beema41
So the rain in Canberra stopped for 5 mins and I had a chance to give it a once (or twice) over;
Knowing the history of the PRV I inspected the cooling system first followed immediately by the oil level and condition.
The coolant was a little low and I topped it up, run it up to temperature, monitored it and all appeared ok. This morning the level hadn't dropped so I'm reasonably satisfied. Will be changing the coolant in the next fortnight, just unsure whether I should do two things; 1: use the tap coming out of the lower left side of the block & 2: use a flush/block cleaner ( will it disturb any build up or cause an internal leak?).
The oil was ok but not ideal, a little dirty but I have seen worse. I removed the two stone trays under the front and the sump appears to have small leaks, again nothing drastic. I will flush with two oil changes and a new filter this weekend.
At the back of the engine there are two distinct air/vacuum leaks. Inspection revealed two hoses either side of a y shaped brass pipe device that holds what I think is the cold start injector. A feel around them quickly identified both cracked badly and leaking air. I removed them and run some electrical tape to temporarily fix the leaks and the engine runs quite smoothly.
Finally, on that, the engine is very quiet and has no knocks, rattles or any hint of metal wear issues in the top or bottom end. Climbing under the front with it running was impressive, no drips or obvious signs of neglect.
Now where's a big block of wood to touch, after making a statement like that!
Rob
Have you sorted out how to post pictures yet?
beema41
I posted some pictures some months ago now and i know its got something to do with the BBC code. Unfortunately I have forgotten the process.
Rob
Vee_Que
Make sure you use 10w-40 oil with the z89a filter as thicker oil can cause issues. A flush may move the gunk on the head gasket as the wet sleeves have a lot of coolant around them and if it's had not enough anti freeze/corrosion protection. It probably won't have an issue though with a flush. Needs to have the block drained out the bungs yes.
egads (she/her)
Do z9's fit on these clearance wise? Cheaper generally and more filter area.
Vee_Que
No. They really don't. Its $5 more for a z89a and the engines need changes often. Every 5000km or 6 months so the size isn't an issue on it.
egads (she/her)
Ah, ok. Filters and oil changes are way cheaper than rebuilds.
beema41
Spent most of yesterday on servicing duty. Changed the engine oil twice (20 minute engine run to temperature between) and fitted a z89a filter. Oil installed is Shell Helix HX7 10w40. Super-cheap had on special for $25 for 5L. Coolant dumped, flushed with clean water, filled with weak mixture of coolant, run up to temperature, dumped again, filled with 5 year coolant at 50/50 with demineralised water.
Finally, having no brake pedal, I filled the master reservoir in an attempt to get some pedal but watch as the entire content flowed out the rear of the cylinder, down the booster and onto the floor. Will be ordering a new master as I expect reconditioning will be a waste considering its condition. Never seen brake fluid run out like that before.
beema41
Oh I did find a few vacuum/breather hoses cracked, in particular the two pipes going from the cold start injector to the intake manifolds.
Plus I slightly touched a fuel injector and noted it leaked vacuum and started running rough, so a new set of seals will be called for.
Finally the oil filler is very loose in the rocker cover and I suspect the large o'ring.
Any advice about where I can get injector seals, vacuum hose and large o'ring?
OldnDecrepit
I source some of my parts from FCP Groton in the USA, much much cheaper. But it takes 4/5 days to get here and the cost of freight is such that you need to make up a decent order.
I'm about to make one if you know exactly what you want from the site.
Vee_Que
I know they seem to be advertised for injector seals with normal efi type ones. Injectronics do them. The oil fillers are now all old and loose and ready to break off without much warning. Vacuum hose. Just at repco or bursons.
Angus could probably rebuild your master Cylinder with a new sleeve. Sounds like the seals have failed that's all.
beema41
New cylinder ordered from auto pro and at trade price makes it less than $120, so very happy with that will check out the Groton website and let you know. I thought buying out of the US was cheap for parts but the freight killed that advantage?
Do they have a good selection of 1977 264 parts?
Where are injectronics? Google?
beema41
With regards to the oil filler, I will attempt to pop off the o'ring another time when perhaps I have the dimensions or another seal to replace it. I suppose I'm thinking that the crankcase needs to be closed/sealed for the whole system to operate correctly?
beema41
I need a new rear muffler, so I get some quotes from local suppliers, cheapest is $189. I found one on a US eBay site at $44! But to ship was $60. I know I'd still be saving $$$ but would really like to see what I'm getting before I parted with cash. I wonder how much fc Groton charge for shipping such an item, considering the obvious weight & size issues?
OldnDecrepit
I generally don't order heavy parts like mufflers. The largest parts I've ordered was a stone shield for under the front but it while large was plastic. Haven't tried to order any 244 parts as I only have a 740 and a 960 (now).
My current order includes radiator hoses (at $15 I'm ordering an extra one as a spare), a 960 manual on CD and some bushes.
Here's a link to the cooling system parts for your 264 on FCP Groton for price comparisons:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/264/Cooling-System/?year=1977&m=4&e=894
Vee_Que
Google injectronics for suppliers. They are trade only.
Go to an exhaust shop and get a quote for a generic muffler. Maybe one smaller even. They sound good with a smaller exhaust.
beema41
Thanks for those links. What's the go with the different thermostats? 87 degree and other temperature ranges, what's normal for oz?
Vee_Que
I always go lowest temp to save the motor if the cooling fan fails etc
beema41
Vee_Que;24724 wroteGoogle injectronics for suppliers. They are trade only.
Go to an exhaust shop and get a quote for a generic muffler. Maybe one smaller even. They sound good with a smaller exhaust.
The quote I got was from local exhaust shop, he had one stock, he stated it was old stock thus the old 'cheap' price. I baulked at the price for two reasons, one is the age of the muffler, it had a bit of surface rust, and second was the price compared to online from the US. The only advantage was the thing was in stock locally.
I am finding it hard to locate 14mm I/d vacuum/breather pipe? I'm thinking of buying a 240 breather hose and cutting it into sections. The only trouble is finding one of those to measure. The gates online catalog gives an inside dimension of 14mm but I'd like to be sure.
