Will's 98 V70R Build

This section is kind of a tutorial since it may be helpful for others who have to play around with the stereo. I will probably add more later on adding the ground, mounting the amp and the power distribution block if anyone wants it.

When I got the car I replaced all the broken speakers and effectively had a working stock Dolby system. The centre speaker disintegrated after a few too many days in the sun and tbh it was probably already basically stuffed. I still need to get a new one.

My objective with the stereo is the best possible system that appears stock. My plan was to get two sets of c70 convertible dynaudio speakers. The v70 dynaudio set is four 6.5 inchs and four tweeters with the caps 6.8 ohms (8 speakers in total). Two c70 sets would provide all the speakers and require only the removal of some resistors and changing of caps.

Instead, I got my hands on an retail dynaudio 6.5 inch set (gt242) but after much fiddling decided to go aftermarket amp. I am still after one pair of 6.5 dynaudios and a few rear tweeters too from a c70 convertible.

I am only halfway through the stereo but the system is effectively:

Here are some starter pics of sound proofing the doors and installing the speakers. I basically just put dynamat lightly on parts and covered some parts with closed cell foam. I also replaced all the wiring harness tape while I was there.

Before rhs door

After lhs door

I glued the tweeters into the stock location and used the stock mounts for the door speakers too.

I used the amp din connector with an rca adapter. The adapter gives a 12v signal wire and front and rear rcas plugs. I already had this for the sub but the sub now gets signal from preouts of amp.

I used a wiring harness adapter for the rear speakers to go straight into the aftermarket amp. I believe it was Metra 70-9221 from Amazon (grey plug in bottom picture). I beleive it is also used in many early P2 cars.It simply plugged in and I screwed down each wire to the amps wire plug. This is the adapter to use if you have the amp harness. A different adapter can be used for plug at stereo. It can be used if you dont want to separate the tweeter from the midwoofer (stock setup).

The front output was a bit more difficult since I wanted to have separate wiring to the tweeters and woofer to attach at the crossover. I wanted to run new wiring completely so I could leave it all untouched and also go for thicker wiring. The problem is the door hinge rubber pass throughs. They are a pinned plug and not a simple rubber conduit like expected.

I ended up splicing in the from my amp speaker output wire harness (the one that Volvo puts in with cars with an underseat amp). I added forked ends to the wire then joined the xover wires to the amps front channel output connector. After doing this I thought of a better way of doing it with rewiring the tweeters and only splicing the woofers but it was already done.

Not being able to store the xovers in the door meant I had to put them behind the stereo where there is minimal space.

Below is how all comes out:

So I've had a whirring metal on metal sound (not grinding) coming from the rear left (passenger side) of the car. It's been like it for a while but isn't super loud. It does not sound like a wheel bearing (not roaring) and doesn't seem to change around corners. There is also no clicking.

However, the sound goes up and down with wheel speed so it must be driveline. I have removed the awd tailshaft as part of diagnosis and it seems quieter but not gone. I changed the Diff fluid and didn't change the sound. The old fluid was also very clean.

No cv boots are torn from when I last looked (150 kms ago). I think it could possibly be the inner passenger side cv joint. I can't think of other options. The exhaust is super close to that spot so could it cook the grease through the boot?

What actual things should I try? If it is that driveshafts, what are my best options?

My awd tail/dive shaft is still disconnected BTW. Any helps deeply appreciated.

Recently upgraded my transmission cooler to a modified xc90 set up. After completing it I would definitely recommend the Ipd one instead. the Aussie dollar is up, it looks better, less points of failures and way less messing around so it's a better option.

I bent and cut the sides with a dremel. Got larger bolts from bunnings (they didn't have actual bolts so I used Allen key bolts). Also used some washers to space it away from condenser to make an approximate 1.5cm gap.

Anyway I have fitted it and am just waiting on a couple orings and fittings. After that I'll flush it again and hope it'll hold on for a few more thousand kms and a tune ?

Soon I'll get an an exhaust. Then I'll decide whether to upgrade to a 19t yet or just keep the 16t.

Atm I haven't tried since I'm about to sand and respray the bumper. The bottom of the cooler sits about 1cm above the bottom of my intercooler tank. The main bad side is the bottom hose hangs a little due to angle. All of it currently is at or above intercooler level though so it should be fine ?

Small update. Currently have it in pieces since I am planning to swap turbo, fit new exhaust manifold etc. Just really need a 19t turbo, an me7 airbox cover (960 maf) and possibly put in my DW200 fuel pump. Im

The cam position sensor plug exploded so I got a new one. I also put some inserts into the subframe since I had them already. I wish I had gotten delrin ones now. My subframe is slightly dinted so I might get another one and swap it.....eventually.

Does anyone know of the c70 subframes with solid bushings will fit? (I heard they have the place for the awd rear mount on them)

Awesome I'll check out his Facebook again. I saw his page when I was comparing m4.4 mapping between him and Aaron (vast)