TL_V70

Deutsch plugs will be the way to go and get rid of thoes shitty push on connections

I have a crimper you can borrow and probably a few Deutsch connector too if you need Will

https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/338/K61EWABC64FJ.jpg

Absolutely, that's my standard solution now for any questionable/shitty connectors. I bought a big Deutsch connector kit a while back, and it's been super handy.

    AshDVS

    https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/191985#Comment_191985

    Absolutely, that's my standard solution now for any questionable/shitty connectors. I bought a big Deutsch connector kit a while back, and it's been super handy.

    Good thinking!

    So any plug you info is replaced with new , probably a good idea to just progressively replace all you can get to as all made of plastic that is past use by date.

    DEUTSCH are really good connectors many different types and numbers of holes for the wires

    Caterpillar DEUTSCH plugs are black and they are a marine grade so they seal better in harsh environments but the grey ones are really good and fine on a car.

    i am lucky enough that I have a small collection of plugs at home to use

    That's a really good idea. I can then run a larger gauge wire while I'm there ?

    Normal Deutsch plugs will take 4mm Automotive wire which i think is 1.5mm2 cross sectional but that's good for 15amps other wise I have the bigger guage wire plugs at work and I can get you they take 6mm Automotive cable that's good for 30amps continuous the that's a pretty serous fuel set up. 4mm cable is plenty

    Just remember the Deutsch pins with the green band is for 4mm wire and with out the green band only takes 3mm wire

    Thanks for the offer, I think I will buy it all anyway since it'll be useful to have on hand.

    I think I'd use the standard deutsch for this connecting this and then wiring up to the connectors in the boot area. Apparently the DT series allows up using 2.5mm/14awg but I think.

    If I was then going to rewire the section from the boot to the relay in the front, I would use the deutsch DTP series and maybe 12awg (4mm). It may be too much overkill so I will look at that once I've tested the voltage drop, condition of that wiring,etc..

    4mm Automotive will do 99% of everything in a car beyond start and charging cables obviously. Will happily run 15Amp all day long and probably a little more in short runs. Bigger is always better with cabling with in reason i am not going to run 000 B&S cable for my fridge lol (1000A Dc cable) but fuel pumps spot lights and pretty much everything thing i wire up is 4mm. Big lights bars 6mm tho.

    My DW200 runs factory 24yr ol wiring no probs at all. I am fussy with earth cables tho I like bigger than required and tend to add a couple of extra ones around especially block to body ect i also upgraded the positive wiring from the alt to the starter up the main fuse box just coz but I do alot of things from a reliability point

    I don't cheap out on brakes ,cooling parts tyres and engine parts if it will potentially save my life or get me out of the shit it want to GOOOD STUUFFF LOL

    You can get the crimp tool online or possibly at jay car cheap. Alto my cheap set at home appears to be pretty good. size 16 will do 3mm and 4mm. My good set for work was about $120 from Ashdown Ingram in Welshpool and my propper DT multi size tool was about $500 but I use them everyday of my life so I I could justify the money but narva ones go for $40 online and do the same thing

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    2 months later

    Had some one of those tailgate repair kits on the car. Unfortunately 2 top clip supports broke due to a dirt road (also now have dash squeak). Anyone have a solution or suggestion? I was thinking of trying to find a new tailgate or fixing it by moulding fibre glass in the shape and drilling it to fit the clips.

    On side note, I rewired my headlight harnesses since they were dangerously losing insulation. I only had 12awg cable which made it a pita. I put heatshrink over the park light bit since it was easier and doesn't have much load. Happy with a fiddly but very cheap solution.

    Yep, the plastic in the car is now all brittle thanks to eco crap and wanting to sell new cars.....

    I tried all sorts of glue and stuff but beware,adding mass to the tailgate brings it down real quick as the gas struts are big but finely balanced.

    A new flat or shaped light weight thing to replace the whole lot would be better.

    Carbon fibre?

      Ex850R

      Yep, the plastic in the car is now all brittle thanks to eco crap and wanting to sell new cars.....

      I tried all sorts of glue and stuff but beware,adding mass to the tailgate brings it down real quick as the gas struts are big but finely balanced.

      A new flat or shaped light weight thing to replace the whole lot would be better.

      Carbon fibre?

      Yeah I'm not running the spoiler atm since it seems to weigh it down too much. Do you know of anywjere where someone has tried making a flatter tailgate?

        Will Get new gas struts for the tail gate of eBay there and easy to replace and make a difference

        Regarding the tailgate, I wouldnt have any additional sound deadener in the tailgate itself. I'd replace the tailgate struts with good quality replacements (do both). Source a replacement tailgate lower trim from a wrecked car (yes they're getting harder to come by but are around) and fit a tailgate trim repair kit to it before fitting. Replace all the clips that fasten it in place and then put it all back together.

        Some of the trim is getting old and terrible now but some of it is just too hard to repair as well.

        The above is what I'm doing with mine anyway. If I do add additional sound deadener, it certainly wont be inside the tailgate.

        The roof spoiler isn't that heavy, but I am also fitting a full carbon one to mine (it'll save me painting the original).

        Thanks everyone, I plan on removing some deadener. I added it due to drone.

        I have already replaced the struts and i almost never use the boot anyway. The old tailgate struts were dated as 2012 on them anyway so I've kept them.

        I'll try and find a wrecked tailgate to sort it out. It's better with it off and not squeaking than in a broken state.

        Yep , same here . Change the struts , makes a big difference ?

        Drwillis

        https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/194509#Comment_194509

        Yeah I'm not running the spoiler atm since it seems to weigh it down too much. Do you know of anywjere where someone has tried making a flatter tailgate?

        Only when I played with my v70r one adding goop to strengthen it and some noise damping material and it kept falling on my head .

        Thought of just using an old panel and laying up fibreglass or something but never got that far .

        Even flat thin ply would be ok I reckon, carpet it and be done .

        6 days later

        Have left the tailgate for another day. In the meantime I've fixed my dodgy radiator fan plug and done some handling improvements.

        My front sway bushings looked like crap and the bar is marked yellow which apparently means its 21mm.

        I fitted 21mm whiteline sway bar bushings, shackles and lateral locks.They were easy to find and cost me about 80 bucks for all three (on sale). Pns I used are W21105G, W21301 and kll122. The dimensions were very close to stock.

        Had to drop rear of subframe to get the clearance and still couldn't pull the full bar out due to steering guard and angle gear.

        While I dropped the rear, I added bne delrin subframe bushings. Drilled the edge of the old bushing with a 5mm drill bit to crack the liner(careful not to score the subframe) . I could then pull it out by hand and a little prying.

        I used the old bolts and a spacer to drive the bushing in. Once seated in subframe, I used new subframe bolts, replaced front washers and torqued to spec (77ft lbs +120 degrees) .

        Car is a bit tighter feeling now but need to do a bit more driving to really get a good idea of handling.

        Steering still seems a bit heavy. Have flushed power steering fluid so I might try lubing the steering u joint and seeing if it feels better.

        Delrin subframe bushes are much nicer and far more predictable than a worn out oem bush with a urethane insert. Nice work!

          AshDVS

          Delrin subframe bushes are much nicer and far more predictable than a worn out oem bush with a urethane insert. Nice work!

          This car wasn't feeling too bad but my other car had the full 'driving on ice' front end floatyness.

          They also pressed easier than the xc90 ones I put in my other car. Those had to be perfectly lined up or else they Flexed.

          4 days later

          Those delrin bushes look a lot better than the oem set up . I went with the inserts but thinking now I've seen yours to go with those ? hhmmm