confirmed not leaking. Power steering hasn't leaked either but can't call that one until I drive it around.

I had to butcher a 740T lower rad hose to put in the e-fan thermoswitch and adapter. I don't like the end result and am going to look at a custom hose solution with a proper T for the turbo coolant line.

I will have a solid crack at getting it running tomorrow.

pauljloz

I understand - but am now past procrastination re updating the wiringnow after doing the engine harness on the '82.

I noted insulation rot in the lighting loom near the brake booster and central locking harness in the doors!!

jamesinc

Well I've got the main bits wired up now, and am trying to get it to run. Fuel pumps prime, pressure in the rail is okay, but no spark and no injectors. The CPS is new, and I pulled it out to check it didn't get squashed while the engine was being installed, and it seems fine. Checked my earths, they seem fine too. Coil has power.

So that leaves either a faulty ECU or some wiring issue. I did test all the wiring before I installed the harness, as I made some modifications to clean up the injector wiring, and everything was okay. I have a spare NA ECU which should at least start the engine, if the ECU is faulty.

Philia_Bear

I've got a running 940 and 2 240 we can test you ecu/icu in to confirm
Also can test your cps in same cars as well

jamesinc

Okay not the ECU or EZK. So CPS or wiring.

nickm

Move up stream to the power stage.
Are you getting injector pulse? Did you use the resistor pack or normal injectors?

Do you have a logic probe?

nickm

Do you know what you are looking for when probing the ecu ezk?

240Joe

I've had a dead ignition computer before which was similar to a dead CPS, that could be a possibility.

jamesinc

@Philia_Bear is smart bear. He suggested perhaps the ECU was losing power during crank, which turned out to be the case. I had it pinned onto what I thought was constant, but what was actually constant-except-when-you're-starting-the-car. So now I've got constant coming from the terminal block in the engine bay up to the computers. It starts and idles, albeit pretty rough, although that may be to be expected given the crazy camshaft it's running.

nickm

Cool simple fix

jamesinc

I'm just putting in permanent wiring at the moment. Got the coil sorted, I think, and tacho, I THINK, by pinning them onto the plug that used to go to/from K-Jet's computer. The blue wire on that plug has switched power (including during cranking), which suggests it's the one I want, and the other wire I hope is for the tacho.

I don't have reds on the cluster at the moment which is strange. The wiring seems to be all there - red wire from the alternator through the firewall plug has continuity. Indicators, high beam, etc, all work.

jamesinc

Alternator isn't wired correctly or isn't working, it's just running on battery power. I might swap it for the alternator from the old motor, they're the same and the other one is known to work.

Slowbrick

Do the pumps prime and stop or do they just keep running?

jamesinc

@Slowbrick they were stopping... We got it running now though! Just a case of power cutting while cranking.

Slowbrick

Ah yeh I avoided that problem by changing to a 90+ ignition switch. You can also change the pins in the existing switch.

jamesinc

Change the pins you say. Would that just be so that pin 30 still has power when cranking? I currently get switched power from the coil circuit, as the coil wiring is already setup the right way.

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