Turbo 5.3 LS Volvo 244

Philia_Bear

Andy;136066 wroteIt was only a small update VeeQue so it's not very interesting even to myself.

Bear - yeh going under the tailshaft

Without trying to second guess the skill or build quality... is the panhead bar mount just in the way of running on the other side so you could avoid the crossover?

Andy

The floor has more clearance on the right side and yeh the panhard mount takes up all the room. Plus there's all the fuel and brake lines on the other side as well

Andy

Finished off the exhaust tonight.
It was a bit of a pain in the arse to join it it all up at the trans cross member. I had a trans jack holding it up with the help of of a few worm clamps at the joins. Ended up with a few gaps but filled those fuckers with weld,.

It's way too low at the trans crossmember but hitting a speedbump at 100kph will solve that drama

Andy

Finally got all the and intercooler mounts and piping sorted. Used band clamps to hold it all together whilst I was working out clearances.
The radiator coolant overflow port on the radiator will have to be adjusted as the cold side piping will be a bit too close for comfort. A friend will be welding a few other pieces together next weekend so i'm hoping to start the engine mid June.

Vee_Que

Is the radiator making cooler look smaller then 600x400? Or is it smaller? Very neat.

Andy

Intercooler is a 450x300. 600x400 won't fit without destroying the front end. Plus the larger intercooler will most likely cause condensation issues.

Andy

Had a friend bore out my new 340mm brake rotors to suit the custom 4.5" stud pattern hubs. Pretty happy everything fits perfectly so tomorrow night I will mount up the up-rated calipers.

Also I'm trying to find Ford Territory 17x7.5 spare steel rims so if anyone knows of any for a good price without the tyres please let me know!

New custom hubs fitted with new bearings and grease

Boring out the rotors from 65mm to 68.05mm

Fitted to the hub with the original backing plate in place

Good chat

alphax

Looking good! What are you using for a brake master cylinder? Territory spares are a pain to find as a set. Often Centre Road Wreckers will have a few laying around or still bolted up to the underside of a Territory.

Andy

Just using an explorer master cylinder that I've had laying around for years.
I had a look at Jollys for spare wheels and it seems they take them out to make car jack stands. Bloody annoying!

Vee_Que

I can look at centre Rd if you need?

Andy

Only if you are down that way. I haven't been there for a while so I'm not sure if they leave the spares in the cars

Andy

Mounted up the premium BF calipers on to the brackets I had laser cut. They fit perfectly in relation to the height from the centre of the rotor but I still need to make and install some 4mm spacer washers.

Vee_Que

It's literally down the road from my work ;)

Andy

Okay so I cut all the pieces for a surge tank and and friend tacked welded it yesterday. It's about 1 liter in volume and will be mounted to the panhard mounting frame.
Still don't know where i'm going to place the two Walbro pumps though, but i'm thinking of mounting them to the fuel tank.

The two lower ports will be the feed to the two high pressure pumps. The two low pressure in-tank pumps will feed the two top ports. Whilst the third port on the side will feed back into the tank.

For the panhard there are some turnbuckle adjusters welded in. It still needs to be bent in the middle to clear the diff cover.

The upper torque rods were made from thicker walled tube and new thicker bushing shells:

Parts used for both the panhard and the upper torque rods can be found at Summit by searching:
QA1-JNR12S-6PK, QA1-JNL12S-6PK, QA1-ASM12-55, QA1-1845-104, QA1-1844-127

Also added 2.5mm fish plates to the side of the traling arms.

This car will not skid

Andy

Been a bit slow lately as I've been working on many small things at once.

A friend welded in some floorpan reinforcement plates to support the lower trailing arms. Turned out a lot better than expected.

Also ran new brake hard lines on the 8.8 diff. I'm using EF rubber hoses that supply tge 8.8 calipers.

Had an issue with the Territory rims not clearing the struts.

So had the offsets changed on the front rims. Also some new rubber :)

Currently I'm working on heat sheilding where the dump pipe is going to go. I'm using aluminium house flashing as it's thin and easy to work with. Its a painfully slow process as I want it to look good. Still need to ad heat sheilding to the passenger side of the firewall..

gareth12

any updates?

Andy

Not much of an update other than the engine and trans is in the for the final time. Just tidying up the fuel system and electrical components. All the small tasks are really time consuming...

gareth12

Heh yes they are, cool build

Andy

Here's a video of the engine running. Had to fix a few fuel leaks and issues.

The ignition coils on the driver side have been mounted using an aftermarket mount kit. There was no way I could fit them on the rocker cover down near the clutch master cylinder.

Battery is now mounted in the boot with a VE commodore cable running up through the centre of the car. The fuel pump relays are also mounted on the side of the battery box.

Made up some new leads using VX V6 commodore leads. They work well with the turbo manifolds as they kick up at the ends.

Here's a pic of the fuel pump and filter trickery.
I also mounted the flex fuel sensor in there on the return line.

Andy

Ok hit another milestone, now there's drive to the rear wheels. :) Pretty big releif as I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. This all happen 2 weeks ago. There won't be any updates for a while as I'm on a work trip.

I had the 3" 2 piece tailshaft shortened at both ends. I didn't want to run an adapter on the rear of the gearbox that picks up on the three bolt flange so I ordered a rare GT500 TR6060 output flange from Mal Wood. Since I work at Ford I knew of this option as it was cheaper than the dodgy adapter plates getting around. For the rear end of the tailshaft I knocked off the flange and bolted it directly to the new Strange diff companion yoke.

Difference between the 3 bolt commodore/falcon out flange and the GT500 TR6060 output flange. The GT500 flange had to have 6mm trim off the splined end that goes into the transmission

First half of the tailshaft shortened and mounted. Once I had it mounted I took a measurement and dropped the other half off to the tailshaft joint to b hortened.

Rear half shortened and installed

So now the rear hand brake line had to be tackled. I had been putting this off for a while but finally came up with a way converting it over. If you are looking into swapping in a diff that has balls like a 8.8 then listen in.

First thing you do is get the Explorer hand brake lines into the vice like so. turn the vice grips clockwise so that the coiled steel in the sheath tighten up and reduce diatmeter. This causes the sheaving to fall out of the ends.

You will end up with these. They will allow the cable to clip into the 8.8 diff brake backing plates.

Next you need to revert the crimping so that it can be crimped once again. Do this by pressing in a M12 bolt that has had it's threads ground down to a taper. This allows for the bolt to guide into the cable clip. Having threads will allow you to screw the bolt out.

Cut a slice down the Explorer cable end so that the cable can be extracted. Puth in the volvo cable and build up weld up an over the cable trying not to actually weld the cable.

Install it all into the brake backing plate like so. You probably notice I run the backing plate 180degree so that the cables are down at the bottom. Did this by mistake but it actually works out better clearing the control arms.

Also got the EL swaybar installed. Tip is to use the swaybar mounts from the 70's 244's as they offset the bar lower away from the body rails.

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