Intake manifold is different, 2.4 has a cold start injector.
The distributor is different, you will need an EZK (ignition computer mounted in inside of firewall behind glovebox) from a turbo LH2.4 740/940 and swap over the distributor from the NA to the turbo (and remove the rear of head distributor on the turbo engine). I believe some EZKs can be chipped to make them compatible with the turbo.
From memory, the LH2.4 system does not need the 850 T5 injectors and can handle a broader range of injector without the ballast resistor. The LH2.2 does not have the range to accommodate anything more than a few percent different to standard, and the 850 injector is in that range. They should work fine though if you have them.
The crank angle sensor on the back of the block will need to be swapped over, or get a new one for $30 and remove the risk of failure in the future.
Exhaust is different. I have used an IPD 240 turbo exhaust kit that is an aftermarket replica of the 240 turbo exhaust all the way to the cat converter. I had a joiner pipe made up to mate the modified 740 turbo down pipe to the factory looking exhaust. I have since been told a genuine set can be ordered from GCP for about the same money, about $400 delivered. I am part way through another turbo into a 200 and have used the Classic Swede stainless downpipe, not impressed so far as it did not really fit and it looks like it will not seal (engien not yet running). And it took 4 months and negative feedback to arrive... (yes, still a little bitter)
Do not cut the TPS wire, remove it from the back of the harness going into the ECU. Better to leave it as usable in the future than cutting.
Use the 740 bottom radiator hose, 240 top one. Using the 740 coolant reservoir mounted on the strut tower works well. A radiator shroud can be found on USA ebay for about $400 that is the genuine 240 turbo shroud. I just hit mine with a die grinder and cut 60 or so mm from the bottom and then a groove for the top hose. Does not look brilliant though much better than no shroud.
The intercooler/radiator mounting feet can be modified a little to work in the 240 frame. If the lower tabs are ground off the black plastic inserts they sit in the 240 frame and support radiator and intercooler fine. This will make sense when the turbo radiator is out. For the top mounts, sticking a small offcut of metal under the front of the 740 turbo mounts (the metal clamps that hold the radiator in place) will get the angle right to hold everything in place. Be careful with the lower hose, it needs to be right at the end of the water pump so the fan does not hit it.
Regarding the steering shaft hitting the downpipe, several options. Some swear that turning the steering shaft upside down works fine, which it probably does on many. Mine did not, so a steering shaft from a Queensland speedway shop was used. Ian Bottcher or something. 5/8 inch (or 9/16?) 48 spline and 300mm long just fits. It is a solid shaft from an '80s speedway car, works just fine with the Volvo knuckles/uni joints.
Probably more, others will join if any big items missing.
