C30 C30 front lower control arm bushes recommendations

As per title - what do you guys recommend for C30 front lower control arm bushes - the rear ones. They look pretty stuffed on my 2008 R-design...clunking as well and the tyres are wearing on the inside edges. Thanks in advance! I see there are SuperPro and Whiteline poly ones...or Febi OE kit from FCP Euro for about $120AUD delivered for the pair...

How hard are they to replace? I assume you have to pull both the front and rear bush bolts out, or can you slide the rear bush off after unbolting without unbolting the front bush?

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Comments

  • @timbo

    I can't remember the details of the aftermarket xr5 part that is the "best" solution

    carnut222
  • The Whiteline kit (kca428) is awesome as it provides caster correction and improves turn in and overall steering feel. But its not the cheapest option.

    You need to remove the control arm completely and either cut/press the old bush /sleeve off the arm.

    Fitting the OE style bushes would be the most difficult out of the options, as you need to maintain the alignment relative to the arm when you press them on (the rear control arm bush doesn't pivot) its kind of preloaded once its fitted, and can be a little annoying to get the bolts started as the threads are part of the bush. They are also oil filled so if you press them in like a gorilla you can ruin the new bushes.

    The urethane bushes are easier to fit as they will pivot

    Complete replacement arms are cheap enough from sandwood trading if you want to avoid the hassle ( be aware there are 2 different ball joint taper sizes )

    carnut222
  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    Thanks for the feedback Tim. Will have a think about it. Given the arms have to be removed to get the original rear bush off, it might be worth just getting new arms. Is it easy to determine which ball joint size the car has? I was going to remove the lower ball joint when I did the CV joint boot but couldn’t get at with the ball joint tool I have (was afraid I was going to damage the boot). Sounds like it might be time to visit my friendly Volvo repair shop and send some business their way! :)

  • You can get the balljoint free very easily with a hammer it won't pop down as it's unsprung but after a couple of taps you will be able to pull it down out of the taper

    carnut222
  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    Thanks Tim. That’s good to know. Are the aftermarket arms halfway decent? I assume that’s what Sandwood will have.

  • Yeah the majority of my customers opt for the complete arms and I've never had any issues with them.

    carnut222
  • Ex850RSnoopy @Ex850R Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.

    Will the VIN number tell Sandwood what you need regarding taper size?

  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    I was also thinking that whether it has the lower/sport suspension would be important as the rear bush would probably be mounted at a different angle? Hmm...maybe the upgrade poly ones are the way to go...GRRR!

  • Ideal is for the factory bushing to be under zero torque while the car is at average weight and sitting on flat ground

    When I did the significant lowering on my s40 I ended up redoing the bushings again (dirt cheap if you have a good press) to get the alignment right for the new normal

  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    OK Sparesbox has 20% off SuperPro bushes at the moment - should I bite the bullet and get these? Note they’re the standard replacement ones, not the offset ones to adjust camber. I’m not fussed with messing with camber TBH...as I’m hoping I can just bang these in and adjust the toe-in?? My main concern is getting the ball joint out. @timbo when you said hit with a hammer and they pop out, do you hit the side of the casting where the ball joint is seated, or loosen the nut and hit the top? I thought there was a trick to hit it on the side (which is a bit counterintuitive)...


  • 240240 @240 Canberra

    @carnut222 I paid $328 for the Whiteline kit which is not significantly more than you're looking at spending there. It's not installed yet but from what Tim has told me it's worth it if you actually want to improve the steering feel.

  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    I think the steering feels fine to me, so as long as the parts last and the tyres wear more evenly than with the worn bushes, I'm inclined to go with the SuperPro?? I assume there must be a trade-off somewhere with improved steering feel (caster change) vs. maybe tyre wear? I don't drive it particularly hard so what do you reckon?

  • 240240 @240 Canberra
    edited April 16

    My understanding is that caster doesn't affect tyre wear, mainly just the steering feel as it changes the geometry of the steering relative to which part of the tyre is touching the road. But Tim would be able to give better/more accurate info than me.

    If you want to wait a bit I can tell you what difference it makes but I'll also be changing the suspension so it's probably not a fair comparison.

    timbo
  • Ex850RSnoopy @Ex850R Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.

    @AshDVS has a system for the complete set where some are Volvo original equipment and some are poly type.

    Ask the guru for pricing too.....

  • @carnut222

    Undo the nut most of the way (past the nyloc so it's just finger tight), but leave it on to protect the threads. Then hit the side of the casting where the ball joint is seated.

    Check if you can pull down on the control arm to unseat it, then hit again/harder if it's not free yet.

    You will also need to apply some pressure to the ball joint when putting it back together so it doesn't spin. Either a jack if working on the ground or lower it onto an axle stand if using the hoist

    The front bushes are usually fine to leave alone, the urethane ones can get squeaky after a while

    carnut222
  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    OK, SuperPro bushes arrived today. Yay! I got this far...trying to get my head around how to pull the old bush off the peg. I assume based on the design it must be a pretty substantial press fit...easy to press on, not so easy to press off! Anyone done it before so I don’t make the same mistakes? Also, since I bought the front SuperPro bushes as well, I prob will install them. It isn’t clear whether the original bushing shell needs to be re-used or if the tube in the control arm is the new bush surface. Should be able to pull that bush out with my bushing removal set. Need to have a look at the SuperPro website. Fun and games. The power steering hoses that run in front of the RH side front bolt - wow, that’s a great design! :) I was able to get the control arm off without removing the axle bolt or steering tie rod. Looks like it could be tight putting the ball joint back in and may need to make a special short Allen key counter-hold if the ball joint shaft turns while tightening the nut. :)


  • Your solution is as always.... FIRE!

    carnut222
  • Also you should consider the 320mm brake upgrade and some nice hoses from @AshDVS

    carnut222
  • I use an air hacksaw to cut the rubber (either side of the voids) and remove the mount. Then I cut the metal sleeve carefully with an angle grinder and tap it off the spindle.

    Alternatively there's just enough room to use a bearing separator at the end of the spindle and press the bushes off in its entirety.

    A trolley jack / or lower the car down onto an axle stand under the balljoint will allow you to tighten it up

    carnut222
  • carnut222Greg S @carnut222 Daylesford VIC

    Thanks for the feedback guys. I have a frame hydraulic press but no bearing separator plates. Might be the time to get some! :)

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