Vert B230FT into Volvo 240

Samman88

Unfortunately my current 2JZ swap is taking longer than I would like it to. Apparently re-engineering an entire front and rear suspension package, integrating a 600hp powertrain, navigating big brake conversions and trying to get an ex-NASCAR clutch, pedal box and radiator to play ball all in a Volvo 240 chassis is quite an involved process. Who would've thunk it! Scope creep is a terrible thing.

So in the interim I needed a car to get parts with and daily drive whilst the 2JZ conversion was worked on. One flight to Sydney and a trial by fire drive home later, I now have another 240.

Unfortunately O.G. B230 was pretty tired, but when a mate gave me a 160k 1989 B230FT and AW71L from a 740 that he'd engine swapped, images of all the things I planned to do and didn't do, or felt I could do better the second time around with the +T on Minty, flashed before my eyes.

And the rest is history.

Anthony

An engine that matches is a blessing in disguise. So much room under the bonnet and the vast knowledge of OzVolvo and parts to assist in getting you going pretty quick.

Samman88

Cheers @Anthony ! Modest goals and a low budget are the theme here. Raiding my spare parts basket for the most part, but should hopefully be a bit faster than stock!

Samman88

'89 FT out of a 740T. Aw71L trans.

Rödblock.

Even rödder

Stationary.

jlfents

Woah are they foged rods?

Is vert for verticle? If I may ask why vert? Vert vert vert

I like reading your other build thread and am looking forward to this one!

Samman88

Accumulator was modded.

Measurements were taken (gloating to myself here, justification for owning a 200mm mic)

Some more measure

And a bit of cutting later

Should do the trick. Bell is machined down the thickness of the adapter of course. *This is just a mock - up*

Samman88

@jlfents they are! Cheers.
Vertical for more room for activities on the exhaust side, and less bother from the steering shaft. 4" dump has to go somewhere!

Samman88

New rings (Hastings) and rod bearings. New gaskets throughout (Elring).

531 head. K Cam. Standard Valves. Deshrouded exhaust valve. Ported the bowl mildly. Drilled the Group - A gasket holes out.

Used original '89 FT pistons (I think these are the strongest stock piston for a B230)
Engine block is decked significantly and pistons sit proud. 27 thou of squish between piston and quench. Spicy!
Only able to run such tight squish due to forged rods stretching less at revs than 9 or 13mm rods. But if the piston oversize letter is printed on the quench carbon, I'll know it was tight enough!

More testing - stock rubber mounts sit directly on crossmember, no longer placed in shear under normal operation. Further from the crank axis also. Should act similarly to original mounts in an accident - the struts will deform and peal the mount apart. Engine sits a lot lower now, with the B20 sump. COG is improved.

90+, Man sized turbo (HE351CW). Clocks up nicely for stock intercooler, with *28psi* wastegate actuator still aligned.

Ghettobird

We can be he351 buddies!

Vee_Que

Anyone helped you out in the process?

Ghettobird

How much meat did you take out of the wastegate port Sam?
They are pretty measly from factory

Raebird

Bad ass!

Ghettobird

I had heaps of fun with my "shimmed" aw71L
This should be a hoot

Samman88

@Vee_Que the credits roll at the end of the movie! But yes, people have helped me out.

Cheers @Raebird!

@Ghettobird I ended up taking it out to 2mm inside the flapper diameter, and then opened up the passage that I could reach with the die grinder. I still have to lap the flapper. It is pretty small - I'll have to see if I get much creep. I know of one person who replaced the flapper with a B230 exhaust valve that they machined, but if I'm going to that effort I'd fit an external gate.

4" V-band fitted to the turbine housing, ready for a dump pipe. 90+ drilled out and tapped to m10×1.25, MLS T3 gasket, spare 2JZ exhaust studs in there because torx. I'm not sure if I'll brace it.

A vernier cam gear was used because of the block being decked. Budget power is the idea here, so China is the country of origin. Seems to be sweet, but for a 16 valve so it's a bit thicc. May machine it down.
On a side note, the unmarked fasteners were all replaced with 12.9 cap screws (be still my beating heart) and the lock washers that were on there installed upside-down were replaced with Schnorr washers. There is a minor issue here with using the Schnorr washers on a 12.9 grade fastener but I doubt anything will really eventuate.

As for engine management, I have a Microsquirt, Siemens 630cc injectors, 3bar GM map sensor, AEM wideband and Bussmann fuse box with the relays bussed. I'm using a hall sensor on the 60-2 flex plate to give good resolution batch fuel and wasted spark. Has a 15khz ceiling so no stress up to more revs than I can do - a bit newer tech than the old Honeywell GT101. Running a VAG 1.8t coil pack where the dizzy was for the strong spark, OEM look and simple wiring. Fuel system will stay as is for now.

I'm more or less limited by the auto gearbox here, and that's ok for now. To convert the gearbox is beyond scope and budget for this project.

jamesinc

You cray, that's a linear scale, not a Vernier. Or maybe it's a radial scale?? ?

Samman88

True, true! *adjustable cam gear*
The vernier cam gear is like my rocker cover and all of the other misnomers.

Anthony

jamesinc;c-147545 wroteYou cray, that's a linear scale, not a Vernier. Or maybe it's a radial scale?? ?

Increment scale - of theoretical 1degree spacing, but who knows if each notch even relates to 1 degree, though easy checked with a timing light.

Samman88

Printed out the VR to Hall sensor adaptor

I'm also working out the glovebox insert, as I'd like everything ecu related discreet yet accessible. Will be laser cut out of matt black acrylic, but fitting everything on the board is a bit of a hassle.

Dzus connectors either side for easy access to loom. On the left is the Microsquirt (plug on rear) and then the middle is the Bussmann fuse and relay box. On the right is the 52mm AEM wideband gauge. I still need to fit a panel mount DB9 connector for ecu coms and 2 switches - fuel pump and force fan. Mounting the MAP sensor upside down on the rear of the panel, as well as a grounding bolt and 240 power distribution block. Still working out packaging as you can tell.

Samman88

So the glovebox insert design has undergone a second iteration in rough ply and test fit. There are still some changes I'd like to make before the final cut - corner and top cut-out need moving and the right hand fastener will sit on a 45° angle. The comms port is a Switchcraft EHDB9MF.

I bought some 4.5mm flat black acrylic for the final part, which once cut will allow me to assemble the entire ECM in a spare glove box.

I also had the head re-machined after an unfortunate die grinder incident. I have the original B230FT head still, and this has the sodium filled exhaust valves. Contemplating if it's worth the effort swapping them over??

In other news, sold the trusty Cigweld MIG/Stick/DC TIG machine and bought a dedicated TIG with lots of fun buttons to press!

Premature:

Rough coil mount (soon to be aluminium);

I have one of these fuel economy/vacuum gauges:

I do not want this anymore, rather I'd like a oil temp gauge and sender like this:

Would anyone like to swap me/sell me/extort me one of these oil temp gauges?

And finally - if anyone has one of these gems:

And is willing to take a few hi res front/side pics of it with a ruler posing next to it, I would be eternally grateful if you'd be able to send me a PM. My 3D printer is looking for work!

carnut222

Pretty sure I have one of those TURBO badges. Wouldn’t cost much to post it to you if you want to take detailed measurements and send it back to me? I’m in VIC. Where are you? Otherwise I can try to get some pics with dimensions. Lemme know if you want to try that first.
Greg