Nina's 1981 244 GL - "Billie"

Ex850R

jamesinc

Fun night.

Philia_Bear

Mmmm aw guts

jamesinc

Finished doing the accumulator mod, and front and rear seals and o-rings and ext housing bushing, and replaced the kickdown cable. Just need to give the case a good scrub now that it's all sealed up again.

jamesinc

I'm calling it. This is the best valve cover I've done yet.

egads (she/her)

Bloody hell! You are getting really good at valve covers!

Major Ledfoot

You're going to have to patent that valve cover design.

Nice going with the accumulator mod. Any tips or tricks for new players?

jamesinc

It was pretty straight forward. You'll need to replace the filter gaskets when you do it. The way to lift the valve body out is remove the filter, then unscrew all the big bolts and leave all the small bolts, and lift it up and set it aside. You'll also need to disconnect the kickdown cable, which is attached in the valve body similar to how it is attached to the throttle body.

jamesinc

To jam the pistons, I took one of the springs to bunnings and got a length of thread (they sell various imperial threads in really long lengths in steel or brass, I went with steel) that would fit, then just cut it to size with the grinder and removed any sharp bits with a flap disc. I wasn't very scientific, I just marked the thread with a marker pen and cut it up. In the end each rod was a couple mm shorter than the spring when fully extended, so with the pistons reseated they had a tiny bit of movement. Figured that was safer than trying to get the length perfect and having the thread expand when hot or something.

Vee_Que

I personally just cut bolts to size. No need to complucate it. And you make them a bit shorter than when the pistons are in the box. Not the spring length. If they are too short they don't really work in my experience.

Philia_Bear

Anything that shortens the pistons stroke helps

jamesinc

The pistons have virtually no movement now. Like 1 or 2mm.

Vee_Que

Good. Just to say its the length of the springs isn't necessarily right for some variations.

Philia_Bear

This happened last night with a reciprocating saw

jamesinc

Initially I am going to use an HKS 2.5" mushroom air filter, as it's fairly small and I'll just be #yolo'ing the intake plumbing while I work out what bends I actually need and so on.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HKS-Super-Air-Performance-Pod-Filter-2-5-63mm-/111901995753?hash=item1a0de0f2e9:g:AHIAAOSwezVWvHBz

Ex850R

If you need silicon and ally tubes I had good result with Worley , I put em in the suppliers section. Close to me if you need and they knock off a little for pickup.

jamesinc

@Ex850R cheers Les. The plan is to use the 740 turbo hose from the turbo to the AMM, then put the filter on the other end of the AMM. Once I have a better idea of how it'll all lay out, I'll work out a shopping list.

jamesinc

So some M16x1.5 to -8AN fittings turned up yesterday, to go into the sandwich plate for the oil cooler.

The M16 side was too long for the sandwich plate, so I trimmed it down until I could fully thread it into the sandwich plate and seal it with a crush washer.

Aaand fixed!

perko

Is there much clearance on the engine mount like that? Trying to sort out my cooler but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room round the sandwich plate to run the lines, especially with the alt in front.

jamesinc

@perko there is adequate clearance. I'll get some pics over the weekend. Otherwise you can see here what the relative positioning is:

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