I've pretty much neglected this thing since it developed a massive oil leak a few years ago. With the Cruiser still off the road, I've decided to start working on it.

After much cleaning, it looks like the front main seal is the cause. I'll finish pulling it apart soon.

So far I've ordered:
GMB water pump
Gates timing belt
OEM front main seal
OEM cam seal
Rocker cover gasket
Sump plug
Drag link rebuild kit

Immediate task is to fix the leak, plus fit the sump with turbo oil drain supplied by @Vee_Que years ago.

I'd also like to replace the radiator, however decent ones are hard to find. An LN106 radiator looks like it should fit, they're the same width but around 50mm taller. The fan and shroud opening are larger too, however the fan offset and clutch diameter are different so this will require some thought.

The L45 4 speed gearbox is worn out. I have a G52 5 speed to replace it with, this will require a trial fit to see what's required for the conversion.

Preferred turbo setup at this stage will be a fabricated manifold and either TF035 or TD04 from a Subaru, probably without an intercooler to begin with.
I'd go bigger dude. My hilux with a 0.48 t3 turbo was barely any more powerful.
Vee_Que;c-144683 wroteI'd go bigger dude. My hilux with a 0.48 t3 turbo was barely any more powerful.
How much did you turn the fuel up? How much boost were you running?
8psi, fuel was already adjusted, the egts made it to about 650 towing a heavy load.
Vee_Que;c-144773 wrote8psi, fuel was already adjusted, the egts made it to about 650 towing a heavy load.
Pre or post turbo?
Vee_Que;c-144878 wrotePost. Hence 8psi.
650C post turbo sounds extremely high. Any reason why you didn't increase boost to decrease EGT?
850 is high. Did not increase the boost because I had no desire to blow the motor up.

This was with the Ute loaded with branches, with an 8x5 cage trailer full too and my brother in the passenger seat. Up a long Hill. The rest of the time it didn't go past 400, remember I also intercooled it. It just didn't go that well.
I definitely wouldn't be comfortable running over 500C in the downpipe or 650C in the manifold with an IDI engine.

At this stage I'd like to run about 12psi.
What are you basing the information from though? I couldn't find anything to say 650 was bad, 800 yes.
Not sure how I feel about this. I hope it doesn't turn into a kettle.



Also received the other parts.
Id be more scared of a GMB pump than I would of that.
What's wrong with gmb!? They are oem for lots of Japanese vehicles.
Oh well, it's the wrong pump. Snout is too long, so the pulley won't line up.
bugger.
I reckon that 'oem boxed GMB' is different to 'retail/consumer GMB'. At the very least, this appears to be the case on some of their offerings.
Looks like I've been sent a T57 pump and I require a T18. Have also arranged a correct cam seal.
Neato. As long as you've got it sorted and the head scratching can stop. :)
a month later
Taking the radiator to a dude tomorrow to see if it can be recored.

If not, Adrad do a core and end tanks but not an assembled radiator.
4 months later
New Gates timing belt was fitted late last year, however the timing mark for the cam sprocket is meant to point at the rocker cover gasket, rather than an actual timing mark. I'll get somebody else to double check I have it right, before refitting the cover:




The original radiator tanks and brackets have been fitted to a new Adrad core. New Tridon "high flow" thermostat fitted. Not sure if more flow through the thermostat is actually a good thing, however a mate is running one without issues. I'm really hoping this along with injectors will solve it getting hot under load.

This arrived today:


Battery tie down bracket was full of corrosion, so I've peeled off the plastic coating and cleaned it up with a wire wheel. Will treat with rust converter and paint.

Current list of jobs to be done:
Set valve clearances
Paint or powder coat rocker cover
Fit sump
Rebuild or replace injectors
Test glow plugs, replace as necessary
Test viscous fan hub operation, adjust and refill if necessary
Remove LED light bar, I don't like the look of it and no longer need it
Find and fit a decent grille
Bend the winch control box bracket, I've never liked the 45 degree angle
Replace drag link ends
Replace swivel hub seals
Delete brake backing plates
Tidy up some wiring in the engine bay
G52 gearbox conversion
Turbo stuff
Drive it

I should do something about the brakes. They work well enough now, so I could probably leave them alone. The front brakes are 4 piston with solid rotors. I'm very tempted to upgrade to the slightly larger LN106 4 piston calipers and vented rotors. Not too sure what (if anything) needs to be done with the master cylinder to make that work.

The hand brake doesn't work too well either. LN106 rear drums may fix this issue, and in theory would remove any doubt about which master cylinder to use. Assuming hand brake cables would have to be custom made.

Turbo setup will most likely be the TF035 from the Foz GT parts car on a Rock Solid Engineering manifold, simple crossover pipe, and 2.5" downpipe into the current exhaust, with a rear muffler delete.
2 months later
I'm picking up two grilles tomorrow. Apart from that, zero progress.
9 months later
Dauntless

Test fitted the turbo manifold. Anyone selling a 13C?

https://zyrex.org/gallery/d/145901-4/20191203_223405.jpg

I think i got at least one good one you can just have

      Philia_Bear

      https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/169707#Comment_169707

      I think i got at least one good one you can just have

      That would be excellent! I should be passing through on Sunday or Monday

        I found the ideal manifold design to suit the Subaru TF035/TD04, but unfortunately they're no longer made. I'm tempted to have a go at making one.

        Design looks pretty simple to replicate, though it would still take a lot longer to make than you would think.

        If you really want to use a subaru turbo why not use an adapter to the manifold you have?

        https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F133279037129

        Yeah, it would take forever to make without a jig and the right tools.

        Unfortunately there's very little clearance to the brake master cylinder and lines, so even using a thin adaptor for the 13C will mean machining down the manifold flange and modifying brake lines.

        To me its very basically done and in my pipe fitting experience , gaining flow in industrial use and having to keep swirl and obstruction for metering etc , this is a shit design for gas flow. I see its compact but that mani would be very cheap or SHOULD be considering it is crappy.

        Get the flanges , mock up an original mani to show where you want it to go in a jig and put the flanges on in place then run some bends and tube to fit with reasonable flow. Yes , takes a long time if you don't have piping experience. The difference of a novice and a pipe fitter is usually the job gets done , the novice gives up with tons of scrap....

        Get a local to make you one , look online at welding sites , teach out to a Pipey.

        You're right, but it's still better than the standard manifold and the commonly available $550 fabricated manifold.

        I doubt anyone would make one locally, and if they did it would be seriously expensive.

        May have got you the hard part, but that lets someone else build the rest...

        https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12mm-Toyota-2L-3L-5L-Exhaust-Manifold-Flange-Plate-Hilux-4-Runner-Diesel-Turbo-/323708464874

        It looks like that they're same across the L engines, so that should work...

        https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Hilux-4Runner-2-0L-2-4L-2-8L-3L-Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket/264409946352?hash=item3d900f98f0:g:C7oAAOSwCDxdyfgH
        https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Inlet-Manifold-Gasket-Toyota-Hilux-4Runner-L-Series-Diesel-Engine-17177-54021

        If it's just a log manifold, I can teach you how to either arc or mig it

        Then we can make it to use a turblet from the t6 because spool!

        a year later

        I've made some purchases, if no real progress just yet.

        16x8 -25 Black Bear wheels, need to organise paint. They'll be fitted with 265/75R16 BFG KM3s.

        R150F gearbox from an LN130 Hilux Surf, bellhousing not shown. I'll probably sell everything except the bellhousing and buy an R151F from a 1KZ/1KD Hilux/Prado and use an adaptor kit to fit an RF1A gear driven transfer case from the LN106 spec G52 I have laying around.

        4 months later

        I ended up deciding on Toyota 045 Natural White.

        a month later

        I've always wondered , are the wheels wider in offset to get wider track on most aftermarket wheels on 4wds I see? They seem to need flares added so I wondered why they just don't get wheels that fit.

        It's normally to clear steering/suspension components. Standard solid axle Hilux wheels are 5.5" wide, 0 offset. To clear the tie rods, 7" wide are normally -13 offset and 8" wide are usually -22. These do poke a little bit, so did the old 33x10.5R15s, even 9R15s on 15x7 -13 sat flush.

        My other option would be 235/85R16, but there aren't many wheel options I like.

          Dauntless

          It's normally to clear steering/suspension components. Standard solid axle Hilux wheels are 5.5" wide, 0 offset. To clear the tie rods, 7" wide are normally -13 offset and 8" wide are usually -22

          Ahh!

          Thankyou!

            After all the time and money, I'm not sure I'm liking these wheels as much as I anticipated. I'll have to drag it out of the shed and give it a wash.

            I really like the look of Wheel Vintiques 12-670604. They're 16x7 0 offset which I'm not sure would work on a Hilux. I could buy a typical Sunraysia style wheel in the same size/offset to test fit, then take the gamble. They're $150USD from Summit Racing, and freight would be an absolute killer these days.

            They're also available in 16x8 0 offset as 12-680604. Factory 80 series wheels of the same size/offset require spacers to fit a Hilux, so I doubt these would work either.

            The bright white fresh paint probably does grab the eye at the moment. After some k's to add some wear and tear they will probably fit in better.

            Otherwise, change the colour again to a grey? A quick google and i cant find an example of a sunraysia in grey, in my imagination it looks good though haha

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