Roinik I'm interested in the results and whether there was a noticeable result, even if it is from tge butt dyno.
Hasn't been on a dyno yet, have a mate setting one up at his shop soon so will hopefully get onto that at some point. As far as difference goes, it pulls like a freight train all the way to 6500, definitely has more RPM in it as well, i've just got the limiter set to soft cut at 6500 so I don't blow anything up by being stupid. I did a rough measurement of the 0-100 from the RPM log and it was around 7-7.5 secs, down from 11 with the stock 16v setup, thats with full interior, sound deadening, sound system etc etc and a granny 1/2 shift. If I bump the rev limit up another 100-200rpm i'll be able to hit 100 at the top of second gear which should save a heap of time off the shift.
More importantly, reliability is the major benefit. After a year of chasing weird issues with LH2.4 I can happily say I haven't had a single thing go wrong since switching to the Haltech, apart from a second hand 850 TPS going bad. It's nice being able to get into it and turn the key without worrying about weird stuff happening. E85 cold starts have not been an issue either, starts like factory thanks to the boffins at Haltech remoting in and adding way more fuel to my cold start tune than I would have thought necessary.
As far as other updates go (sans pictures as I don't have any on hand);
Suspension:
BC Coilovers 7kg/6kgKaplhenke QSRCKaplhenke panhard barIPD 25mm sways F/R Superpro bushes in every spot (including subframe bushes)Kaplhenke sway bar links
Driveline
Rebuilt 3.73 complete axle out of a 95 940 Turbo wagon (New bearings, seals, Lokka centre)
Engine (Looks like I haven't written a thing about this since posting the photo of it in the car in 2018)
91 B230FB Bottom end (out of the parts car I got the m47 from)B234F Head (Light intake port)New OEM oil pumpRebuild bottom to top with new bearings and seals (still stock 13mm rods)Cometic HG ARP Head studs Yoshifab swap kit (cam gears, breather kit, timing kit)Catcams 605 sportcams (Don't have much adjustment to play with cam wheel timing due to the HG thickness and head resurfacing 2x)KL Racing fuel railKL racing intake manifold (Ported and KG Guncoated courtesy of Adam Brown in WA)Stock 16v n/a headers (for now, turbo coming)
Fuel system:
Thread can be found here https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/16056/7-9-fuel-pump-upgrade-guide1000CC Bosch/Raceworks flow matched injectors with some custom lathed 3/4-full length adaptors to suit the KL rail (Hit 95% duty cycle with new Bosch 968's on e75)Turbosmart FPR800 reg Raceworks fittingsGM/Continental Flex fuel sensor
Engine management
2021 mid lockdownWent to a wasted spark LH2.4 system with Bosch 2x2 coil and NA6 MX5 j702t ignitor (drives the stock tachometer)Start of 2022 Split the factory engine harness and body loomHaltech Elite ECU (used a haltech premium universal wire in harness with integrated fusebox)Haltech widebandFuel pressure sensorCoolant temp/pressure sensorOil temp/pressure sensor OEM Knock sensor850 TPS 0280 122 001 (as its a variable reading, not on/off switch)Factory LH2.4 CPSRetrofitted 740 LH2.2 Distributor with a custom 3d printed cap to use as the cam home signal (runs in full sequential)Genuine Bosch Audi R8 red top coil packs
Things to come:
G25-660 Turbo ( already have )D088 intercooler (already have)Chunky mild steel front/low mount turbo manifold (already have, was designed for a 240 so it clears the steering rack no problemo)Need to get a sump made up with a dash10 oil return and baffles ( I do want to track it soon, if you can help with this DM me)Acquired a set of Panasport G7 C5C forged 3p wheels from peak 90s japan that I need to get rebuilt at some stage
I think i've forgotton a fair bit as its been nearly 4 years since i've properly updated this thread, will add pictures soon.
