Elk

  • Aug 7, 2023
  • Joined Aug 2, 2014
  • 0 best answers
  • @Elk

    Offer him less, manual swap the R, added bonus it will come with a m4.4 ecu.

    • Thanks guys - it takes a long time to shift into 1st and when it does its a big shunt, when it actually drives it just wont hold a gear and shudders trying to hold gear etc. It's pretty bad. I just called Mark at Berry again, see if I can get more details on the 4 speed swap... he has given my number to a chap in Adelaide, hopefully this leads somewhere.

      @Elk I'm OK with trying to rebuild it once it has been removed from the vehicle, my issue is I have a single carport down a steep drive, once it's up on stands it isn't moving again easily. Would take me a long time to figure out how to drop the subframe and remove the trans... not fair on the other half when she is the one ferrying kids around etc. Located in Burnie as well so not ideal.

      @1971_144GL I think the current trans is Aisin AW55-50SN. The XC70 trans might be similar if you can find a part number on it somewhere?

    • @Elk

      If you are in Sydney and want to visit Blacktown I have one in good shape for $30

    • Hi @Elk, alarm and immobiliser (transponder chipped keys) are two separate systems, you can have one but not the other.

      Immobiliser system has keys with transponder chips inside, antenna ring around the ignition which reads the chip then sends the signal to a immobiliser control unit. Immobiliser control unit then tells the engine ECU if an authorised key has been used to start the engine. If the signal is incorrect or missing, immobiliser control unit will tell the engine ECU to shut engine down 2 seconds after starting. These are factory fitted (not available as an accessory kit) and Volvo didn't introduce immobiliser until 1996 model year. While I wouldn't say it's impossible to retrofit, it's going to be a lot of work, and you need to replace the engine ECU in the process. Cars with & without immobiliser have different engine ECUs.

      Guard Alarm 2 does have a starter motor cutout feature, although Volvo doesn't call this "immobiliser". If the alarm has been activated (someone attempts to break into your car) Guard Alarm 2 will disconnect the starter motor circuit, making it impossible to start by hot-wiring.

      On earlier Volvo alarms, the alarm & remote locking are two separate units, and again you can have one but not the other. 210/211 is the alarm unit, while the green plug behind the glove box connects to the remote locking unit. Guard Alarm 2 is a later, more advanced alarm unit which has built-in remote locking, so you can simply ignore the green plug for the earlier remote locking unit. With 960's I know for certain that up to mid-96 model year, they're still factory pre-wired for this earlier setup with green plug for separate remote locking unit. But I have successfully installed Guard Alarm 2 on these cars & simply ignore the green connector.

      If you are just installing Guard Alarm 2, the only thing you need to code is the remote key fob to the alarm relay. This is a very simple procedure which doesn't require visit to the dealer. To do so, close all doors (including bonnet & boot), switch ignition on & off 5 times within 10 seconds (don't need to start engine, just to position II then off), leave the ignition on the 5th time and press a button on the remote within 15 seconds. If you have more than one remote, continue pressing a button on each remote no more than 10 seconds apart.