cause the main issue was the thrust bearing positioned awkwardly on the crankshaft compared to its future models and was a low friction engine.
WTB B230 from 1992+ (NSW Only)
The only way the engine block will break is if you snap a conrod. You really should read the engine number though because who knows if the engine is the original or if it has ever been replaced?
They were all low friction design by that time, it's a good thing
B230ET engines in OZ were the weak versions, with 9mm rods and 55mm main bearings with centre thrust. They were sold in OZ market cars during 1984-5 and ran on super-grade (leaded) petrol.
With ULP came the B230FT in 1986; in year model 1988, the B230 went to the K-block in (63mm mains, rear thrust bearing, and 13mm rods, except for "a few engines" having 9mm rods, according to the parts book).
For year model 1990, the turbo manifold was revised and improved.
For year model 1991, the B230 transitioned to the L-block, which was designed for oil squirters, and some engines were pre-drilled for them, but not fitted.
For year model 1993 and onwards, the B230 got a round-tooth timing belt and oil squirters were often fitted to NA engines, and fitted to all turbo engines.
Power level ratings changed due to changes in camshaft profile, turbocharger, the 90+ manifold, and the type of injection system fitted (e.g Motronic, LH2.2, LH2.4). ET engines were meant to run on super-grade leaded petrol; early FT engines with cats for ULP ran less boost and thus didn't make the same power as ET engines. By the time GT engines superseded ET engines in markets were super was still sold, FT and GT power levels were the same (i.e. LH 2.4 turbos). The 1994+ FK (so-called 'comfort') engines were FT engines set by the factory for less boost; they are otherwise electronically and mechanically identical to FT engines.
It's worth knowing this background since the OZ-market B230ET is the least desirable and least durable of the factory turbo engines.
If your budget is $1K for engine purchase only, you should find a tired unit for a lot less than that. But a weak, tired, 35+ year old engine will need rebuilding if you intend to tune it, and you will need more than $1K in parts, plus some machining, to do it properly. I cannot see the point in building up a B230ET unless it was original equipment and you're preparing the car for concors shows, where originality = points.
Since you've mentioned tuning. you're better off starting with a 93+ NA L-block engine, as late model as possible, and building an engine up from that. The only difference between NA blocks and turbo engine blocks are the holes drilled for the turbo's oil feed and drain. NA 93+ L-blocks blocks make a better basis for a strong engine these days because they've had a lot of heat cycles, and on average the bores are in better shape because the oil squirters have kept the NA engine understressed.
The NA and turbo LH2.4 inlet manifolds are the same, except where a valve husher is used as a washer on the butterfly spindle. NA and turbo injectors are different, but most people change them anyway to 850 types on a turbo build. The NA and +t fuel rails are identical, however the 92+ rail has a valve for checking fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulators are different from NA to +t. The 530 heads are the same for NA and +t, except the +t engines have sodium-filled exhaust valves (a dimple on the top of the valve stem). That said, NA valves work fine in a +t application.
YMMV, but I wouldn't use NA pistons in a turbo engine for the same reason I wouldn't walk onto a building site wearing sandals.
ramrodThe only way the engine block will break is if you snap a conrod. You really should read the engine number though because who knows if the engine is the original or if it has ever been replaced?
They were all low friction design by that time, it's a good thing
Ill check the engine code upon the modification but is it fine if I keep close contact with you since you know alot more about the volvo then I do?
No worries
Major LedfootB230ET engines in OZ were the weak versions, with 9mm rods and 55mm main bearings with centre thrust. They were sold in OZ market cars during 1984-5 and ran on super-grade (leaded) petrol.
With ULP came the B230FT in 1986; in year model 1988, the B230 went to the K-block in (63mm mains, rear thrust bearing, and 13mm rods, except for "a few engines" having 9mm rods, according to the parts book).
For year model 1990, the turbo manifold was revised and improved.
For year model 1991, the B230 transitioned to the L-block, which was designed for oil squirters, and some engines were pre-drilled for them, but not fitted.
For year model 1993 and onwards, the B230 got a round-tooth timing belt and oil squirters were often fitted to NA engines, and fitted to all turbo engines.
Power level ratings changed due to changes in camshaft profile, turbocharger, the 90+ manifold, and the type of injection system fitted (e.g Motronic, LH2.2, LH2.4). ET engines were meant to run on super-grade leaded petrol; early FT engines with cats for ULP ran less boost and thus didn't make the same power as ET engines. By the time GT engines superseded ET engines in markets were super was still sold, FT and GT power levels were the same (i.e. LH 2.4 turbos). The 1994+ FK (so-called 'comfort') engines were FT engines set by the factory for less boost; they are otherwise electronically and mechanically identical to FT engines.
It's worth knowing this background since the OZ-market B230ET is the least desirable and least durable of the factory turbo engines.
If your budget is $1K for engine purchase only, you should find a tired unit for a lot less than that. But a weak, tired, 35+ year old engine will need rebuilding if you intend to tune it, and you will need more than $1K in parts, plus some machining, to do it properly. I cannot see the point in building up a B230ET unless it was original equipment and you're preparing the car for concors shows, where originality = points.
Since you've mentioned tuning. you're better off starting with a 93+ NA L-block engine, as late model as possible, and building an engine up from that. The only difference between NA blocks and turbo engine blocks are the holes drilled for the turbo's oil feed and drain. NA 93+ L-blocks blocks make a better basis for a strong engine these days because they've had a lot of heat cycles, and on average the bores are in better shape because the oil squirters have kept the NA engine understressed.
The NA and turbo LH2.4 inlet manifolds are the same, except where a valve husher is used as a washer on the butterfly spindle. NA and turbo injectors are different, but most people change them anyway to 850 types on a turbo build. The NA and +t fuel rails are identical, however the 92+ rail has a valve for checking fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulators are different from NA to +t. The 530 heads are the same for NA and +t, except the +t engines have sodium-filled exhaust valves (a dimple on the top of the valve stem). That said, NA valves work fine in a +t application.
YMMV, but I wouldn't use NA pistons in a turbo engine for the same reason I wouldn't walk onto a building site wearing sandals.
Thank you for this information I will keep this in mind. Do you know where to find the NA B230 that you've mentioned? cause I was also rec those engines from the 1993+ years but as far as I know the junkyard and online hasn't been lucky.
All the centre thrust blocks were from 85-89 models IIRC, but for 500hp my advice is to be picky and not accept anything other than a 92+ squirter block like a B230FX or FB.
jamesincAll the centre thrust blocks were from 85-89 models IIRC, but for 500hp my advice is to be picky and not accept anything other than a 92+ squirter block like a B230FX or FB.
Yeah I def thought so but the problem is waiting for one to come up. I think at this point idm a donor car but I just don't wanna do a engine swap with a bmw , ford barra etc since I wanna keep it original. So I think my best option is continue to advertise like this or just wait.
- Edited
jamesincAll the centre thrust blocks were from 85-89 models IIRC, but for 500hp my advice is to be picky and not accept anything other than a 92+ squirter block like a B230FX or FB.
Centre thrust and 55mm mains were actually over and done with, when the K block came along in YM88.
9mm rods however made their way into a few early K-blocks.
Yep; B230FB or FX will work.
OP asks:
Do you know where to find the NA B230 that you've mentioned?
QLD or northern NSW... geez... um... Try Peer at GLT Car Centre, he may have one / know where one can be found.
There was a wrecker in either Coffs or near that way who had Volvo stuff too, IIRC.
You want an engine from a 93 or later 940.
What motor do you have currently that would be getting replaced by the squirter block?
jamesincWhat motor do you have currently that would be getting replaced by the squirter block?
A 1985 B230E I believe. so It won't do any good
Major LedfootB230ET engines in OZ were the weak versions, with 9mm rods and 55mm main bearings with centre thrust. They were sold in OZ market cars during 1984-5 and ran on super-grade (leaded) petrol.
With ULP came the B230FT in 1986; in year model 1988, the B230 went to the K-block in (63mm mains, rear thrust bearing, and 13mm rods, except for "a few engines" having 9mm rods, according to the parts book).
For year model 1990, the turbo manifold was revised and improved.
For year model 1991, the B230 transitioned to the L-block, which was designed for oil squirters, and some engines were pre-drilled for them, but not fitted.
For year model 1993 and onwards, the B230 got a round-tooth timing belt and oil squirters were often fitted to NA engines, and fitted to all turbo engines.
Power level ratings changed due to changes in camshaft profile, turbocharger, the 90+ manifold, and the type of injection system fitted (e.g Motronic, LH2.2, LH2.4). ET engines were meant to run on super-grade leaded petrol; early FT engines with cats for ULP ran less boost and thus didn't make the same power as ET engines. By the time GT engines superseded ET engines in markets were super was still sold, FT and GT power levels were the same (i.e. LH 2.4 turbos). The 1994+ FK (so-called 'comfort') engines were FT engines set by the factory for less boost; they are otherwise electronically and mechanically identical to FT engines.
It's worth knowing this background since the OZ-market B230ET is the least desirable and least durable of the factory turbo engines.
If your budget is $1K for engine purchase only, you should find a tired unit for a lot less than that. But a weak, tired, 35+ year old engine will need rebuilding if you intend to tune it, and you will need more than $1K in parts, plus some machining, to do it properly. I cannot see the point in building up a B230ET unless it was original equipment and you're preparing the car for concors shows, where originality = points.
Since you've mentioned tuning. you're better off starting with a 93+ NA L-block engine, as late model as possible, and building an engine up from that. The only difference between NA blocks and turbo engine blocks are the holes drilled for the turbo's oil feed and drain. NA 93+ L-blocks blocks make a better basis for a strong engine these days because they've had a lot of heat cycles, and on average the bores are in better shape because the oil squirters have kept the NA engine understressed.
The NA and turbo LH2.4 inlet manifolds are the same, except where a valve husher is used as a washer on the butterfly spindle. NA and turbo injectors are different, but most people change them anyway to 850 types on a turbo build. The NA and +t fuel rails are identical, however the 92+ rail has a valve for checking fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulators are different from NA to +t. The 530 heads are the same for NA and +t, except the +t engines have sodium-filled exhaust valves (a dimple on the top of the valve stem). That said, NA valves work fine in a +t application.
YMMV, but I wouldn't use NA pistons in a turbo engine for the same reason I wouldn't walk onto a building site wearing sandals.
I got myself a 1991 B230 NA will this be sufficient to start the project?
I got myself a 1991 B230 NA will this be sufficient to start the project?
I guess it should do.
Is there a "K" cast into the block on the inlet side, near the knock sensor hole? If so, that's a K block.
Do you have photos of it? Especially on the oil filter side?
Major LedfootI got myself a 1991 B230 NA will this be sufficient to start the project?
I guess it should do.
Is there a "K" cast into the block on the inlet side, near the knock sensor hole? If so, that's a K block.
Do you have photos of it? Especially on the oil filter side?
The person I am buying it from sent only 1 photo of it which is this.
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But he will send me more tmw morning
Major LedfootI got myself a 1991 B230 NA will this be sufficient to start the project?
I guess it should do.
Is there a "K" cast into the block on the inlet side, near the knock sensor hole? If so, that's a K block.
Do you have photos of it? Especially on the oil filter side?
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Abit grim on the photo qualities but im pretty sure thats an 88 block being in a 1991 volvo for some reason ??
Looks pretty much like a K-block engine. It will have 63mm mains and should have 13mm rods.
Example of a K-block: You can see the 'K' on it above the 2nd welsh plug, below the engine number ledge, and to the left of the knock sensor.
Major LedfootLooks pretty much like a K-block engine. It will have 63mm mains and should have 13mm rods.
Example of a K-block: You can see the 'K' on it above the 2nd welsh plug, below the engine number ledge, and to the left of the knock sensor.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/HB8Q0PU24BX9/20220212-183952.jpg
It didnt have K stamp and with the 88 badge on it, I doubt it was an L block anyways so I turned it down.
L-blocks look like this on the exhaust (RH) side.
(pic via stealthfi)
Note the 3-and -a-half bumps visible along the oil gallery channel (the half-bump is next to the oil pressure switch hole).
Note also how the block has been drilled for the turbo oil feed (directly under #3 welsh plug) and drain.
K-blocks look like this on the exhaust side - see, no bumps.
