jrhendo
Has anyone had a bigger radiator built for a 144? Ideally in Sydney. I've fitted a stroker to my 144 rally car and I feel the cooling is marginal with the bigger engine and the standard radiator.
paul0075
I can’t recommend someone but I had my one re-cored with a triple chamber core for a Land Cruiser and it worked a Treat. The standard Volvo one is 2 chamber and from what the radiator bloke told me would run warmer as a result
Roinik
Not in Sydney, but I had a 4 core made for mine. Most radiator places can do it.
Vee_Que
Engine oil cooler is the go to for r sport engines.
Stroker b20?
carnut222
What year is your 144? There are larger all-aluminium radiators available for the 1800s on eBay (Chinese I'm sure??) that may fit a 140. I thought some later 1800s and earlier 140s had same radiator. Somebody else more knowledgeable may be able to chime in.
Also see this thread:
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/5175/142-radiator
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-for-Volvo-Amazon-P1800-B18-B20-engine-GT-1959-1970-MT/273243970642?hash=item3f9e9c1c52%3Ag%3A6xkAAOSwNyFWcrAo&_sacat=0&_nkw=volvo+1800+radiator&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
ramrod
Have you measured temps to see what's happening with the standard radiator? You might not have an overheating problem, but every cooling system, engine, car and owner is different
Roinik
I think mine came out of a 74.
jrhendo
Answering a few of the above comments:
My car is a 1974. The radiator was rebuilt (don't remember whether 2 or 3 row) for Sydney London rally in 2014 and again for 2016 Outback Trial. No overheating issues in either with 2 litre engine.
I've got an oil cooler already. The new engine is 2.5 litres, so 25% bigger but the same size radiator. I'm sure the cooling is marginal because when I turn the heater on full, the needle drops from near the top of the N to the bottom while driving. Twin 12" (I think) thermos fans mounted about 150mm in front of the rad. They've coped ok with stops, but temperature does climb a bit.
I want to stay with conventional materials (i.e. not alloy) because we're doing Peking to Paris next year. If we have a problem in Mongolia, I reckon they can fix a brass rad, but doubt if they have TIG welders for alloy!
carnut222
You had the radiator rebuilt twice in the past 4 years? Why? I’ve never had one rebuilt so curious as to what could cause one to need to be rebuilt. Was it structural damage due to the rough rally driving, or some sort of internal blockage?
jrhendo
The first time was to prepare for the SLM. The second was because the top neck developed a very minor weep. Since it needed resoldering there, I figured getting it all checked out after the rigors of rallying to London made sense.
Vee_Que
2.5 b20? You aren't going bigger on the bore so it has the same heat dissipation.
No thoughts on an oil cooler as per Volvo r sport?
jrhendo
Not sure that I agree that only the bore controls heat dissipation - surely stroke is relevant also - more surface area exposed to the heat.
I've always run an oil cooler. Size is about 125x250x30 (a guess, I'm not now near the car) which should be adequate. It's located about 75mm in front of the radiator. That might be part of the problem (location) but I oiling find anywhere better.
ramrod
The extra half inch of stroke would likely have no effect on coolant temperature I would think. If anything it would lower it, since you have torque available at lower rpms
jrhendo
My simplistic view is that a bigger engine must put out more heat and require more cooling and my temperature gauge reading supports this. Mustangs have bigger radiators than Minis!
ramrod
Yes but your bore size is the same so the water jacket cools the same. I think your problem is external, think basics: radiator, fan, start small and fit a real temp gauge and monitor it closely for changes
jrhendo
To me the evidence is pretty clear. Turn the heater on and the needle drops a bit. Therefore the current radiator isn't up to the job.
It should be in good condition because it was rebuilt 2 years ago and gave no indication of problem with the previous engine a month ago.
The fan doesn't matter, because this is at highway speed where fan effect is negligible with a standard fan and non-existent in my case because I have electric fans.
egads
140s have uncompensated temp gauges mostly so the block emptying into the heater core will cause an instant rush of the cool water from the core to the block which will drop the gauge for a bit.
Bigger rad still sounds needed as you want to have plenty of slack in the system if you are in the middle of a rally.
Major Ledfoot
jrhendo;141566 wroteTo me the evidence is pretty clear. Turn the heater on and the needle drops a bit.
It's worth noting how the coolant temperature gauge sender is located very close to (as in almost adjacent to) the heater pipe connection on a B20 cylinder head.
I'd be looking at your oil temperatures too. B20s working hard always have high oil temps.
jrhendo
Egads and bgpzetc,
I hadn't thought about the location of the gauge sender, but from memory of an old coolant flow diagram (maybe one of Ron Kwas'?), the coolant flows to the heater from the elbow and returns via the long pipe. If that's correct, then opening the heater should just channel some of the hot water to the heater, rather than dumping cold water from the heater into the vicinity of the sender.
The effect on the gauge isn't temporary. So long as the heater is on, the needle stays lower.
I don't have an oil temp gauge: probably should, but where do you stop? I hope the oil cooler is going its job.
I brought a second radiator down to Sydney with me (and the car) today. It's off to the local radiator bloke tomorrow to get a bigger core fitted. With any luck I'll get it in the car before it goes to the dyno.
Vee_Que
On my 122, I have the factory hard line temp guage at the back of the head and an electric vdo guage at the front, turn the heater on and it does move, but the front to rear heat difference is about 5* in normal driving!
Is the engine running 92mm pistons as well? If it is. Then coolant flow is important with a 2mm cylinder wall (based on my two b20s I've measured contemplating going to 2.2).