'Sven' the big, bad, yellow 245

perko · 2014-04-22T07:09:30+00:00

I want that Blue Volvo for life bag....

perko

Almost there...
Wiring is (I think) finished and all that remains is to fix a water leak where the return piping comes into the water pump and buy a new end for the battery lead after my brother snapped one in half trying to be helpful.

My new gauge turned up as well

Can measure everything that needs measuring and a few things that don't so should come in handy

perko

It runs!

Spent the last few days chasing wiring issues, first the starter wouldn't crank, I could hear the solenoid clicking over but no go. Pulled it out and jumped the terminals directly and it span, then hooked it up again and worked perfectly, no idea what the problem was there.

Problem no. 2 was the fuel pumps. I forgot to get the proper relay from the 740, initially I thought this would be fine as I could use the 240 one but it turned out that the kjet relay requires a low signal from the ecu to run them, which I obviously didn't have. In the end I wired them up with a standard type relay so that they come on when there is ignition power and a ground at the ecu. Not the most optimal solution but it works for now. I'll probably try get the proper lh2.2 relay at some point.

I now had fuel at the rail (I could hear the fpr open when I first switched the pumps on) and spark (tested grounding against the block) but still no start. Since the car was running when I bought it (we drove the 740 out to the workshop to remove the engine) I could probably rule out mechanical failure and dud sensors were somewhat unlikely, leaving the most probable problem being my wiring. After going through the ecu pins and checking voltages everywhere it turned out that one of the grounds had become disconnected inside a plug. With that back in I cranked it over and after a couple of pops it fired right up, sounds like a tractor with no exhaust but the spool is ridiculous.
On a slightly sad note the battery finally gave up the ghost after the first start so wasn't able to get a video.

Oil and water leaks are fixed (I think) so taking it down for an exhaust on Monday and hopefully drive and fix the little niggles after that. Pretty happy at this point.

perko

https://facebook.com/sam.perkins.1232/videos/1157912644219361/

serk

That thing sounds mean as! Nice work

Klaptrap24

holyyyyyyyy crap it sounds mad

perko

Finally got it back from the exhaust shop yesterday. Went with 2.25" downpipe into 3" exhaust with a single resonator. Not overly loud but not too quiet either so super happy with that. Am now having other problems however, chief among those is a major oil leak from the turbo return. At first I thought it was a pcv issue since there is positive pressure at the oil cap however it seems that this is due to the fact the breather box vents through a filter to atmosphere rather than a major blockage since I replaced the breather box with a known good one from the other motor.
Will have to pull off the oil drain tonight and try get a new o-ring for it, hopefully that solves my problem.

In other news, the dose on this thing is ridiculous, even at tiny boost it sounds like a whole flock of birds are stuck in the engine bay when I lift off. Once the oil leak is fixed I'll grab a proper video.

jamesinc

How come a 2.25" downpipe? Usually you'd go the other way and do a 3" down into a 2.5" catback.

Otherwise

perko

Turbo is 2.25" at the exit, so that combined with the lack of clearance round the steering column meant that keeping the dp at 2.25" made life a bit easier.
Long term plan is bigger turbo on a high mount mani so going 3" after the dump means I don't have to touch the rest of the exhaust ever again.

perko

Some progress made, most notably the super legit washer bottle

Looks stupid but it works which is what matters.
Have spent most of the rest of my time chasing little (and big) niggles to get it to a driveable state.
Turbo drain oil leak was fixed with the help of some generous rtv application, however there's now a leak from the oil cooler line adaptor, I'll try tighten it a little for now then pull it off and whack some thread sealant on when I do the first oil change.
The spare coolant reservoir I had turned out to have a leak so was swapped for the one I took from the 740. I also spent a bit of time chasing air leaks and adjusting the throttle cable bracket (it seems that kjet cables are shorter than lh) which has it almost running reasonably.
It now drives ok at low revs and pulls hard on boost but has a major hesitation between the two. Plugs are jet black so I'm suspecting either a failed sensor or another air leak somewhere.

Last but not least, the steering rack has decided that now is an appropriate time to pack it in so time to find a new rack for it as well. Have disconnected the pump so that I can drive it round the block to test other stuff for the time being.

jamesinc

@perko, I found the bottle from a Fairlane fit pretty well. I'll take a photo when I get home. It fits in the same location as the stock bottle, but it's much smaller.

perko

The neverending saga of broken parts continues...

The good:
-Steering rack replaced with a reco unit, car now steers better than ever
-Hesitation and bad running fixed by replacing a melted plug in the wiring
-Coolant leak fixed

The bad:
-Major pcv blockage (I assume) means that oil is coming out the filler cap and dripping onto the exhaust manifold
-Oil cooler sandwich plate is loose and leaking oil
-Despite adjusting the throttle cable so that I can hear the tps click down to idle position idle is at ~1300rpm
-Really bad tapping noise is now coming from the top end. Barely noticeable at idle or cruise (no louder than usual redblock tick) but once there's load it becomes very noticeable. Happened very suddenly so unsure about what it could be, current possibilities are valve clearance and piston slap, I'll pull the valve cover and have a look next time I get a chance.
Will be super annoyed if it does turn out to be slap, since I'm not that keen to be swapping engines again but that's life sometimes I guess. Worst case is I put the b23e bottom end in with the 530 head as a temporary fix.

jamesinc

Hey swap the filler cap with one of the metal units from a B23. I had the same issue with my old 740, cleaned the pcv who knows how many times, but in the end? Plastic filler cap was slightly bent, couldn't seal evenly.

Vee_Que

Fwiw, you actually want bigger than the turbo outlet to increase speed and flow out of the turbo, going to a bigger size downpipe does wake the motor up. Too late.

perko

Vee_Que;75167 wroteFwiw, you actually want bigger than the turbo outlet to increase speed and flow out of the turbo, going to a bigger size downpipe does wake the motor up. Too late.

I originally asked for 3" all the way but was told by the exhaust guy that going bigger than the turbo exit was pointless. When I eventually go for high mount mani and bigger turbo I'll go bigger on the downpipe.

As for the speed and flow, bigger dia means either slower velocity for the same mass flow rate or greater mass flow at the same velocity. Most likely is the second option since the double bend probably gives fair restriction to the flow and doesn't flow as well as the turbo is capable of (i.e. max flow rate of turbo > max flow rate of mani)

perko

Almost at the end of my list of things to fix today:

- Swapped filler caps which fixed that leak, I'll clean the area around the filter to check if there's any others but I think it's mostly sorted
- Idle returned to normal after adjusting the idle air screw in from full lean
- Current drain that had been killing batteries turned out to be a stuff up on my part when I wired the ballast resistors and iac to permanent power. Only found that this when I was working today while the builders next door were on lunch break and heard a high pitched hum in the engine bay with the battery connected.
I suspect I've killed the iac doing this though as there was no change in idle when I grounded the test pin meant to be used to set the baseline idle mix.

Now remaining:

- Find and fix tapping noise
- Finish installing gauge senders for water and oil temp, oil pressure and o2
- Drive

perko

Long time without an update and it seems that things are getting worse rather than better.

-I have a major oil leak from the front thrust plate which is (I think) caused by excessive blowby.
-Wiring still needs to be tidied up
-Tapping noise seems to be very bad piston slap. The tick at idle goes away as it warms up but it still makes noise when under load once it's warm. Hard to do much testing as I'm trying to keep the oil inside the motor.

At this point I'm honestly considering drilling and tapping the b23 block for an oil return and running the 530 head with turbo attached on that. It'll be a big job and a bit sketchy running much boost on a high comp motor but I know that the bottom end is solid.
Buying dodgy second hand shit is starting to really give me the dirts.

Slowbrick

How is your PCV system hooked up? Do you have the breather box attached to the side of the block and then have the 3/4 tube plumbed into the turbo inlet? Short of having shot rings you shouldn't be getting such a large amount of blowby. I've driven around in a 740 turbo that had 415000kms and it didn't smoke or rattle. Your engine is telling you that something is not right. Is there smoke coming out of the oil dipstick tube when the motor is running?

perko

Yep, breather box with 3/4" tube to pre turbo inlet. Box is clean and tubing is new. I previously had it venting to atmosphere (through a filter) and no change.

Shot rings looking likely, did a quick comp test and #2 was ~130 initially then jumped to ~150 with oil down the bore.
Need a new comp tester to do #3 and 4 since mine is not the flexy hose type.
No dipstick tube smoke but oil also coming out of the filler cap seal.

Slowbrick

No dipstick smoke is a good sign. How good is the rubber seal on the oil cap. They can and do leak when they get old. The cam throws around quite a bit of oil. Is the knock a dull thud or a higher pitched clack? Does it drive ok or does it feel crappy?

perko

Plastic oil cap was swapped for metal b23 version with good seal.
Totally fails oil cap pressure test, has a decent amount of positive pressure at the cap.

Drives nicely, pulls well on and off boost and plugs are good colour.
Noise has two parts. The normal ticking at idle that goes away once it's warm and a metal on metal clack any time it's under load. The clacking improves somewhat once it warms up but is still noticeable above a reasonably loud exhaust

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