B6304 conversion

Have you considered going with a whiteblock M90 if you're keen on going manual? 960s with manuals in Europe had the M90 fitted from the factory.

I don't believe M46 or especially M47 will be strong enough for your long-term needs. Syncro rings and some gears are NLA as far as I know for them now.

Alternatively there's the Borg Warner / BTR / Tremec / Whatever They Call Themselves This Week T5 gearbox. DeeWorks makes a whiteblock adapter plate for T5 gearboxes, I believe @Slowbrick got one for his T5 with T5 project. AFAIK all whiteblocks have the same bellhousing pattern.

Also... what ECU do you plan to use? There are (at least) two types of Motronic 4.1 factory units, one with immobilizer and one without.

I will be following your project closely since I'm planning a B6304 swap for the 780 eventually.

M90 in 264 will have the shifter in a bad spot

Someone (I forget who) makes a nice adapter to put a Toyota trans onto the stock auto bell housing and it works stupid well

If I was doing something for long term use... I would be thinking about one of the gm manual 6 speed boxes that has the cable shifter

Agree with @Philia_Bear - look into 1UZ to W58 adapters as 1UZ toyota engines have the same auto bell to box pattern as whiteblocks - unsure of input shaft length. Nice shifting box, sturdy for NA I6 applications (how it was delivered stock) and good ratios for it. Will fit the tunnel as well.

gavinh;127339 wrote@bgpzfm142. Wiring will be stock moronic 1.8? from 92. As far as I can gather it had a factory alarm/immobiliser and it was professionally removed, I'm not looking at any power gains or pushing more hp.

I do like the ldea of putting a shift kit or wiring the valve to day paddle shift on the aw30-40 but it's still no manual.

I have read about the T5 and there are plenty of adaptors avalible, I think vee-que even makes them, but I'm not to sure what I have to get to make it work? For a white block, flywheel etc is easy enough but the start talking about changing the input shaft, then possably making a custom drive shaft?, lots of questions

@Philia_Bear the Toyota trans is that the w58 your talking about?

Gav

Can get adapters for w58/r154/the supra gertrag 6 speed

I would not ever even think of reusing the shit stock ecu

Ms1v3... cheap and has better than stock tunes available for it... much better long term diagnostics as well

Also not afm based which makes intake plumbing easier to deal with

gavinh;127343 wroteYeah @Philia_Bear the stock diagnostics are a bag of shite. Again I have looked into it on the surface with Ms but at the time it confused the shit out of me. Your running ms1v3 on the tentical wagon? How do you find the paddle shift?

Ms is easy and lots of support for it here and on t-bricks

One of the pre assembled kits from diy is my recommendation for ms1 v3 running the high resolution ms extra code
Ms2 and ms3 are more complicated than you need for wasted spark batch fire on the 6 cyl

Paddle shift is just what it is
Great for towing and track use
Makes heavy traffic much easier than a manual

Having 2 do the shifting manually all the time can get old eventually in traffic

I'm going m90 in the wagon now only because I never expect to race the car ever again or drive it in heavy traffic

I would run the stock ecu for registration purposes at the start. Wiring in an ecu from scratch is not as simple as mike makes it sound.

I'd go for the auto and then down the track look into a manual box. The 1uz auto adaptors are the same pattern as the Volvo auto so it's not too hard to use them.

Vee_Que;127350 wroteI would run the stock ecu for registration purposes at the start. Wiring in an ecu from scratch is not as simple as mike makes it sound.

I'd go for the auto and then down the track look into a manual box. The 1uz auto adaptors are the same pattern as the Volvo auto so it's not too hard to use them.

Stripping just the wiring you need out of the 960 main harness is imho far more complicated
Also the ecu can get unhappy with lack of a number of inputs from other modules

You have less wiring with MS than the moronic system and it's honestly better documented at this point than the moronic system is

Neither of them are simple at all... been there and done that 4 times now (God dam...)
Msv1 will fit in the moronic box... so.. from a engineering perspective... it's the stock ecu box

Paddle-shifting, by The Poi.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=47229

264 revival, love it ?

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some pics of it and the build. Any rust in the body?

:+1: Looks like its in great nic. Should clean up really well. Any suspension plans?

aw yeah, just a comfy cruiser.

:p might have to glue those down in case of 'accidental' clutch drops.

Retaining the stock computers makes 1 aspect of engineering & registration simpler If in Vic.

It's in accordance with their emmisions regulations, If starting scratch you need to pay for an emmisions assessment - An IM240 which will give you complete coverage of ALL the emmisions related mods done - injectors, turbos, the lot!
That certificate is about 1k ontop of the rest of the engineering costs if all goes to plan.

As for actually wiring up a new management system, Its really not that hard.
Retaining parts of the old system like sections of loom and connectors can make things a lot simpler, but the basics are the same. Its amazing how much you pick up and learn along the way!

I used to own a 1uz - w5x series adapter plate and hydro throwout bearing setup from a guy in the states that I was planning on using, but the age and price hike on the w5x boxes & r154s was horrendous.

I then bought one of Mikes whiteblock - T5 gearbox plates which I still have.

Im waiting for John Johnson's 262s engine to shit the bed so @VPT02 and I can drop a real engine into her :)

You can retain the 960s engine mount brackets, coupled with a nice thick alu spacer, a set of stock 240 rubber mounts & some custom subframe brackets for a nice clean setup.

Ive had some bits sent off for measuring for gearbox options and should know soon enough for my own 240 T5 shenanigans

What objective(s) do you wish to achieve by adding a Nivomat system?

People usually want to go the other way and get rid of the Nivomats, and replace them with suitably rated springs and shocks, because replacement Nivomats are hideously expensive to replace.

The problem I see you having with them is having to do a lot of fiddling and revalving for getting the rates correct so that the rear end doesn't sag or bounce. You may be better off getting some re-rated springs and Bilsteins and saving yourself a lot of money and hassle.

They replace the springs for the most part on the later cars too.