'Vivian' 1979 242GT

Paul_Roodenrys · 2018-11-15T11:07:33+00:00

Good luck with the build. I'm glad that you are going to use a Volvo motor in Vivian. While I can marvel at the abilities of people to put all sorts of m...

Paul_Roodenrys

Hello James and thanks for asking. The worlds slowest B230ft swap is progressing very... slowly! I've been collecting the bits I need ( Haltech boost controller, Wide band O2 sensor and LS coil were the last things I bought) I've been slowly working out the harness and I'm reasonably confident I know where everything goes. I need to do something about an exhaust and think I may go with a JT Tuning system from Martellius. I'm undecided about the cold air intake, I'd like to use a 740T air filter box if I could get one, I'm also seriously considering swapping the standard fan for an electric set up. Not a lot to do I just need to get started again. One of my main problems is I get distracted by other projects, I'm halfway through swapping everything from a DR650 Suzuki with a damaged frame that I bought cheap (before realising the frame was buggered) onto a good frame and don't mention the never ending renovations on my old house... I'm still committed to Vivian though and hope to see her running before Christmas and on the road next year. I wish I had the drive and focus that some of you fellows have here! I am heartened though to read the non Volvo threads and realise I am not the only one afflicted by this disease.

Paul_Roodenrys

robv

I have a Haltech 550 in my 242 turbo, I used the yoshi fab crank/cam sensor, Vw coil with wasted spark and sequential injection. For what it’s worth my tuner encourages wasted spark as he believes it gives more mid range torque.

i put in an sr20 tune and it fired 1st go

Paul_Roodenrys

robv
I have a Haltech 550 in my 242 turbo, I used the yoshi fab crank/cam sensor, Vw coil with wasted spark and sequential injection. For what it’s worth my tuner encourages wasted spark as he believes it gives more mid range torque.
i put in an sr20 tune and it fired 1st go

Hello Rob, I'm hoping you can give me some information regarding installing the Yoshifab adapter and CAS sensor. Does it just slip in in place of the distributor, wire it up and the sensor does the rest or is there more to it?

I'm hoping to push the car back into the shed for the last time and then be able to drive it out. Any tips would be very much appreciated.

Paul_Roodenrys

Hello Rob, thanks for the tip about the sr20 tune. I am getting closer, spending plenty of time working out what goes where and which wires does what job. I had considered the Yoshifab crank and cam sensor and would like to go to that set up eventually. I decided to use the dizzy because of cost in the end.

Paul_Roodenrys

I've finally gotten Vivian back in the shed and started to seriously wire in the Haltech, most of it is fairly plain going as the harness is labelled and even I can figure out that two wires bundle together and labelled 'Coolant sensor' probably should go to the coolant sensor. Haltech also offer excellent tech support and it is easy to speak to an actual person who knows what they are doing. Their range of videos is also very helpful.

I do need help identifying some wires from the LH2.2 dizzy. Their are three: green , yellow and black. The Haltech loom has a thick 'trigger' lead with red wire being +12 v, blue wire being the signal ground and yellow crank wire being + trigger. There is a green - trigger wire that isn't used. My question is which dizzy wire connects to what Haltech wire. I assume black is the ground so would join to blue, green +12 v and yellow + trigger. I've searched the net for wiring diagrams but haven't been able to find what I need.

Major Ledfoot

According to the wiring diagram, the 3 wires coming from the LH2.2 dizzy connector should be -

Black - Pin [1] - ground (shielded)

Blue - Pin [2] - Signal

Red - Pin [3] - +12V

ETA: Since these colours don't match your picture, it might be worth getting a multimeter and seeing which wire goes where on the 3-pin connector.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thankyou Capt. Ledfoot, the Haltech loom has:

a red wire which is 12 Volt+, a blue wire which is signal ground and a yellow which is crank (trigger)

so while red goes to red, the big question is does blue go to blue and yellow go to black or is it the other way round?

Also, how do I know which is pin 1, assuming the middle pin is pin 2?

I'm assuming the dizzy is a Bosch?

Thanks again for your reply,

Paul

Major Ledfoot

It's impossible to tell from your picture which wires on the dizzy plug go to which pins.

The way your plug is wired in the picture is non-standard.

The pin numbers should be visible on the plug.

Below is an extract from the wiring diagram Green Book.

Near as I can figure -

Haltech Blue should go on pin [1]

Haltech Yellow should go on pin [2]

Haltech Red should go on pin [3].

Paul_Roodenrys

Thank you very much, I'm waiting for a new connector from EFI hardware before I can wire it in but even at my snails pace I'm making progress. Unfortunately the exhaust system is still a few months away but I might be able to rig up the wideband sensor so I can hopefully fire it up. There is some relatively tricky wiring (for a novice), wiring in power for the wideband sensor and the switched 12 volt into the key barrel loom. Slow and steady I suppose. Thanks again for your diagram and help.

Paul_Roodenrys

Progress is slow but I'm getting closer to having the Haltech wired up. Most blokes would get this done in an afternoon. It takes me that to wire up one injector. I'm currently attempting to wire up the fuel pump which is pretty straightforward. Unfortunately I've forgotten how to remove the rear seat and seat back so I can run the wire. Instructions would be very much appreciated.

carnut222

Paul_Roodenrys
Progress is slow but I'm getting closer to having the Haltech wired up. Most blokes would get this done in an afternoon. It takes me that to wire up one injector. I'm currently attempting to wire up the fuel pump which is pretty straightforward. Unfortunately I've forgotten how to remove the rear seat and seat back so I can run the wire. Instructions would be very much appreciated.

To remove the seat bottom cushion, you have to push rearward and down on the base of the cushion to unhook the wire frame from two clips located about 1/4 way in from the side of the cushion, then pull up on the front...this is going on memory from doing it on a 93 240 sedan, which I believe is identical. Much easier with the front seats out (hopefully that's the case).

For the seat back, there are 2 metal tabs on the wheel arches that need to be folded up, and there may be a clip at the centre holding the wire frame to the body. once the bottom cushion is removed, you'll see. The seat back is also hooked in at the top near the parcel shelf, so it has to be lifted straight up to disengage those hooks.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks Carnut, I appreciate the help. The front seats are still in but I will need to take them out to run the wire properly.

The nest job after that is wiring a 12 volt wire from the Haltec loom to the 'on' wire at the ignition switch. Any tips on the best way to go about that would also be very much appreciated. I need to know which colour wire to look for and the best way to get to it.

I'm beginning to think Vivian will be back on the road in time for the electric car revolution.

Thanks again for the instructions.

carnut222

With respect to wiring the Haltec to the "on" wire at the ignition switch, I would think your best bet would be to tap off one of the fused circuits that's on with the ignition switch - much easier to get power there than from the switch wires themselves...and usually there's a spare spade terminal on one of the fuses that would be suitable - could use for example the rear demist fuse or something else that's powered with the ignition in the on position.

Paul_Roodenrys

That is an interesting idea, the Haltech 'how to' video specifically says to use the on wire at the ignition but I will follow up your suggestion. It sounds like a much tidier easy way to go.. Once again, a big thank you for your help.

Major Ledfoot

You'll want the rail that still has +12V when the ignition switch is in KP3 (start) as well as KP2 (run).

One rail which has +12V at KP2 doesn't have juice at KP3. This has caught folks who've done engine swaps and it won't start, because eventually they work out that the coil isn't getting any juice in KP3.

Roinik

The fuse box on the 80 has a suitable terminal on fuse #12. I used that one for the same purpose on the LH2.2 conversion.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks for the advice Ledfoot, the Haltech video goes into some detail about that but finding the correct wire is a bit daunting. On the video he uses a power probe which looks like a good bit of kit but expensive for one job.

Hello Ian and thanks for the tip, using Number 12 terminal is a very attractive idea, easy to get to. In your opinion would I just connect the 12 Volt from the Haltec ECU to the wire running from the terminal or actually splice it in to that wire while leaving it in place? My very limited understanding is that the fuse for the Haltec wire will be in the Haltec fuse box so I could bypass the Volvo fuse completely and just use the wire that runs from it to the ignition. Many thanks to you both for your help.

carnut222

If I were doing it, I'd tie the Haltec wire into the RH side of the fuse panel (as Ian said #12 fuse if that's suitable). There should be spade connections free on that fuse...and if not, use a splice connector that has a female and male spade on it to provide the extra spade if necessary. If you were to run the Haltec wire to the other side of the fuse, that wire would be unfused...

Roinik

Check out my wagoon thread. There is a picture showing the red/black wire on the 8A fuse terminal. The rear terminal is the power source and the top 2 terminals are after the fuse. As long as the Haltec ECU demand is under 8A you should be ok (quite likely).

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks Greg for the suggestion I've had a look and both terminals are taken, thanks also In, I've looked at the picture and it is very helpful. I'll talk to the tech people at Haltech who are very helpful (and patient) to see if there are reasons I shouldn't try to wire it up this way. It will either work or not I suppose but I don't want to risk damaging the ECU. Thanks again for the advice, it is very much appreciated.

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