Will's 98 V70R Build

Drwillis · 2020-07-18T17:26:58+00:00

Welcome! For someone who couldn't change oil a few years ago it sounds like you've done some great work. Always good to see an R being revived.

Jamest5r_

You can buy solid bushing mate I have them in mine.

Drwillis

Jamest5r_
You can buy solid bushing mate I have them in mine.

Cool I'll look into them or the delrin ones. Do you remember who makes them?

Ex850R
There is no rear mount on the AWD frame, it has a side gearbox one .
It's better not having the steering rack as a mount......

Sorry I mean the rhd passenger side, rear of engine /gearbox one (looks like a cross). I understand that the steering rack in the awds are basically the same but the hydraulic mount part cut off.

More just curious with the c70 subframe. I know that the bracing would probably be in the way

Ex850R

There is no rear mount on the AWD frame, it has a side gearbox one .

It's better not having the steering rack as a mount......

Ex850R

It's a good strong part without bracing , if you wanted you could bolt on some tube to try it.

Best upgrade is decent strut brace.

AshDVS

So, the C70 convertible has solid aluminium mounts which you could use.

Alternatively, you can drop me an email and I can help with Delrin replacements. Dont use the urethane inserts into rubber mounts though.

Jamest5r_

@Drwillis are you on fb?, if not I can give you the phone details of the 2 people that make them in the UK.

Jamest5r_

Drwillis

Awesome I'll check out his Facebook again. I saw his page when I was comparing m4.4 mapping between him and Aaron (vast)

Drwillis

Procrastinated doing important work for this car to add some more sound deadening in the rear seat and fuel pump area. My exhaust is (currently) droney and the fuel pump whines a little so I thought this would take a little edge off

Unfortunately, once I got fuel pump area I realised that was done in a pretty dodgy way. Firstly it was cut through the rear seat area instead of dropping the subframe.

But the big issue is how badly it was sealed (some silicone) and the shocking wiring on the fuel pump (exposed wire without insulation). No wonder the sound coming into the cabin.

Looks like I may as will upgrade to the DW200 pump while I fix this. I'll probably heat shrink temporarily over exposed wires and come back to it soon. One task always leads to another ?

TL_V70

Deutsch plugs will be the way to go and get rid of thoes shitty push on connections

I have a crimper you can borrow and probably a few Deutsch connector too if you need Will

AshDVS

TL_V70
Deutsch plugs will be the way to go and get rid of thoes shitty push on connections
I have a crimper you can borrow and probably a few Deutsch connector too if you need Will
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/338/K61EWABC64FJ.jpg

Absolutely, that's my standard solution now for any questionable/shitty connectors. I bought a big Deutsch connector kit a while back, and it's been super handy.

Ex850R

AshDVS
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/191985#Comment_191985
Absolutely, that's my standard solution now for any questionable/shitty connectors. I bought a big Deutsch connector kit a while back, and it's been super handy.

Good thinking!

So any plug you info is replaced with new , probably a good idea to just progressively replace all you can get to as all made of plastic that is past use by date.

TL_V70

DEUTSCH are really good connectors many different types and numbers of holes for the wires

Caterpillar DEUTSCH plugs are black and they are a marine grade so they seal better in harsh environments but the grey ones are really good and fine on a car.

i am lucky enough that I have a small collection of plugs at home to use

Drwillis

That's a really good idea. I can then run a larger gauge wire while I'm there ?

TL_V70

Normal Deutsch plugs will take 4mm Automotive wire which i think is 1.5mm2 cross sectional but that's good for 15amps other wise I have the bigger guage wire plugs at work and I can get you they take 6mm Automotive cable that's good for 30amps continuous the that's a pretty serous fuel set up. 4mm cable is plenty

Just remember the Deutsch pins with the green band is for 4mm wire and with out the green band only takes 3mm wire

Drwillis

Thanks for the offer, I think I will buy it all anyway since it'll be useful to have on hand.

I think I'd use the standard deutsch for this connecting this and then wiring up to the connectors in the boot area. Apparently the DT series allows up using 2.5mm/14awg but I think.

If I was then going to rewire the section from the boot to the relay in the front, I would use the deutsch DTP series and maybe 12awg (4mm). It may be too much overkill so I will look at that once I've tested the voltage drop, condition of that wiring,etc..

TL_V70

4mm Automotive will do 99% of everything in a car beyond start and charging cables obviously. Will happily run 15Amp all day long and probably a little more in short runs. Bigger is always better with cabling with in reason i am not going to run 000 B&S cable for my fridge lol (1000A Dc cable) but fuel pumps spot lights and pretty much everything thing i wire up is 4mm. Big lights bars 6mm tho.

My DW200 runs factory 24yr ol wiring no probs at all. I am fussy with earth cables tho I like bigger than required and tend to add a couple of extra ones around especially block to body ect i also upgraded the positive wiring from the alt to the starter up the main fuse box just coz but I do alot of things from a reliability point

I don't cheap out on brakes ,cooling parts tyres and engine parts if it will potentially save my life or get me out of the shit it want to GOOOD STUUFFF LOL

TL_V70

You can get the crimp tool online or possibly at jay car cheap. Alto my cheap set at home appears to be pretty good. size 16 will do 3mm and 4mm. My good set for work was about $120 from Ashdown Ingram in Welshpool and my propper DT multi size tool was about $500 but I use them everyday of my life so I I could justify the money but narva ones go for $40 online and do the same thing

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Drwillis

Had some one of those tailgate repair kits on the car. Unfortunately 2 top clip supports broke due to a dirt road (also now have dash squeak). Anyone have a solution or suggestion? I was thinking of trying to find a new tailgate or fixing it by moulding fibre glass in the shape and drilling it to fit the clips.

On side note, I rewired my headlight harnesses since they were dangerously losing insulation. I only had 12awg cable which made it a pita. I put heatshrink over the park light bit since it was easier and doesn't have much load. Happy with a fiddly but very cheap solution.

Ex850R

Yep, the plastic in the car is now all brittle thanks to eco crap and wanting to sell new cars.....

I tried all sorts of glue and stuff but beware,adding mass to the tailgate brings it down real quick as the gas struts are big but finely balanced.

A new flat or shaped light weight thing to replace the whole lot would be better.

Carbon fibre?

Drwillis

Ex850R
Yep, the plastic in the car is now all brittle thanks to eco crap and wanting to sell new cars.....
I tried all sorts of glue and stuff but beware,adding mass to the tailgate brings it down real quick as the gas struts are big but finely balanced.
A new flat or shaped light weight thing to replace the whole lot would be better.
Carbon fibre?

Yeah I'm not running the spoiler atm since it seems to weigh it down too much. Do you know of anywjere where someone has tried making a flatter tailgate?

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