96 850R wagon slow build thread

rado · 2018-04-02T09:11:35+00:00

Oh the original color is dark gray pearl with 172 k on the clock automatic

rado

Mental note to self
At plus 43c in traffic noticed the bonnet getting pretty hot 😀

Also on deceleration between 2 & 3k revs it looks like the needle is hunting up and down

Also on full throttle the lambda light is flickering like mad but go's away

Lastly ( not very often ) light comes on lambda yeah that one again so find the fault and it's mfa . Now I'm wondering if it's because when I changed it it wasn't a bosch part .. may put the original back in see if it pops the code up ..

TL_V70

Lamba light flickering really fast is a warning system built into the VAST ECU.

it's telling you the knock sensors are picking up knocking (Detonation) so best get of the loud pedal not to cause and damage.

THIS IS FROM THE WEBSITE and i am pretty sure its mentioned in the instructions sheet the ecu came with

Check Engine Light Flash During Knock

Arguably one of the most important software additions to the ECU is the ability to alert the driver to detected knock/pre-ignition. A new routine has been coded into the ECU, which will actively flash the check engine light in response to actual, detected knock.

242GT

I bought the updated genuine Volvo knock sensor kit , it comes with 2 x knock sensors , updated Y shaped wiring harness .
The original Y wiring for both sensors into the main harness is apparently a weak point.
This came about as I had same issue as you ocassionly the 850R Delta light would come on and the car would run in a limp mode .
According to forums its a common issue with older knock sensors.
2 ways to sort it .

Take both sensors off front of block plus the small harness that plugs into main harness.
Buy replacement knock sensor kit and replace everything, make sure to clean surface where they bolt to engine block.
Note: the knock sensor instructions show that sensors need to be set at a particular and and tightened to a set torque amount.

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242GT

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rado

Nice one Tom and Stewart , appreciated guys . I'll get onto it next month sometime .
I went for a short blast this morning and near red lined it in 2nd and third and it went like a dream , no mad flashing light . Like I say doesn't happen all the time but when it does I immediately take my foot off the throttle..

242GT

Yep , same as mine did , I'd go for a drive no problems for a week or then it'd play up for next 2 days , the lambda light would come on and it was like I'd lost 2 cylinders and struggling to run.
Replaced the knock sensors with updated harness hasn't done it again for 3yrs.
If you can next time it dose it check the codes

TL_V70

I doubt it logs any codes as its a modified ECU and has been programmed to rapid flash the lamda light whiles its detecting Knock and the light turns strait off after knock has ended.

Its a visual warning added for the driver to getting off the loud pedal as it knocking/ Detonating its a sure fire way to crack pistons

Mine does it occasionally and only ever under hard acceleration.

rado

OK ...bit of a drunk post so stay with me 😀
I'm off worktops week and been driving the Arrgh and all is good ish

The stereo is drinking me nuts and has been for a while . The auto changer comes up with an error E o1 something like that so I jump out open the tailgate eject the cassette put it back in and all is good lol . It's driving me crazy . And also randomly when playing the auto changer the head unit decides to play the tape .....Arrgh

Talking to the wife about today she was wondering why I was pressing many many buttons on it while driving he he
I think it time to go back to the after market Alpine cassette and changer ad it was absolutely flawless and the sound was brilliant, damn sight better than oem unfortunately , hmmm..

rado

Little bit of a Bi-monthly update , actually pulled the Arrgh out the garage and went for a drive yesterday and still great then a good few hours cleaning it and back in the garage 😀 ....

But in-between I spent a couple of hours on the right side windscreen/a pillar trim . Most of the black had flaked off so I used a Stanley knife and got the rest off then a rub with mothers
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There is still a couple of blemishes to polish out

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It's growing on me the chrome look , not overly convinced but looks a damn sight better than flaky black crap .
The left needs to be done to match

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It's starting to peal , so hopefully get on that this afternoon....

Zero spent in the last few months and getting withdrawals lol I'll redirect the hoses on the pcv to the catch tank soon so that'll be fun taking the inlet manifold off again , yey !

rado

Fun and games today , went for a drive and noticed that it wasn't going above 14 psi on the ole boost gauge so took off the throttle cover
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You can just about see one of the elbows have split , luckily I have a few volvo og spare
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I have some movement in the tree though but can't really see any air escaping from there. I bought another a few years back as it goes and took it out the packet today and noticed it has no o ring
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But found something that fits

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Anyway booting up to 16 psi , hmmm not the usual 18 that I expect ...

Keep on getting a code , idle air control valve . Anyone know if this would be interfering ?

Also changed back the maf to the original, no difference between them , the new one isn't a bosch item
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Could this be a cause of lower boost ?

mxj

Have you cleaned the idle air control valve? They tend to build up oil/carbon and not work so well. You can remove the valve and spray carb cleaner into the port and allow it to sit followed by shaking it and then draining the cleaner. It should make a clear clunking sound when rotated if it's clean.

Also, I hate those stupid elbows and the vacuum tree. I designed one that I had 3d printed out of aluminum to eliminate that.

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rado

mxj
No I've not had chance to strip it and clean it yet , it'll probably need a good clean .

The tree you've made looks extremely good , how do the vacuum hoses connect , do you have a picture of it on at all ?

mxj

It has 1/8 npt holes for fittings to be installed.

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rado

mxj
Any plans on making any more ?
I do think a few guys here including myself would buy one .

rado

I bought these this afternoon
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And took the idle valve off , a bit dirty..

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And after..
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Much better .

Also cleaned the oem maf and seems a lot smoother and started on the button . Only had a quick blast around but does seem as though there is a difference there .

Back to the tree , I took the 10mm bolt out and put a washer on the bolt and now no movement at all .

mxj

rado

The challenge would be expensive shipping from China to US, then US down to Australia.

I would be willing to share the 3d model with someone if they would agree not to sell the parts for profit… kind of making it a community asset.

242GT

Why dose it need to ship to USA then Australia as opposed to China straight to Australia

mxj

Only because it's my design and I'm based in the US.

I use in3dtec to print it for me. Will one of you check to see if they ship to Australia?

242GT

Ok , didn't know you are USA based , who do I check to see if they post to Australia, do you have a contact address I can research , rado and I both have 850R

mxj

Check it out here:
https://www.in3dtec.com/

You may also be able to find a company in Australia that does SLM aluminum printing. My cost including postage was about $75 US.

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