does not matter too much leaning towards 93> turbo block
[NT] Engines (Darwin)
What car do you want to put the engine in?
Or what is wrong with the current engine in the car?
what year model is this car?
That info helps
so your GT has the original B23E 140hp engine with k-jet injection
you can swap with a b230f or b230ft but are you aware you’ll need to convert to LH 2.4 fuel system and wiring (or you could use aftermarket efi too)?
how much power would you like to make? Turbo or non turbo? Supercharging would work too
ramrodThat info helps
so your GT has the original B23E 140hp engine with k-jet injection
you can swap with a b230f or b230ft but are you aware you’ll need to convert to LH 2.4 fuel system and wiring (or you could use aftermarket efi too)?
how much power would you like to make? Turbo or non turbo? Supercharging would work too
yeah original b23e. want to go for a built engine and go for around 300 - 400 hp just trying to source a new engine
I think your best bet would be to get either a 90+ B230FT or a B230FX. The FX is generally considered to be the best redblock as it has rear thrust, 13mm rods and oil squirters. The FT already has a hole drilled for the oil return for a turbo, but doesn't have squirters and may or may not have 13mm rods.
When you say built, is your intention to blueprint the motor?
I haven't heard of anything up your way. There was a 740 Turbo for sale in Alice Springs a few months ago, that's as close as I've seen. Odds are you'll have to cough up for road freight.
jamesincI think your best bet would be to get either a 90+ B230FT or a B230FX. The FX is generally considered to be the best redblock as it has rear thrust, 13mm rods and oil squirters. The FT already has a hole drilled for the oil return for a turbo, but doesn't have squirters and may or may not have 13mm rods.
When you say built, is your intention to blueprint the motor?
I haven't heard of anything up your way. There was a 740 Turbo for sale in Alice Springs a few months ago, that's as close as I've seen. Odds are you'll have to cough up for road freight.
Fx sounds good I wanted 93> onward because of the oil squirters I be leave that's when they came out
And yeah blueprint the engine if nessasary but if stock turbo rotating Assembly is strong enough for 3/400 HP then save some money and go stock
with standard rotating assembly you’ll have no trouble with durability providing someone who knows what they’re doing tunes the AFR
Yeah I think the stock internals are famously capable up to 500bhp. The thing is though even a '95 redblock is 25 years old, odds are you'll need to do at least some machining to get back to spec.
If it were me I think I'd hunt down a squirter block, buy overbore FT pistons and have it bored out to match the new pistons, and drilled and tapped for a 3/4" NPT fitting.
Alternatively convert the B23 to turbo. 0.040" oversize B23FT pistons, new high volume oil pump, drill the return hole and you're all good. Plug the k-jet holes, bolt on a later inlet manifold (or make your own) and turbo exhaust, chuck on an aftermarket ecu and you're there.
The B23 has the luxury of no harmonic balancer, so you can easily bolt onto the front of the engine like this: http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=volvo-b21-b23-b200-b230-trigger-wheel-kit.
You will never break a B23 crankshaft and the B23 rods are rock solid.
RoinikAlternatively convert the B23 to turbo. 0.040" oversize B23FT pistons, new high volume oil pump, drill the return hole and you're all good. Plug the k-jet holes, bolt on a later inlet manifold (or make your own) and turbo exhaust, chuck on an aftermarket ecu and you're there.
The B23 has the luxury of no harmonic balancer, so you can easily bolt onto the front of the engine like this: http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=volvo-b21-b23-b200-b230-trigger-wheel-kit.
You will never break a B23 crankshaft and the B23 rods are rock solid.
Are they forged ?
My main concern is that because the engine has so many k's on it that the tolerances are all shot and if I want to make power this is not good for reliability
You don’t know how loose the tolerances are from outside
or if it is worn out like you claim
its easy for a machine shop to tell you once all components have been tested
B21 and B23 cranks are forged. Apparently B21 cranks are marginally better. B23 M rods are forged better (M might be later than 79, like 82-85 era), but the normal B21/B23 rods are forged strong enough for 300hp. Like ramrod says, you don't know by looking at the outside. Crazily, a 500k engine is likely to be better than my flogged out 285k B21 that was killed by a lot of cold starts.