EOI 240 Turbo Conversion

13

Comments

  • Nice.

    Ideally I would change engine and tranny over in that case and wind up the boost from the 940s. Better than converting 740 +t?

    Cam
  • There's a few different ways to do it, either change the entire drivetrain or just add a turbo to your own engine like we've been talking about. That's the easier way and how I would do it but keep in mind you'll need to drill a hole in the block or the oil pan to allow for turbo oil drain. Manual or auto?
  • Auto. For the missus to drive daily.
    I like the idea of swapping the bits to the 240.

    Happy ro either swap sumps or have a hole put in it. My mechanic is an awesome fabricator so it shohld be very easy.

    Thanks again for all the advice. The 940 auto box is stronger right?
  • edited May 28
    Yes, although for a standard turbo conversion it's probably not needed. Unless you get bored and turn up the boost and do other things for more horsepowers then you would want the AW71 to replace the 240 AW70

    Also the turbo has the same sump as a non turbo, the drain is into the block just above the sump
  • Ok copy that. Thank you again. The pucture helps a lot.

    Ill chase the 940 and see how I get on. I like the sound of just plugging in the ecus and extending a few wires here and there and adding a few sensors.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    edited May 28
    I have an exhaust manifold and td05 12b available if needed in decent condition.

    There's a bit of confusion here.

    Block needs a hole drilled at the boss where turbo motors use, some people swear by doing the sump with a bung, but I find that they leak more than when drilling the block.

    You can get a chip to use any chippable ignition ecu but have to use a turbo fuel ecu.

    Changing cam will be of benefit too.

    Water cooling a petrol turbo is always preferred, OEMs do things like that for a reason.
    Ex850Rtimbo
  • I have an exhaust manifold and td05 12b available if needed in decent condition.

    There's a bit of confusion here.

    Sump needs a hole drilled at the boss where turbo motors use, some people swear by doing the sump with a bung, but I find that they leak more than when drilling the block.

    You can get a chip to use any chippable ignition ecu but have to use a turbo fuel ecu.

    Changing cam will be of benefit too.

    Water cooling a petrol turbo is always preferred, OEMs do things like that for a reason.

    I think you mean to say the Block needs a hole drilled. Not the sump
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    Of course. Now fix your quote :)
  • Thanks Egads. Thats the kne Im hoping to precure. Fingers crossed it can happen.

    I think a full engine and tranny swap looks like the go. Its probably not ‘that much’ extra work than swapping that bits over. Its also a later block thats l factory turbo which I like the sound of when down the pub...
    egads
  • I would definitely swap the Transmission to at least an AW71. I plus T'd my wagon just recently and have been driving it for a couple weeks now. The AW70 is on borrowed time. Very slippery between changes when running just 4psi. I've upped to 7psi now and I don't think it'll last for much longer. Having said that the car is an absolute blast to drive! and I've got a spare aw71 ready to go in when she blows! :lol:
    cjqrx9fx8isu.jpg
    tdo5 12b with -90 manifold and @Vee_Ques intercooler @ 7psi with 940T computers and 850 orange top injectors.
    The car feels like it has doubled it's power at the wheels.. at least in the low-end.
    DauntlessCanoeVee_Que
  • Awesome! Thanks for posting that up.

    I will swap the tranny also to put my mind at ease. Its great to have some solid feedback.

    The 940 Im looking at I think I may miss out on so watch this space. Im getting married this week so its all a little hectic!

    Cam
    buddyglitch
  • Righto Ive secured the 940s. Sight unseen so fingers crossed its all there. Lowish Ks and some seevice history. Have to now get it from Melb to Syd. Transport is about 660 door to door which is not bad.

    Now I have to store the bloody thing as the mechanic is packed for a month and the car came sooner than expected.

    Pretty excited.
    egadsbuddyglitch
  • Ok. Wedding out of the way, back onto the project.

    Ive managed to have my mechanic ‘think about it over the weekend’ and take on the engine swap.

    Issues
    1. Do the intercooler/fan cowel and radiator swap over from the 940 or do we mix and match to make it work?

    2. Do I swap the looms or just plug in the computers and use the NA loom?

    3. Do I need 850 orange injectors considering im using the 240 loom or can I use the FK ones? (Or does this depend on swapping the loom?)

    4. Aside from the MAF wiring is there anything else that needs adding, plugging in, wired up for it to drive as it should?

    5. Are there any parts from the 940 worth keeping for the 240 once the engine is sorted?

    6. Thanks in advance.
  • edited June 6
    1. The radiator is the same, but mounted differently. Make sure you keep the top and bottom intercooler mounting brackets from the 940. The top ones will have to be bent a bit to make a proper fit. You'll also have to cut the 940 radiator hoses on the end that connects to the radiator as they will be a bit too long for the 240 engine bay.

    The fan situation is annoying. Once the radiator is mounted, it sits a bit higher and the shroud no longer fits around the fan properly. I love the nostalgic "woosh" and reliability of the clutch fan, so opted to keep mine and modify the shroud to work. A bit of work, but probably no more than fitting an e-fan, and it arguably cools much more effectively. Used a grinder and very steady hand to shorten the shroud and then cut out the parts where the fan hits. it looks stock
    zesu318lkeew.jpg

    2. Computers plug straight in.

    3. 850T injectors are a higher impedance injector which is great because they slot right in, no need to wire in resistor packs etc. Make sure your FPR is rated 3.0 bar, too. My 240 was fitted with a 2.5bar.

    4. Probably wire in a boost gauge. Even if you intend to run it stock psi, just for piece of mind and troubleshooting etc.

    5. I would find a way to keep the 940 intake and airbox, and install it in the 240. You might need to swap the coolant bottle and delete the washer bottle to make room. I made a custom intake with conical k&n style filter, but the cbv and induction sound is really loud. I've noticed a lot of turned heads!
  • Great advice. Just what I was looking for.

    The fan mod seems fairly straight forward. Pics paint 1000 words so thanks for that. I also prefer a good fitting cowling.

    Where are the FPR is a 240? I will have the 940 one if I can swap it out.

    Ill have an EBC from turbosmart. I use one my Xantia Turbo and it works very well.

    Ill get on the hunt for a set of injectors.

    Did you swap an engine or +t? What loom/wiring did u go with?

    Cam
  • DCW242Duncan (@DCW242) - point cook. victoria
    edited June 6
    I have a set of 850T injectors available
  • Ah yeah sorry forgot you were swapping engine, not +T. Mine is a +T. I would keep the 940 engine harness and see if it's compatible with the 240 loom. it's lh 2.4 so i imagine it probably would be. Maybe someone else can chime in who's done the swap.
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