Stage 0 1998 V70XC



  • @JeremyK has a 2.3 from later xc with reco head.
    We could go in together, I take the rest of motor you take head!

    Thanks for tagging me mate! Yes @gavinh I put a reco head on the 2.3T a few months back, engine has been out of the car for a while, think its done all of about 1,000kms since being reco'd. Has been in secure undercover storage with all ports covered so nothing damaged. Would remove it so Les can have the rest of the block if that works for you both. Let me know if that suits. I want the motor gone so going cheap haha.
    Current: 2003 V40 (T4+M56 Swap), 2002 Volvo S40 (2.0+AW55 Swap), 2000 Saab 9-5 SE, 1999 Saab 9-5 S, 1992 Mazda 929
    Past: 1996 850 CD, 1997 V70 2.5 20V (M56 Swap), 1988 240 GL Wagon, 1985 240 GL, 2000 V70 T5, 2003 V40 2.0 SE, 1999 V70 2.4T M56, 2006 XC70 2.5T AWD, 1992 240 GLE Wagon, 2002 V70 XC (M66 AWD Swap), 2004 XC70 2.5T AWD.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    @JeremyK how much you chasing for the head? I'm interested, the short block on mine is good, just dinged the pistons which will smooth off with a sand.
  • I've got I think $700 for the complete motor as it is so I was thinking if Les is interested maybe 50/50 or something along those lines... To put it in perspective it cost me $550 to have it reco'd alone, not even including the cost of the initial head....
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    @JeremyK, I have stripped the head and all the valves are good! Inlet and outlet, Much to my surprise. So sorry I won't be needing the head at this stage.
    I honestly thought there was damage after removing and seeing the piston tops on the exhaust side.
    I was able to get a top end gasket kit and head bolts from auto one while all the other auto shops said I wouldn't be able to get them locally.
    Any way here are some picts of the head and bottom end. Thanks for all the help.F6zq74Gh.jpg
  • fW7a4UKh.jpg

    Looks familiar! All good mate!
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Thanks man
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    edited July 2017
    Well I ultra sonic cleaned all the valve, springs, shims and collects, reground all the valves and put everything back together again, rotated the engine by hand 4-5 times, no crunching and relatively easy to do. Bolted the inlet and exhaust manifolds and all the other crap that goes with it.
    Done a few other things while the head was off, replaced the upper rear engine mount and rebushed the lower front mount.
    So once everything was bolted on, I turned the car over with the injectors and coil disconnected to circulate the oil, then reconnected them and guess what....It fired up first time.
    Running with a slight miss, then there was a huge puddle of oil underneath the car and realised that I had dislodged the oil return pipe from the turbo, no damage done I stopped the car soon as I noticed.
    All in all very happy with the out come.Vu9nU60h.jpg
  • Nice job. You have the job when my 2.5T blows up.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Have to admit, I wasn't looking forward to doing it, but I did enjoy the experience but don't wish to be doing it again in a hurry.
  • nickmnicko (@nickm) Sydeneee --- home of the traffic jamb, over priced coffee, and the 2000 Olympics
    edited August 2017
    Looks good. It was passing a bit of oil via valve stem seals by the look of it.
    try a sig
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Yep and not ant more, replaced all 20 of them:-. Had to use a screw driver to chisel the steel rings off them, very gentle like
  • nickmnicko (@nickm) Sydeneee --- home of the traffic jamb, over priced coffee, and the 2000 Olympics
    I just did a similar job and my oil consumption is now near zero.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Man this bloody car is trying my patience. Drove about 60km today and the coolent level warning came on, pulled over with in 2-3min of it happening.
    There was a smell of coolent and it was pissing out from under the car, so popped the bonnet and it was spurting out if the reservoir from under the cap. Just so happened to have 5 liters of coolent in the car from the headword.
    Waited 20mins for it to stop spurting every where. Mean while I checked for over pressurised coolent hoses, they were all soft enough and nothing untowards.
    Topped up the coolent and put another reservoir cap on, as I just so happened to have a spare cap in the car. I was looking at the old cap and found the rubber gasket had split. I'm so hoping that is the problem as the missus as been driving it for 2
  • AshDVSAsh (@AshDVS) - Geelong, VIC
    Caps and reservoirs are common failures - we usually have them in stock as we seem to get runs of them, all lumped together.
    Fingers crossed that the cap is the limit of the issue and everything else is good. :)
    Likes good coffee & motorsport. Builds stuff. Occasionally races stuff.
    twitter & instagram: ashd61 | w:
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    If cap no good then reservoir no good and rest of cooling system needs parts too.
    cancer sucks
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    It's been running fine since, replaced the reservoir about 4 months ago cause of glazing but the cap was original
    But will be getting a new one soon
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Got a few Gav,.
    I could post you one.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Sorry it's been a while, been really busy with other things not Volvo @Ex850R it's all good, I was able to get one locally.
    I have been busy insulating and sheeting the shed roof and sorting out the lack of lighting in the shed at the same time.
    One thing that the car has been doing for the past 3-4 years, but it's never really bothered me until I have started all this work. Is that at speed or idle the car seems to some what stumble. It feels like the ignition doesn't fire. It's not all the time just randomly. I'm assuming it would have something to do with the electrical side of things and the car drives faultlessly well aside of it being 20years old.
    Would the crank position cause this? At the end of the head beside the dizzy? Or is there somthing I have obviously missed.
    More updates will be coming in the near future, just squirreling bits away. And will try to include more photo.

  • bigalbigal (@bigal) Tasmania
    edited September 2017
    ahh the journey of continuously fixing our middle aged Volvos.. I love it. We have cars with character!

    I used to have crazy problems with my B5 audi as you described, stumbling at speed or idle.. got to the point of violent hesitation in the end.. After 2 years of the dealer not being able to fix it I sorted it myself with a new MAF sensor. Anyways, maybe not your issue but if you've run out of ideas then give that and the oxy sensors a look over.. See if the issue goes away by unplugging them.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    edited September 2017
    Well today I caught up on some more crap on the car, now that the shed is habitable for Volvo's.

    Well after the head job I done I finally got round to replacing the timing belt,(getting a pro at it now) and done the water pump, attempted the aux belt but it was about 2cm to short? So the old one went back on.

    Thought I'd replace the stat while I was at it with the crap that happened afew weeks ago. Fuck that was a shit of a job as the last owner over tightened one of the bolts and stripped the torque head. 3+ hours later new stat fitted.

    Then I fitted some subframe inserts nice and easy, about an hour piss farting around.
    Dine the fuel filter and noticed the old filter was installed the wring way round.
    Might have been me? Well it might of.
    Also done the 5k oil change and tyre rotation.

    Took her for a shake down, man she feels tight and more power, well feels like it to meB-)

    On a side note there is a picture of the 2 water pumps side by side. Notice the old one the impeller has gouged a ring into the body of the pump.

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