AJ's Hilux LN46


I've pretty much neglected this thing since it developed a massive oil leak a few years ago. With the Cruiser still off the road, I've decided to start working on it.

After much cleaning, it looks like the front main seal is the cause. I'll finish pulling it apart soon.

So far I've ordered:
GMB water pump
Gates timing belt
OEM front main seal
OEM cam seal
Rocker cover gasket
Sump plug
Drag link rebuild kit

Immediate task is to fix the leak, plus fit the sump with turbo oil drain supplied by @Vee_Que years ago.

I'd also like to replace the radiator, however decent ones are hard to find. An LN106 radiator looks like it should fit, they're the same width but around 50mm taller. The fan and shroud opening are larger too, however the fan offset and clutch diameter are different so this will require some thought.

The L45 4 speed gearbox is worn out. I have a G52 5 speed to replace it with, this will require a trial fit to see what's required for the conversion.

Preferred turbo setup at this stage will be a fabricated manifold and either TF035 or TD04 from a Subaru, probably without an intercooler to begin with.


  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    I'd go bigger dude. My hilux with a 0.48 t3 turbo was barely any more powerful.
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    edited August 2018
    I'd go bigger dude. My hilux with a 0.48 t3 turbo was barely any more powerful.
    How much did you turn the fuel up? How much boost were you running?
  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    8psi, fuel was already adjusted, the egts made it to about 650 towing a heavy load.
  • 8psi, fuel was already adjusted, the egts made it to about 650 towing a heavy load.
    Pre or post turbo?
  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    Post. Hence 8psi.
  • Post. Hence 8psi.
    650C post turbo sounds extremely high. Any reason why you didn't increase boost to decrease EGT?
  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    850 is high. Did not increase the boost because I had no desire to blow the motor up.

    This was with the Ute loaded with branches, with an 8x5 cage trailer full too and my brother in the passenger seat. Up a long Hill. The rest of the time it didn't go past 400, remember I also intercooled it. It just didn't go that well.
  • I definitely wouldn't be comfortable running over 500C in the downpipe or 650C in the manifold with an IDI engine.

    At this stage I'd like to run about 12psi.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    What are you basing the information from though? I couldn't find anything to say 650 was bad, 800 yes.
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    edited September 2018
    Not sure how I feel about this. I hope it doesn't turn into a kettle.


    Also received the other parts.
  • AshDVSAsh @AshDVS - Geelong, VIC
    Id be more scared of a GMB pump than I would of that.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que @Vee_Que South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    What's wrong with gmb!? They are oem for lots of Japanese vehicles.
  • Oh well, it's the wrong pump. Snout is too long, so the pulley won't line up.
  • AshDVSAsh @AshDVS - Geelong, VIC
    edited September 2018
    I reckon that 'oem boxed GMB' is different to 'retail/consumer GMB'. At the very least, this appears to be the case on some of their offerings.
  • Looks like I've been sent a T57 pump and I require a T18. Have also arranged a correct cam seal.
  • AshDVSAsh @AshDVS - Geelong, VIC
    Neato. As long as you've got it sorted and the head scratching can stop. :)
  • Let's see if this works.


  • Taking the radiator to a dude tomorrow to see if it can be recored.

    If not, Adrad do a core and end tanks but not an assembled radiator.
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    edited February 2019
    New Gates timing belt was fitted late last year, however the timing mark for the cam sprocket is meant to point at the rocker cover gasket, rather than an actual timing mark. I'll get somebody else to double check I have it right, before refitting the cover:


    The original radiator tanks and brackets have been fitted to a new Adrad core. New Tridon "high flow" thermostat fitted. Not sure if more flow through the thermostat is actually a good thing, however a mate is running one without issues. I'm really hoping this along with injectors will solve it getting hot under load.

    This arrived today:

    Battery tie down bracket was full of corrosion, so I've peeled off the plastic coating and cleaned it up with a wire wheel. Will treat with rust converter and paint.

    Current list of jobs to be done:
    Set valve clearances
    Paint or powder coat rocker cover
    Fit sump
    Rebuild or replace injectors
    Test glow plugs, replace as necessary
    Test viscous fan hub operation, adjust and refill if necessary
    Remove LED light bar, I don't like the look of it and no longer need it
    Find and fit a decent grille
    Bend the winch control box bracket, I've never liked the 45 degree angle
    Replace drag link ends
    Replace swivel hub seals
    Delete brake backing plates
    Tidy up some wiring in the engine bay
    G52 gearbox conversion
    Turbo stuff
    Drive it

    I should do something about the brakes. They work well enough now, so I could probably leave them alone. The front brakes are 4 piston with solid rotors. I'm very tempted to upgrade to the slightly larger LN106 4 piston calipers and vented rotors. Not too sure what (if anything) needs to be done with the master cylinder to make that work.

    The hand brake doesn't work too well either. LN106 rear drums may fix this issue, and in theory would remove any doubt about which master cylinder to use. Assuming hand brake cables would have to be custom made.

    Turbo setup will most likely be the TF035 from the Foz GT parts car on a Rock Solid Engineering manifold, simple crossover pipe, and 2.5" downpipe into the current exhaust, with a rear muffler delete.
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