I got my car back on the road today and everything seems good, no more noise and no oil leaks either at this stage so hopefully this is the end of it.
Australia Post lost my parcel so after 4 weeks the seller recalled the item and I ordered the part again, it came 2 days later. Having to put it all back together 4 weeks after taking it apart was not great but it went back together well.
Some thoughts on reassembly:
You have to set the rotational torque when you install the pinion nut, a fancy tool I don't have so I used the method in the LR Freelander2 thread I linked. It feels tighter than you would think is correct if done to the specified torque value but as others have reported this is normal.
Be careful replacing the main oil seal on the pinion shaft, you only get one shot, there is a proper tool but I didn't have it so had to tap it in gradually with some pipe of matching diameter. Fluid will leak from a small hole in the bottom of the diff if you get it wrong.
To reinstall the subframe I jacked it up a little then put the fuel filter bracket back in place while its low and access is good. Next the prop shaft, then springs and then once up in position get the drive shafts in and do the lower control arms before any of the other arms as they are hardest to line up.
You should probably get a wheel alignment after as I don't see how you can get the subframe back in the exact same position.
So total cost of the repair including diff fluid and haldex service kit but not including the tools I had to buy was $270
The pinion tool cost $251.
I only replaced one bearing as the other bearings did not show any signs of wear, this simplified the job a lot.
