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  • First Volvo owner & love the site AWD XC70 B5244T3

Purchased my first Volvo. I live in Australia in NSW. Scored a 2003 Volvo XC70 Cross Country 2.4 turbo B5244T3 on 98 Premium. Car had 201,000 klms, one owner in mint condition full sevice history. Loving the car. So well built, goes quick. Drives great, fuel economy awesome. Getting 9.1 klms to a litre at 110/115 on highway. Even better at night in the cool. Car does 240 klms (150mph) on a middle of no where test at night. Just a great car. Had Ford wagons all my life. Australian built 4 litre straight 6 wagons are world class n if u have ever driven a BA BF wagon u would know a great wagon at 190kw that can pull 2 tonnes with 5 adults on board plus 600kg in the back n still get to 200 klms p hour quick. So comparing the wagons, this Volvo is a very different wagon but up there in different ways. These Volvos are so well made with great features. Your site is great. Thanks for letting me join. I wanted to add some photos of the car but couldnt work out how to. Also, am going to buy a 2005 (2nd series) XC70 AWD turbo wagon to do up but with heavily modified motor n hoping for 250kw to 300kw. Wanting a 2005/2006 XC70 wagon caise i like the factory improved slightly nicer upgrade dash n exterior bumper upgrades. So cheap to buy these wagons. I just did my full 200 k service. Easy n parts were v cheap from a German company on ebay that stocked OEM parts so cheap compared to local ripp off Volvo dealers. Did full timing kit n belt with water pump, all seals, Air filer n fuel filter n all new plugs n coil packs plus oil n gbox n diff servicing. Did every part that could be replaced as per the 200k factory service n i know its been done properly !! Will update with photos if i can. Prev Owner sold car because Volvo wanted almost $4800 Aust $ for the full service. I did labour n parts were apx $750 Aust $ for everything. It pays to do your research. Long live my Ovlov. Ovlov is my cars affectionate nickname (Volvo backwards) :)

    Yep your hooked, watch out till you've got 3 of them they breed

    Yes. I know that i will be getting another car n making it quick with block work n pistons n headwork n bigger turbo etc. Parts are cheap and these cars hammer when set up right. Espescially the AWD turbos cause they can go anywhere n or off road at a very quick rate. Handling thru the mountains n driving fast n braking late, this thing just hangs on n its scary how fast u can go with AWD n the great brakes of the Cross Country turbo. People dont realise how quik these cars are on a cold night with 98 premium sucking freezing air. The sound of the 5 cylinder being thrashed is awesome in gearbox ratchet mode thru the mountains in wet or dry. My next series 2 turbo xc70 is going to be balls to the walls, no expense spared on making the motor nasty n loud. Long live the mighty 5 cylinder turbos. :)

    If you can find a (very r asre) xc70 T6 You will be even more impressed.

    The only thing holding back high power is the gearbox,if you look into it you can upgrade the one you have now with parts from auto shop in USA but the lat e r model auto, while being a much better box than the older model ,h was it's limits too.

    Most here would buy parts from FCP EURO in USA, IPD in USA or partsforvolvonline in UK. FCP has lifetime replacement guarantee on everything including oil and filters!

    Thankyou. Will look for the car u mentioned. Great parts tip too. :)

    Bretto

    Purchased my first Volvo. I live in Australia in NSW. Scored a 2003 Volvo XC70 Cross Country 2.4 turbo B5244T3 on 98 Premium. Car had 201,000 klms, one owner in mint condition full sevice history. Loving the car. So well built, goes quick. Drives great, fuel economy awesome. Getting 9.1 klms to a litre at 110/115 on highway. Even better at night in the cool. Car does 240 klms (150mph) on a middle of no where test at night. Just a great car. Had Ford wagons all my life. Australian built 4 litre straight 6 wagons are world class n if u have ever driven a BA BF wagon u would know a great wagon at 190kw that can pull 2 tonnes with 5 adults on board plus 600kg in the back n still get to 200 klms p hour quick. So comparing the wagons, this Volvo is a very different wagon but up there in different ways. These Volvos are so well made with great features. Your site is great. Thanks for letting me join. I wanted to add some photos of the car but couldnt work out how to. Also, am going to buy a 2005 (2nd series) XC70 AWD turbo wagon to do up but with heavily modified motor n hoping for 250kw to 300kw. Wanting a 2005/2006 XC70 wagon caise i like the factory improved slightly nicer upgrade dash n exterior bumper upgrades. So cheap to buy these wagons. I just did my full 200 k service. Easy n parts were v cheap from a German company on ebay that stocked OEM parts so cheap compared to local ripp off Volvo dealers. Did full timing kit n belt with water pump, all seals, Air filer n fuel filter n all new plugs n coil packs plus oil n gbox n diff servicing. Did every part that could be replaced as per the 200k factory service n i know its been done properly !! Will update with photos if i can. Prev Owner sold car because Volvo wanted almost $4800 Aust $ for the full service. I did labour n parts were apx $750 Aust $ for everything. It pays to do your research. Long live my Ovlov. Ovlov is my cars affectionate nickname (Volvo backwards) :)

    Welcome. If you want to add photos use this button:

    Thankyou.

    A quick question, i am running 10W50 penrite full synthetic as oposed to the 5W 30 volvo reckons. I was told if u are thrashing the car hard woth 200,000 ks on the clock in summer, u need a 50weight full synthetic Penrite to protect the motor better. The only question is that is the turbo getting fed enough oil given the thicker viscosity and the flow rate using a 50weight versus the flow rate of a 30 or 40 weight full synthetic... What do u guys suggest ? Stay with the 10w50 full syn Penrite or go to a different combo. I will also.tow 500kgs from time to time in real hot weather as well....

    Any advice re the oil choice would be great for the 2.4 turbo B5244T3 motor. Thanks Brett

    Stick to recommended in penrite syn.

    Change filter and oil at 7K maybe.

    Check the PCV system.

    The Cranvase vent hoses and all that system have been all cleaned out n are fine. Everything fully serviced.

    So u suggest going back to a 5w30 in penrite full syn ?

    Do not go back to 5w30,unless of course you enjoy rebuilding engines, 10w40 or 10w50 is perfect for a high mileage volvo of that era.

    The old wives tale of hot weather or driving hard.....

    The car has oil thermostat so oil gets as hot as it needs to be so making oil thicker actually stops it cooling properly ,the system is compromised.

    I don't think there are any situations in modern cars where a different oil grad ed other than recommended is justified.

    Others have luck with NUlon.

    I use Penrite 10 Tenths of correct grade in the T6 after always using Penrite syn in my old 5cyl cars.

    It seems to be much better in that it has more better additives , it uses less oil now (the T6 use some oil) sounds better.

    All subjective but not that more expensive so why not.

    My car doesnt use oil so far after doing a good 20,000 ks with it since i got it at 200,000 ks on it.

    I could go back to a 10w40 which is half way between 10/30 and 10/50 full syn penrite. I will look into the Racing Penrite which has extra zinc and other stuff. Changing the oil every 7500 ks is what i do. The book reccomendation is dodgy cause the car was built for mostly winter countries where the oil is always at the 0/30 or 5/30 area. Hot countries seem to be 10/40 or maybe 10/50.......

    Again. Old wives tale....

    Just in case.......

    Some chemical testing disproves this jokers assertion...

    https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/why-many-of-you-should-not-use-0w20.422625/

    Use any of those oils and the engine will still last a lot longer than the gearbox will.

    If you plan to get another car to do all that motor work you mentioned, you'll need to find a manual one, or get yourself some spare gearboxes. Plenty of info online about P2 auto box failures.

    I've always used Penrite HPR10 in the whiteblocks, it goes well