XC90 fuel pump replacement

edited January 2017 in Articles & Guides 314 / 23joined Jan 2016
There are plenty of guides online for this but I found them all lacking for the 7 seat version. One even suggests removing the 3rd row seats, another shortcuts this by cutting the carpet (!). Volvo says leave it in place and fold it out of the way.

The best tutorial is here volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90-9/xc90-fuel-pump-replacement-tutorial-70880/

There's a 2003-2005MY recall in the US with the Volvo replacement instructions here www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ACM14888311/RCMN-09V483-9234.pdf

Apparently the pump was designed specifically for the southern hemisphere where liquids go down the plug hole the right way. Only pumps in the US fail presumably since this natural phenomena is reversed. This explains why there is no recall in OZ.

I'm not sure how mine spent enough time in the north to cause this defect to manifest itself in a vehicle delivered to OZ (!)

Access to the pump is poor with the carpet in place and it all needs to be cleaned to prevent dirt entering the tank.

To improve access, I removed the rear floor carpet without removing the third row of seats. It needed a thorough clean back there anyway. To do this:

1 - remove the front row of bolts (3 off) 1 under each seat and 1 in the centre (visible in photo below)
2 - lower seats. The two bolts each side (rear) are just accessible with a socket if you deform the trim slightly first.
3 - loosen the rear bolts using a socket (6 off) 2 each side and 4 in the centre (visible in photo below)
4 - raise seat backs
5 - lift the front of the frame (note short extension bar in photo below)
6 - remove carpet


This added about 30 min to the whole job. Volvo Service Bulletin says 2.3 hours. I'd suggest you allow 4 for the first time with cleaning.

FCP Euro delivered the pump in 5 days (thanks Philia bear). BOSCH OEM - check your VIN chassis number.
Also order the removal tool or be prepared to invest time in manufacturing one out of a 100 DWV socket and more time making it work in the confined space.


  • 2 / joined Jan 2018
    Can you elaborate on the screw positions and count? In the rear, I assume there are 2 interior and 2 exterior screws per seat (8 total, not 6). I can't see any front screws...26bQqDhh.jpg
  • 314 / 23joined Jan 2016
    Yes its 8 not 6.
    This video shows the locations.
    Remember you only need to remove the bolts to free the carpet - not all the side trims.
  • 2 / joined Jan 2018
    Great, Thank you so much!
    I've posted pics of the slides that I think you are talking about. I also posted the slide where it talks about removing the cover to access to the 2 outside rear screws. I think that is the cover you stated you can deform slightly to gain access.

  • bigalbigal (@bigal) Tasmania
    1435 / 50joined May 2015
    Do I need to mess about with the fuel level sensor when replacing the pump?
  • bigalbigal (@bigal) Tasmania
    1435 / 50joined May 2015
    It appears I need two O-rings depending on the type of tank I have - plastic or metal.

    From FCP..

    Question: (Posted by: nxxx2@gmail.com)
    Does this fuel pump come with a new o-ring or does that need to be purchased separately?

    Answer: (Posted by: FCP Product Team)
    The Fuel Pump O-ring needs to be purchased separately. For Plastic Fuel Tanks the part number is p/n 9183708 For Metal Tanks the part number is p/n 8634839 You'll need two of whichever seal you need depending on your fuel tank.
  • 362 / 19joined Jun 2014
    You need to remove the level sensor as there is wiring and a fuel pickup that runs through the tank from the pump side.
    I usually zip tie a 1 metre length of hose to the wiring/fuel line to make it easier to re-route when fitting the new pump.
  • edited February 15 314 / 23joined Jan 2016
    Yes both need to come out to disconnect as Tim mentions. I found this part the biggest PITA. Drawing thru a draw wire was tricky due to the shape of the tank and plug on the loom.
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