calvintibia001
So this problem have been bugging me for a long time and I am out of ideas.
Background info:
1994 Volvo 940 GLE B230FB + 45v2 Turbo
AW71L
935 ECU + Ostrich
Chipped EZK
60lbs Injectors on E85
Proflow inline 400lph (Got this dirt cheap, but it's Genuine and New)
Lambda Control is Turned off
So the car is hard to Cold Start (have not yet iron out the cold start tune)
But after it starts its fine, it drives perfectly, doesn't idle hunt. AFR looks fine, just a bit rich on decel.
Maybe after like 15 minutes+ of driving, the car will randomly stall and be very difficult to start back up, when it starts back up, it wants to stall all the time. This problem was even before I did the +T and running on 98, but it was very rare back then.
I have since replace:
Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plug
Dizzy
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Ohm reading on the Coil looks good, I will soon go to LS2 Coils just need wiring done.
The problem sound Fuel related ? Will is also cause by Crank Angle Sensor ?
Please Help, Thanks so much, any input will be greatly appreciated.
-Calvinh
nickm
fuel injector relay?
calvintibia001
Is it different to the Fuel Pump Relay ?
calvintibia001
But why would it cause issues only when the car is fully warm (legit like 15-20+ mins of driving)
Philia_Bear
Sure the TPS is adjusted right and working? It would cause the exact issues described
Results of compression test?
calvintibia001
There is no fault code for TPS and checked for continunity, and TPS need adjusting ? how can i do that
Philia_Bear
calvintibia001;83816 wroteThere is no fault code for TPS and checked for continunity, and TPS need adjusting ? how can i do that
LH2.4 will only toss a TPS fault if other things are broken... its really stupid...
The circuit should be closed at idle and open the second the throttle moves off idle
if you move the throttle by hand with the engine off it should click the second it moves off the closed position, if its not clicking you have issues
The TPS has 2 little (3mm) from memory allen head screws holding it in place, if you loosen them you will be able to rotate the tps independent of the TB to adjust
egads
Quite a generic bosch tps too from memory so if you need another lots of choice at wreckers.
calvintibia001
Philia_Bear;83817 wrotecalvintibia001;83816 wroteThere is no fault code for TPS and checked for continunity, and TPS need adjusting ? how can i do that
LH2.4 will only toss a TPS fault if other things are broken... its really stupid...
The circuit should be closed at idle and open the second the throttle moves off idle
if you move the throttle by hand with the engine off it should click the second it moves off the closed position, if its not clicking you have issues
The TPS has 2 little (3mm) from memory allen head screws holding it in place, if you loosen them you will be able to rotate the tps independent of the TB to adjust
But why would it only stall when the car is super warm but doesn't do it when it's warm or cold
nickm
Relays can become thermal. So can things like the TPS.
A simple way of checking is to use ether. If it starts easier your problem is fuel if not then spark
Philia_Bear
calvintibia001;83822 wrotePhilia_Bear;83817 wrotecalvintibia001;83816 wroteThere is no fault code for TPS and checked for continunity, and TPS need adjusting ? how can i do that
LH2.4 will only toss a TPS fault if other things are broken... its really stupid...
The circuit should be closed at idle and open the second the throttle moves off idle
if you move the throttle by hand with the engine off it should click the second it moves off the closed position, if its not clicking you have issues
The TPS has 2 little (3mm) from memory allen head screws holding it in place, if you loosen them you will be able to rotate the tps independent of the TB to adjust
But why would it only stall when the car is super warm but doesn't do it when it's warm or cold
Because of how much the IAV is open depending on the reading the ECU sees from the ECT sensor (aka how warm it is)
LH2.4 tries to run a slightly higher idle when cold and this is why its easier to idle when its cold,
The Idle map is a 4 dimensional map based off ECT, TPS AMM and a fixed base map
Its actually really complex and cool which is why when its working right it works so dam well even when you put a huge cam and big injectors and big AMM into the mix
calvintibia001
Philia_Bear;83824 wrotecalvintibia001;83822 wrotePhilia_Bear;83817 wrotecalvintibia001;83816 wroteThere is no fault code for TPS and checked for continunity, and TPS need adjusting ? how can i do that
LH2.4 will only toss a TPS fault if other things are broken... its really stupid...
The circuit should be closed at idle and open the second the throttle moves off idle
if you move the throttle by hand with the engine off it should click the second it moves off the closed position, if its not clicking you have issues
The TPS has 2 little (3mm) from memory allen head screws holding it in place, if you loosen them you will be able to rotate the tps independent of the TB to adjust
But why would it only stall when the car is super warm but doesn't do it when it's warm or cold
Because of how much the IAV is open depending on the reading the ECU sees from the ECT sensor (aka how warm it is)
LH2.4 tries to run a slightly higher idle when cold and this is why its easier to idle when its cold,
The Idle map is a 4 dimensional map based off ECT, TPS AMM and a fixed base map
Its actually really complex and cool which is why when its working right it works so dam well even when you put a huge cam and big injectors and big AMM into the mix
Its usually way after the temp is fully warm, the temp needle will be in the middle after 2-3 minute of driving, but then it will stall like 10-20 minutes after the temp needle is in the middle of the gauge
Philia_Bear
Yeah... that's normal, the temp needle has 3 settings
under 55C, 55-130c, over 130c
I'm assuming stalling only at idle speed or it just cuts out when over 900rpm?
calvintibia001
It's usually stall when i am leaving from the lights or changing in Drive or Reverse from Neutral.
(Leaving the light mean I just let off the brake and give it a bit of throttle)
Philia_Bear
Could be TPS... Could be AMM could be IAV all will cause some version of that
calvintibia001
Ok, I went out to see would it start up nicely, it didn't want to fire up as usual, but after i unplug and plug back in the CAS, it started up. While I was driving home, I notice when I am at the lights, it goes super lean like 17-18, when I am slowing down to the lights it's fine, but when I am at the lights it goes lean and come back up, not every time but quite a few times when i was in stop start traffic hmmm
calvintibia001
Ok, for safety precausion, I'll replace the Fuel Pump Relay (which I have one laying around), CAS and Fuel Injector Relay. Also I'll adjust the TPS.
Where can I find a CAS and Fuel Injector Relay QUICK (coz I need to get the car done asap)
nickm
Rather than throw parts at it.
Go and get a can of "start you bastard" and at least see if the problem is spark or fuel.
calvintibia001
The problem is always so temperamental, when I check spark it's fine, sometimes i reconnect the coil wire and it works fine. Today, when I was trying to replace the fuel pump relay, I found it there was none in that spot (on the relay panel behind the ash tray) ????? The car still primes and fine, does that mean it got relocated somewhere ?
nickm
well ????? some dodgy jumper?
Have you a multimeter and a circuit diagram?