WTB B230 from 1992+ (NSW Only)

james717717

I can't do my current engine rn cause Im planning on doing a twin cam + T build which the block of 1985 cannot absolutely do since they would just explode.

a set of H rods and it would be fine

james717717

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/203742#Comment_203742

Its not about the internal parts since yoshifab + local volvo shop has upgraded internal parts but rather the block itself not being rpm happy I can't afford to explode on me. Thats why im going for a 1990+ B230. Also my goal is too have atleast 500 bhp hence why my current engine is a problem.

I don't know enough about our motors to disagree, I've never heard of any issues with the blocks themselves I only ever hear of issues regarding skinny rods and main bearing placement in early motors.

500hp is an average build for some of the crazy swedes

james717717

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/203745#Comment_203745

Yeah the 1985 motors aren't that rpm happy much causes much friction and then boom! The stress kills it eventually

ah good to know ill be building a motors soon, nothing as crazy though but 400hp is the goal

james717717

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/203747#Comment_203747

Yeah a one after 1990 is good but after 1993 is excellent as they have oil squirters

yeah I have a squirter block from 95 940T in my 240 turbo

The 1985 engine block you have which would be a B230E engine is actually identical to the later B230F.

There should be no problem using it for your project, after you change the conrods of course

pigdog

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/203748#Comment_203748

yeah I have a squirter block from 95 940T in my 240 turbo

This would be my preference too.

There is zero difference between the bottom ends of all those engines you listed. Same block and rotating parts

All you'll need to do with the block is drill the hole for the turbo oil return line

What is your cars engine number it is stamped under the head on the left side right by the distributor

If it's a 1984, B23E

1985 B230E

1986 B230F

The only way the engine block will break is if you snap a conrod. You really should read the engine number though because who knows if the engine is the original or if it has ever been replaced?

They were all low friction design by that time, it's a good thing

B230ET engines in OZ were the weak versions, with 9mm rods and 55mm main bearings with centre thrust. They were sold in OZ market cars during 1984-5 and ran on super-grade (leaded) petrol.

With ULP came the B230FT in 1986; in year model 1988, the B230 went to the K-block in (63mm mains, rear thrust bearing, and 13mm rods, except for "a few engines" having 9mm rods, according to the parts book).

For year model 1990, the turbo manifold was revised and improved.

For year model 1991, the B230 transitioned to the L-block, which was designed for oil squirters, and some engines were pre-drilled for them, but not fitted.

For year model 1993 and onwards, the B230 got a round-tooth timing belt and oil squirters were often fitted to NA engines, and fitted to all turbo engines.

Power level ratings changed due to changes in camshaft profile, turbocharger, the 90+ manifold, and the type of injection system fitted (e.g Motronic, LH2.2, LH2.4). ET engines were meant to run on super-grade leaded petrol; early FT engines with cats for ULP ran less boost and thus didn't make the same power as ET engines. By the time GT engines superseded ET engines in markets were super was still sold, FT and GT power levels were the same (i.e. LH 2.4 turbos). The 1994+ FK (so-called 'comfort') engines were FT engines set by the factory for less boost; they are otherwise electronically and mechanically identical to FT engines.

It's worth knowing this background since the OZ-market B230ET is the least desirable and least durable of the factory turbo engines.

If your budget is $1K for engine purchase only, you should find a tired unit for a lot less than that. But a weak, tired, 35+ year old engine will need rebuilding if you intend to tune it, and you will need more than $1K in parts, plus some machining, to do it properly. I cannot see the point in building up a B230ET unless it was original equipment and you're preparing the car for concors shows, where originality = points.

Since you've mentioned tuning. you're better off starting with a 93+ NA L-block engine, as late model as possible, and building an engine up from that. The only difference between NA blocks and turbo engine blocks are the holes drilled for the turbo's oil feed and drain. NA 93+ L-blocks blocks make a better basis for a strong engine these days because they've had a lot of heat cycles, and on average the bores are in better shape because the oil squirters have kept the NA engine understressed.

The NA and turbo LH2.4 inlet manifolds are the same, except where a valve husher is used as a washer on the butterfly spindle. NA and turbo injectors are different, but most people change them anyway to 850 types on a turbo build. The NA and +t fuel rails are identical, however the 92+ rail has a valve for checking fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulators are different from NA to +t. The 530 heads are the same for NA and +t, except the +t engines have sodium-filled exhaust valves (a dimple on the top of the valve stem). That said, NA valves work fine in a +t application.

YMMV, but I wouldn't use NA pistons in a turbo engine for the same reason I wouldn't walk onto a building site wearing sandals.

No worries