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  • Volvo B20E inlet manifold throttle butterfly spindle seals

What size is the O ring Mark, I've probably got 4/5 spare you can have.

Hi there 252GT ? I’m trying to find that out, will get back to you, really appreciated, would have thought that a ‘normal’ rubber O ring would not last and so guessing it would be made of something like the the phenolic washers?

Yes, that's a thought heat, fuel resistant would be reqiured. I've just got normal O ring kits with different sizes and diameters.

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Sending this @242GT @Mark_Walton56

Wooops Ian, so sorry, thank you Ian for YOUR Alladins cave plastic bag treasure trove ???

The way Australia Post has been going lately, you'll receive it in February 2021.

4 days later

Hmmm sometimes Australia Post are deliverers of nice things ?

a huge thank you to all of you lovely people in Volvo land that have helped me in my naively as Harry’s’rebirthing’ slowly continues, seriously could NOT have done it without you all.

Nice! I have one on my ES and it works well. I only got the cheapie version - no bluetooth or anything special.

Hi Greg, I asked if there was a Bluetooth and tuneable one for my B20E and was told no, so mine is also the basic one, any tricks I should know about?.

    Mark_Walton56

    Hi Greg, I asked if there was a Bluetooth and tuneable one for my B20E and was told no, so mine is also the basic one, any tricks I should know about?.

    Cool! Well, I put mine in and thought it was all installed correctly, but car wouldn't start. Put old distributor in and it started. Put new one back in and discovered I didn't have the timing correct?? Started fine. I think I might have gotten confused about the rotation of the distributor when setting up the timing or something so I had it at 10 degrees BTDC instead of ATDC or whatever. Anyway, once I got it started I was able to set the timing correctly using my timing light and all good. The car starts up and idles a lot smoother than before, and also seems to be smoother when accelerating. Probably old distributor was a bit worn. The main reason I replaced mine in the first place was I had been using a Crane XR700 electronic ignition with the optical pick-up in the distributor. I think the pick-up was getting dodgy as the car would just die for no reason intermittently, and I traced it to no spark. Anyway, all good now and I'm happy with it. Hope your install goes well!

    A good morning playing with the Harry-car B20E, new high flow IPD oil pump in, lots of red goop (Race Line pre-assembly lube) all through the bottom end, rods and pistons, new IPD rear main and front timing cover, new steel and alloy timing gears, sump and gearbox support brace on and trial fit of the head with all the bits hanging off it, and back on the engine stand for the next stage of re-assembly. Huge thanks to my brotherMatt (Walton Motorsports) and his son Adam, needed a bit of manpower quite a few times this morning ?

    Nice work! Don't forget the inlet manifold support brace. I can't see it in the photo. I think we had to modify the one on our 75 245 with B20F when we put the extractors on, but I don't recall having to do that with the extractors on the 1800ES. Guess it depends on the design of the extractors.

    I take it that the seals arrived?

    100% for the brace. I have to find one myself.

    Oh, and remember D-jet injectors are 1.5V.

    a month later

    Hi there the amazing folk out there In DJet land, this caused me a aaarghhh moment followed by a hmmmmmm moment, I had this in my beautifully catalogued zip lock plastic bags that held all the sensors and other widgets fro Harry’s DJet system, problem is I did not mark this bag, and now can’t seem to find a place for it to go. The writing on it says ‘ A.Pierrurg R G Germany P E 20271/3.2 12V 9058, guessing by the holes in the base and sides of the sensor it would be oil or fuel, and with Pierrurg most likely fuel? Any ideas appreciated, the other possibility it is not DJet stall and just a Mark Workshop random drop by to mess with my head sensor

    @Mark_Walton56 That's the fast idle air bypass valve for the A/C system. It screws into a plastic T-piece with hoses on it that bypass the throttle plate. If you don't have A/C it's no longer required, but if you do, it would be worth re-fitting assuming it works.

    If I squint and guess a bit, along with reading between the lines Pierrurg could be Pierburg which would make sense, my fuel pump is a Pierburg.....