AJ's Ferguson TEA20

DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
edited July 2019 in Non-Volvo
A mate convinced me that this should be the next project after the LandCruiser.

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It's a 1948 model, the first year of production for the TEA20. This means it has the fairly rare 1.8L 80mm bore engine.

It's original apart from:
Converted from 6V generator to 12V alternator
Lights missing
Rear 11.2/28 tyres replaced with 12.4/28
Front 19" wheels replaced with 16"
Exhaust

Work required:
Full rewire
Starter solenoid
Possibly a new starter
Brake overhaul
Paint
Probably something with the hydraulics
Reassemble rear wheels for wider track width
Most likely a full engine rebuild. This will require splitting the tractor. A rebuild kit with 85mm sleeves is available which uses the later model pistons, and is most likely what I'll use. This takes rated power from 24 to 28hp.

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SA940alphaxtimboVee_Que242GT
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Comments

  • Make sure you put a roll bar on that widow maker.
  • Splitting them is good fun, I've helped do it a while ago and my dad and brother did it again a couple weeks on my parents TEA20. It's a challenge getting everything lined up nice to slide the two halves back together. Probably ideally a 3 man job.

    My parents tractor now has a new rear main, new ring gear and new clutch. Replacement starter being organised as it was found to be flogged out in the process. Surprising how much is still available for them.
    DauntlessVee_Que
  • Angus242164Angus @Angus242164 Western Victoria
    You need to come down here at a time when the Lake Goldsmith steam rally is on, there are usually about ten of them there, including one modified for tobacco farming which is raised up about two metres, to clear the plants and spray from above.
    VolvoHordzDauntlessEx850R
  • PaddlerEdPaddler Ed @PaddlerEd New England Region, NSW
    We get a good turn out in November for the machinery show here as well.

    Check out Rural Wrecking in Inverell, they might have parts for them - if not Tom will probably know who has got some.
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    Volvo426 wrote: »
    Make sure you put a roll bar on that widow maker.
    Not planning on it, sorry.
    VolvoHordz wrote: »
    Splitting them is good fun, I've helped do it a while ago and my dad and brother did it again a couple weeks on my parents TEA20. It's a challenge getting everything lined up nice to slide the two halves back together. Probably ideally a 3 man job.

    My parents tractor now has a new rear main, new ring gear and new clutch. Replacement starter being organised as it was found to be flogged out in the process. Surprising how much is still available for them.
    Good info, thanks. What was used to support the two halves of the tractor?

    The price and availability of parts for them is definitely a major advantage. A full engine rebuild kit with sleeves and pistons is only $600.
    PaddlerEd wrote: »
    We get a good turn out in November for the machinery show here as well.

    Check out Rural Wrecking in Inverell, they might have parts for them - if not Tom will probably know who has got some.
    Thanks!

    Vee_Que
  • PaddlerEdPaddler Ed @PaddlerEd New England Region, NSW
    Dauntless wrote: »
    Good info, thanks. What was used to support the two halves of the tractor?

    Heading out to a friend's place this weekend, I'll see what tractors they've got split at the moment out there.

    They're often supported by either gantry frames or timber blocks and axle stands.
    Dauntless
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    You need to come down here at a time when the Lake Goldsmith steam rally is on, there are usually about ten of them there, including one modified for tobacco farming which is raised up about two metres, to clear the plants and spray from above.
    That sounds like a great idea!
    PaddlerEd wrote: »
    Heading out to a friend's place this weekend, I'll see what tractors they've got split at the moment out there.

    They're often supported by either gantry frames or timber blocks and axle stands.
    Cheers!

  • Ex850RSnoopy @Ex850R Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Make up a simple rhs or angle iron frame on wheels for each side.
    There's big tractor wrecker in the Stoney Rises in Victoria but maybe too far....
    Dauntless
  • I finally ordered a new starter switch and a 12v starter. Just need to get a new oil pressure gauge and we'll see what shape the engine is really in.

  • Since the Ford 2/8/9N is really a Ferguson.... switching to the Ford motor gets you to 2L

    Also the factory compression is 6:1 So swapping pistons to 9:1 makes a huge difference in power


    Also does it have a front or side mounted distributor and have you replaced the points with one of the easy to fit electronic ignition kits?

  • There are many similarities, but also many differences. The Fords use a 2L flathead engine, the Fergies from TEA onwards use a Standard OHV engine. Early ones like mine are 1850cc, later ones are 2088cc. Rebuild kits with liners and the larger 85mm pistons are very cheap. 9:1 CR pistons are also available for these, however that seems a bit too high for my liking. If it were 8:1 I'd be tempted.

    Electronic ignition is on my list of things to do, but I'll need to check which distributor it has first.

  • 9:1 is fine, considering how little fuel they use I would only be using p98 regardless

  • It'd probably be fine, but I'm still on the fence about it.

    At the moment I'd like to get it running and check the oil pressure. I want to use it for fencing in April and I know if I begin a full engine rebuild in the new year, it's unlikely to be ready.

  • Engine will probably be a rectangle or parallelogram shape.

    Kinda like this


    Ex850RDauntlessXs4Eyes
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW

    With Ryan's help I've been able to determine that the engine is engine-shaped.

    After much measuring and back and forth with the seller, I've fitted the replacement 12v starter. I haven't yet tested it. The starter switch tests fine so I didn't bother replacing or adjusting it.


    I purchased a new oil filter (Bare-co) at the same time, however was unhappy with the fitment of the supplied seals and also the clearance between the element and housing. After more back and forth from the seller I still wasn't happy, and decided to use a filter I bought around 12 years ago. This brand (Bepco) are NLA however I've since discovered Sparex carry Agrifilter elements which look similar. These also cross reference to a Ryco R205P.


    I fitted the new oil pressure line and connected it to the original gauge. I spent far too long bending the hard line into a shape I was happy with while maintaining clearance from various objects.

    I took apart and cleaned out the old fuel tap, and fitted new seals. Just waiting for the sediment bowl seal to arrive then I can reassemble to check for leaks.

    I flushed the carby and wasn't happy with the rust coloured crap that came out, so I now have a rebuild kit for that.

    My thinking at the moment is when the sediment bowl seal arrives I'll assemble the fuel lines and see if it starts. If it makes reasonable oil pressure I'll rebuild the carby and sort out the ignition system. If not I guess it's time for a rebuild.

  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW
    edited May 17

    Well, it makes noise now:

    The new starter seems to work well. Still no oil pressure indicated on the gauge, so I'll fit the new gauge and see what I get. It sounds like it has at least some oil pressure though.

    The Echlin coil was dead, so I replaced it with a Bosch coil from a random 240, cleaned the points and had spark again. I haven't touched the carby yet, and I might not need to as it seems to run pretty well.

    The alternator doesn't seem to be charging, so I'll have to look into that next.

  • Sounds pretty sweet, why am I not surprised that its straight piped haha

    Dauntless
  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW

    The SuperTrapp is sort of a muffler! Plus it's a spark arrestor and rain cap in one.

  • DauntlessDauntless @Dauntless Central West NSW

    So a while back I fitted a new oil pressure line, and the gauge still didn't move off zero. I replaced the gauge, same result. The oil line appeared to be perfectly clean on the gauge end, so I removed it to find this on the banjo end:

    Poked a hole in that, cleaned out with brake cleaner, confirmed brake cleaner flows from one end to the other. Refitted and still no reading.

    Removed the bolt and found nothing similar in my oil pressure test kit, so cranked the engine over with the bolt still removed. Oil does flow, but how much should I expect?

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