beema41
I've fitted a new brake master cylinder and now have adequate brakes albeit a large and very scary vibration coming from the rear. I'm thinking discs are warped or similar.
However my main issue now is that I've started replacing heater and radiator hoses. Unfortunately during this process I found a small leak coming from the back of the water pump. On closer investigation it appears there is a short hose well under the intake body.
So it looks like I'll be removing the injection and intake (as per the manual) just to get to that short hose. I expect that if I'm going to do that I may as well replace the water pump too.
Also I replaced a few cracked and leaky vacuum pipes and now the engine idles very smoothly. I has a slight miss on acceleration but I expect that once I the chance to change the rotor, cap and leads/plugs that may disappear.
I've filled the tank with Premium unleaded with a bottle of cleaner in it and that appears to be working well.
The fuel gauge has stopped working and when I go to start the car, I turn the key to get the ignition lights, I cannot hear the main pump start up and stop (when at pressure) as per my other fuel injected cars. Could this be an issue?
Vee_Que
If it runs alright then the pump is working. Ot lives at the back near the diff compared to a 740. My 264 I never had pump issues except for the relay failing. And the tank level is seperate to the main pump too. Which turns on with cranking iirc.
That lead to the car not starting at all. You're doing lots of work on this thing! Water Pump you don't need to remove the manifold with the octopus style manifold really but it could make it easier. Changing the o rings for the intakes will be worth it too.
beema41
I've started researching the brake calipers too, however looks like I'll have to remove them to find out whether I have Girling or ATE. I hope I can get overhaul kits for them here in Oz! I see on Ebay that disc rotors are available and not badly priced.
Supercheap did me a deal on a full set or radiator and bypass hoses and a new gates waterpump for about $160 so it will be only labour now.
I started the engine today in icy cold 1 Degree temp and it kicked and run smoothly first go.
It's going to take a little bit of work to get it up to speed for Oz Volvo National in September but ultimately I would like to drive it up from Canberra and not have to be brought back home on the back of a trailer!
It's all fun, even if I skin the odd knuckle! :-)
Rob
You are certainly making good progress.
I would almost guarantee they are Girling calipers. Cant say I have seen ATE's on a 2 series car... may be wrong though..
beema41
Yes, I've looked up all the various production runs, the manual suggests mine should be Girling calipers. The vibration was very bad during my test run and when I stopped on a slight slope I could feel the brakes binding up, so I'll be replacing the disc rotors and refurbishing the calipers. I'm hoping that when I get the calipers off they will part with their pistons easily, the last batch I did (on my 164) required major surgery at a brake shop to remove the old pistons.
I'm also hoping that I can get Girling caliper kits here in Oz.
I've got to say that when the car drove, despite the binding brakes and other tuning issues (injector seals/plugs/leads etc) it went very well, I was surprised how quickly it got up and went and how smooth it drove. The gearbox was great and the handling was precise too.
The work I did the other day almost entirely related to the vacuum hoses and all the cooling hoses at the rear of the engine. If I can progress at the same pace for each job I should have the car ready by Sept 12th :-)
beema41
Well big day had today. I've removed the fuel injection from the engine, encountered a few problems, mainly with the electrical connectors, instead of just disconnecting some decided to crumble apart, so now looking at replacing them. The electrical protector tubing is rock hard and will be replaced by new coverings all round. Some of the terminals were dodgy and will be replaced too.
All the injectors had lots and lots of crud on them and the seals are rock hard (they're off to Dyno Tune to get Ultrasonically cleaned and new seals installed).
The water pump hoses and pipes are badly decayed and will be replaced. Intake manifold seals are rock hard as is the water pum pipe seals that go to the engine block. The rear cover of the water pump has a bad cavitation hole and I'm going to get that alloy welded and ground flat again.
Ripping off the tappet covers tomorrow to do the valve clearances and a compression test.
beema41
I should've added that I ordered the brake caliper kits today and not too soon. If I stop the car on the hill (steep one) at the front of my house, the car lurches to a complete stop with applying brakes or handbrake. The brakes are definitely sticking.
Rob
coming along... need some pictures to accompany your updates.
beema41
Yes, sorry there's no photos. The trouble is I get all worked up and carried away and then forget to take pics, plus the grubby hand issue with my camera. Will remember tomorrow to take a few before I get dirty again.
Vee_Que
Efihardware had bosch connectors if that may help you.
beema41
Thanks, I'll look them up. I had a couple of spares anyway but need a few more. My main issue now are the intake manifold o'rings plus the 2 for the y pipe where it connects to the block. The only website that has a listing is Skandix, reasonably cheap too.
I should add that the cavitation hole flange that goes onto the back part of the water is a worry. On closer inspection I can't tell if it is actually cavitation or a rock or some metal has been sitting there getting bashed by the impella.
I found a few more cracked vacuum hoses and breather pipes but I've got enough spares lengths now and a heap more hose clamps.
Vee_Que
Pictures will help!
beema41
Rob
good, good
beema41
I've got EUR133 worth of new seals and a metal coolant pipe coming from Skandix, hopefully next week. The brakes caliper kits arrived from DVS last Friday. I've run out of $$$ so will be keen on payday this week!
Vee_Que
Nice work. Looks like it needs a top end cleaner put through it when it's running. And to be revved out!
beema41
Not sure if I trust those things, have you used them much? What brand do you recommend? I was just going to get my wire wheel brush and cordless drill into cleaning up what I can and vacuuming the dust/carbon at the same time. It's an old engine so I'm not too keen on revving it out.
Ex850R
Keep the vacuum on while you brush at least , use a cleaner like INTER JECT sell , someone mentioed it , could just be a ethanol based one cos ethanol fuels clean upper cylinders like new....
Vee_Que
beema41;26446 wroteNot sure if I trust those things, have you used them much? What brand do you recommend? I was just going to get my wire wheel brush and cordless drill into cleaning up what I can and vacuuming the dust/carbon at the same time. It's an old engine so I'm not too keen on revving it out.
Gm upper cylinder cleaner,
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-1052626-Engine-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B000QII698
I've used it many times on cars that haven't been driven hard, Subaru also use a Japanese brand one for services on their cars. I personally just drive the car hard so it gets nice and hot. No need to do it every second service, seems a bit ridiulous to me!
beema41
New pipe arrived from Skandix Germany with new injector and intake seals. Exceptional delivery time frame considering I only ordered them early last week. This is contrary to my new thermostat and seal that I ordered from Sydney around the same time via Ebay. Still hasn't arrived.
