heavy_dd
The white 240 turbo is mine and it is actually in Coffs Harbour, I really didn't want to part it but since no offers have been made, it's looking like I'll part it. pm me if interested.
Tiga
I was going to just run the entry level 'elite 550' , on thier website they mention its good for na and forced induction but I'll probably double check before forking out heaps of cash, don't mind paying the money for a better one tho because it can always go into the next project hahah
@heavy_dd I may just focus on finding a suitable motor first and once I have that, if you have something i need I'll hit you up
Vee_Que
The entry level works fine for an na setup from what haltech have told me, boost control mapping is a handy feature on a street car and a few other input/output help the ecu do a better job to run it, like the idle air motor that a base unit will probably not control.
Samman88
I had a read on the Elite 550 and it sounds like it would be perfect for running a turbo B230 with no frills, provided you didn't have a veiw to run an engine with more cylinders in future. You'd run a coil near plug set up, with a coil per cylinder and sequential ignition and injection, utilising all 8 of their ign and inj outputs. On board map sensor is nice. You could run all your factory sensors with it, plus a new variable throttle position sensor and open element intake temp sensor from the wreckers.
The only thing I would caution you on is the hidden costs of doing this. An $1100 ecu sounds like great bang for buck but you will need to spend more:
$1100 Haltech Elite 550
$500 Haltech Wiring loom to suit
$600 Haltech CAN wideband kit with guage
~$500 Yoshifab CAS and adapter or some other way of triggering.
~$1000 tuning, unless you want to diy.
Before you know it you're at $3700 and unless you upgrade other things, not really making any more power than you would on a factory LH2.4 computer. Don't get me wrong, it would be a sweet tunable set up that would support heaps of power, but if you're on any kind of budget it might be worth looking at other ecus that are out there that offer identical feature sets but aren't MCM endorsed...
Vee_Que
If you went microtec. Make sure you choose the optical sensor as it's burnt into the eprom and locked by them, the cost of getting the sensor changed over is $400 plus loom changes.
Samman88
I would not wish microtech on my worst enemy. Unless they had a rotary. I mean if you need some of the cool features like... shake the box abit for a factory reset, pay to unlock standard features of the ecu, worst customer support of all time, ground off component info on the board, then go for it.
But honestly, for the best budget ecu that will do everything that you would want on a B230 look no further than an EMU Classic.
If you are on a tight budget, Microsquirt with a 14point7 wideband controller will run it well at a basic level also.
Slowbrick
Or LH2.4 ;)
Samman88
Exactly, I mean people seem to be making reliable power on LH2.4 up to a point, for the money it makes good sense
Slowbrick
Well it works for me and seems fine.
Tiga
Yeah, I'm not going for huge power so I guess LH2.4 should do just fine :)
ramrod
You would be suprised to know the levels of horsepower people are reaching in Europe and America using LH 2.4 chipped of course
Tiga
I have read a bit on ostrich 2.0 are they any good with lh2.4?
Slowbrick
Haven't used an Ostrich but instead have stock LH2.4 in a 77 245. Runs great and is *mostly* turn key reliable :)
Vee_Que
Tiga;137803 wroteI have read a bit on ostrich 2.0 are they any good with lh2.4?
There is knowledge on it yes. That 940 is perfect to be a donor car if you can make the space, then a 240 lh 2.4 wiring harness would finish it off.
Klaptrap24
chipped lh2.4 seems to be a very common setup
