Been waitin bloody weeks for them ball joints... they turned up late yesterday afternoon but in boredom had started to seal the floor of the shed so best give it some time to cure before I bring the car back in. Here’s a pic after I polished the Volvo last year. Got an electronic dizzy too.
Looking good! What product did you use on the shed floor?
I would rather see a couple of skids earring out the door with a wiggle!!!! But much improved from before and easy to keep clean. Nice.
Shed looks good! Interesting you've decided to drill the bellhousing, it was common to drill the block in years gone by and my machinist still does it actually. But he does trimatic drills instead of turbo pattern drills unlike years gone by!
Vee_QueShed looks good! Interesting you've decided to drill the bellhousing, it was common to drill the block in years gone by and my machinist still does it actually. But he does trimatic drills instead of turbo pattern drills unlike years gone by!
Hey mate I did know that but by the time I got the gearbox and found it was different, I had already completely assembled the motor. Harrop only wanted the block. Bit of a bummer but it should still be okay, it’s getting welded and drilled rather than elongating the holes... And cheaper too.
Nutech brilliant, did you add the non slip addative into the paint, did my driveway with it 2 months ago.
Warm water, dish washing liquid gets any oil of it.
Well finally car is back in the shed... ready to fit up. Bellhousing is drilled ready to be picked up now.
have come across a Ford Explorer diff for $0 Out of a mates wreck. anyone have experience here with converting them into a 240?
watkinshttps://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/425/GA73FIW1FCMZ.jpeg
Well finally car is back in the shed... ready to fit up. Bellhousing is drilled ready to be picked up now.
have come across a Ford Explorer diff for $0 Out of a mates wreck. anyone have experience here with converting them into a 240?
Nice work! Great car and shed!
I did the 8.8 install on my 240. What I did with a mate was roughly this:
Make a jig that replicates the position of the Volvo suspension arm brackets.
Cut brackets off Volvo diff.
Cut brackets off Ford diff.
Shorten long side of Ford diff to make same as short side (using 2 x short axles).
Weld Volvo brackets to shortened Ford housing using jig you made.
Modify hand brake cables.
Tailshaft.
Find/Make rear brake caliper hoses that don't hit rear spring.
Make new hard lines to adapt Volvo to Ford.
Reinforce trailing arms
Adjustable panhard rod with spacers as will hit 8.8 rear cover.
If you do the math you will find the Explorer calipers are almost as powerful as the Volvo fronts, so the front brakes will need upgrading along with the master cylinder or you could find a less powerful caliper perhaps for the Explorer diff.
At the end of all this, you still have an old diff in an old car, so may as well replace the LSD components, put new seals in, brakes etc. Also need to decide how you will handle two different stud patterns front vs. rear in terms of wheel and offset of wheel. The 8.8 widens the rear by 20mm or so, so you can use common +36 to +40 wheels on rear but these will no longer match the front.
It's a fair mount of work and impacts a number of areas of the car, but is still a great way to get into a strong 3.73 LSD.
I found these youtube videos by The Fabrication Series quite good
Bloody hell, wish he had learned about PPE in all his years......
Thanks for the info!! Bit to think about...
i might consider welding in the short term... a lot less work that way
So an 8.8 should slot under a 140 without changing the wheelbase?
I meant after shortening.
When shortened I think it's like an inch wider than a stock 240 diff or so, so goes a way to correct the track width difference inherent in them. Unsure how that translates to 140s, but they might be narrower than a 240?
140 is wider than the 240.
