Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-M46

More bits and pieces. I've been plundering my stash of wiring harnesses to come up with bits for the E-fan, driving lights etc. Trying to figure out the best way to add more accessory power circuits up near the battery. Thinking maybe I can just double-up the power distribution thing (the one with all the power wires being fed from the thick feed off the battery terminal). My one concern is fusing…I have some options there. I typically tap off that then use a blade fuse to whatever relay needs power, but it just gets a bit messy with multiple relays. I guess I can cover it up like I did on the yellow 245.

Also my stubby 70 mm silicone elbow arrived this morning, so I fitted that and measured up for the K&N filter. Got one ordered that will fit (mock-up pic below). Later I'll need to think about an air baffle to prevent it from sucking hot engine bay air, but that's not a super high priority as I want to get it going for the VIC Club's 10th May 50th anniversary 240 photo shoot at Shannons HQ.

arebee See my comments on the Bruces thread here: https://ozvolvo.org/d/30685-bruces-jive-in-2025/160

More bits and pieces today…routed the two E-fan relay signal wires from the ECU to up near the battery, and also ran the wire for the driving light relay trigger. I was worried I wouldn't be able to fit an additional 3 wires through the corrugated accessory wiring dash pass-through tube, but it worked out OK. Not sure I could squeeze in another as I already have 3 cruise control wires, 1 ambient temp sender wire, and a wire each for the oil pressure gauge sender and oil temp gauge sender, plus a small tube for the boost/vacuum gauge.

Close to having the temporary E-fan relay set up and wired in (will use the driving light relay trigger so I can manually switch the fan on and off with the driving light switch). This temporary measure will be just for test drives until my proper electric fan relay set-up arrives from the USA.

Also finished up the driving light wiring from relay to lights (yesterday). Ordered a couple HD blade relay holders as well, since I need one for the lights and possibly the air horns (I had a look and currently it doesn't appear I have a fuse on the relay feeding the horns). It's all getting very congested up behind the battery. I'm glad I went for the 93-style integrated power steering pump/reservoir as at least I can mount relays on the front of the coil bracket where the remote PS reservoir used to sit.

I noticed the clutch pedal hits the plastic push-pin fastener for the under-dash hush panel, so I will need to relocate that slightly as it prevents the clutch pedal from being depressed to the floor (and/or twists the push-pin in the process). I've temporarily removed the fastener until I figure out the best route (maybe just a zip tie…just thought of that now.)

Finished wiring up the driving light switch today, and tested the electric fan (using driving light switch to trigger a 50-amp Cartier ex-SAAB relay). Fan works fine on low and high speeds. I'm not 100% sure if low speed is +12V to green wire and high speed is +12V to red wire only, or high speed is +12V to both red and green wires on the fan…I'll let the OE Volvo relay do whatever is appropriate once it arrives.

Also messed with washer bottle…the original bottle with 2 pumps will fit in the rear side pocket, but my preference is to put a small bottle up front so I don't have to mess with running wires all the way to the rear. I ordered one of these 3-way solenoid valves, as I figure I can use the compact 1800ES/early 240 wagon rear style integrated pump/bottle setup with the solenoid valve. The valve would be triggered by the rear washer +12V to switch the flow from the front tube to the rear. We'll see how that works and if I can even fit it all in once the pod filter arrives (should be here tomorrow).

OK, the K&N pod filter arrived this afternoon, so I took the car for its first test drive. Two issues (so far). First the turbo oil drain pipe is too close to the steering shaft knuckle. I knew this would be an issue, but wasn't quite prepared for how it would make itself known (engine tilts toward steering shaft under full throttle acceleration, and steering shaft U-joint coupler bolt hangs up on drain pipe preventing the steering wheel from being turned to the left. Hmm, NOT good. Must resolve…need to look at whether flipping the collapsible bit of the steering shaft would make any difference or not…need to see where that would put the shaft and U-joint in relation to the pipe. If that isn't a resolution, then I will have to revise the drain pipe (either go with a flex hose and AN fittings, or maybe one from a B21FT if it fits? I assume the B21FT drain pipe runs closer to the block as the 740T B230FT pipe seems to route differently (probably to clear the remote/rear mount oil filter).

Second, on my 2nd acceleration run from a full stop, I lost all clutch and couldn't shift into 3rd gear. Why? all new clutch slave, master, hose, fork, throw-out bearing etc. More investigation required. It was dodgy the first time I started the engine, but Dad and I re-bled the line and some air came out, so I assumed it was "fixed". However, I noticed at the beginning of the test drive that the clutch started to engage almost immediately after I started lifting the pedal off the floor…so seems like something was a bit off at that point. The only thing I can think of at this stage is there's air in the line, the clutch master seal is blown (new part?) or the slave piston travelled too far and ejected fluid, but I see no fluid, and the slave piston is still there. Final thought is do I have the correct clutch pivot ball. I know there's several stand-off lengths. I didn't change it as I have a 740T gearbox, dished flyweel, standard 740T clutch plate, disc and t/o bearing. Clutch master is 740T. Clutch slave I believe is slightly different design, but seems to fit perfectly. Not sure why I have so much trouble with clutch hydraulics (see dramas on the "barn find" 79 245!)

Anyway, it's no XC40 Recharge Twin!

More to follow once I have time to investigate further.

First pic is one I took before gearbox went in showing how the turbo drain pipe is close to the steering U-joint. 2nd pic ignore the mess of wires behind the battery. Most of that is the temporary relay set-up for the E-fan. Will be tidied up and covered. 3rd pic shows how the pod filter sits. I'll need to make a support off the bottom of the short joining pipe (currently the whole thing is zip-tied to the coolant bottle bracket).

Major Ledfoot Yep…I had read about it…and now I know why it's a thing! I think the upper U-joint is longer and lower one is shorter, so if you rotate the whole shaft end for end, it would push the whole shaft forward a bit, which I think would help give more clearance. I had originally thought that people were just rotating the rubber isolated main shaft bit end for end to put the fat end at the bottom, but that wouldn't help my clearance issue as the issue is the u-joint and bolt, not the shaft itself. Hmm…we'll see!

jamesinc Yeah that could be an option. I'm giving it a rest today as we're going to Geelong for lunch and to check out some more new cars.

I had a quick look and can't see anything wrong with the clutch slave (no leakage) and pedal linkage is connected to clutch master, so either the clutch slave or master must be bad? No apparent loss of fluid. I have a good used slave, but not a master. Both parts were brand new, so yeah, guess it could be a defect. You'd think if either one was bad, there would be fluid at either the pedal pushrod or the clutch fork pushrod…

Still need to determine what exactly is fouling in the steering - could also be up against the downpipe, but I thought that had much more clearance than the oil drain pipe.

What's wrong with this picture? The new quality gauges coming out of VDO India…

OK, I delved into the clutch issue today. Turns out the new slave cylinder had a shorter pushrod, so when I was pushing the clutch, the slave piston was moving too far and at one stage I exuberantly pushed the clutch pedal a bit too far, pushing the piston so far that the seal no longer sealed, and boom, fluid loss and no clutch. Of course I had removed the slave cylinder to inspect after I saw fluid around the pushrod…had I known what I know now, I could have just swapped the pushrod and re-bled the line and been on my way without getting covered in brake fluid. Lesson learned.

On the steering issue, none of the steering shafts I have are any different than the one on the car already, and just playing with the shaft orientation and/or U-joint positions isn't going to help. What I think would do it is if I used 2 short U-joints and an aftermarket splined shaft, that would give me more clearance at both the downpipe and the oil drain pipe. The car currently has a short aluminium upper U-joint and a long cast iron lower U-joint. The flared section of the rubber isolation joint is fairly close to the downpipe currently, and no amount of flipping and changing would resolve both issues. So now I need to measure the shaft and figure out if the Coleman 119-112 generic 12 inch long 19mm-48spline shaft would be long enough. I'll need a shaft that's longer than the original one due to using the shorter U-joint at the bottom. Worst case I MIGHT be able to use the same length shaft and a short U-joint on the bottom, and long on the top, but I think that might be too tight at the downpipe. Hmm…time to measure my shaft!

Major Ledfoot Yes I posted it back and they said they will send a new one. I said "open the box and make sure the needle is somewhere near zero" and they said "will do"…LOL

OK I ended up ordering a generic steering shaft from Ian Boettcher race parts in QLD. I went with the Sweet 12-inch one, which may work if I stick to a short and a long U-joint. I found a slimmer cast steel long lower U-joint in the shed (I was wrong about my existing one being steel/iron - it is in fact aluminium). The aluminium ones are a lot bulkier at the ends (squared off) and have bolt and nut set-up with a clip, which protrudes a lot more from the body of the U-joint. The steel ones just a bolt that's screwed into a tapped bit on the U-joint, with only a small protrusion for a hairpin clip. Once the shaft arrives, I can play around and see whether I can put the long U-joint on top, and short on bottom. Ultimately, I may have to go with 2 short U-joints, in which case I'll have to order a longer 18 inch shaft from Coleman in the USA.

My waterproof fuse holders arrived so I need to get cracking on my driving light relay wiring and tidy up the air hor wiring. I should also be working on the baffling for the airbox while waiting for the steering shaft.

I checked the throttle position switch terminal 3 is definitely going from open circuit to earth at full throttle, so the Turbo+ kit should be getting that. I guess I need to check the solenoid valve function, and run through the rest of the potential wiring issues. Not a high priority at the moment.

Why didn't somebody pick up on my mistake with the steering shaft U-joints? Can you see it? The steering U-joints have a different design at each end of the joint. On the steering rack/steering column end, they are designed such that the bolt slides into a groove in the shaft, preventing the U-joint from moving (much) on the spline as long as the bolt is in position. On the steering shaft end of the joints, there's a tang on the shaft and a machined-out notch in the corresponding U-joint casting…the tang prevents the U-joint from sliding off the shaft as long as the bolt is in position, but allows the U-joint to be positioned along the shaft before tightening the bolt (the bolt is completely clear of the splined area). Sooo, if U look at the pic below, you'll see that I can't do anything meaningful to the angle or position of the shaft by swapping the U-joints from bottom to top, as the long portion of the one shaft is on the shaft side, not the rack/column side. The only other option is, with this new aftermarket shaft, I might be able to flip the long U-joint 180 degrees and put the "wrong" end on the steering column side, since the new shaft has a groove machined in it, which would be similar to the Volvo's rack/column ends. Hmmm, a lot of words that translate to BUGGER! It's possible that with the new shaft, and the short U-joint used at the bottom, that will give me enough clearance to the turbo drain pipe even though it won't actually reposition the shaft as such…it will move the U-joint end fitting farther down the shaft, which would probably give me 15 mm more clearance than I have now (about 10 mm). Also. getting rid of the 2-piece rubber isolated "fat" shaft will also give me about another 10-15 mm clearance at the downpipe. If I can get 25 mm clearance all around I'll be happy. Wait and see!