Bigger rotors like from a xc90 V8, 340mm iirc? new adaptors from the side mounts. Not the simplest job, there may be an adapter kit available for the s60r Calipers, sell these and buy the others. But you will need 17s minimum.
17 days later
Vee_Que;119727 wroteBigger rotors like from a xc90 V8, 340mm iirc? new adaptors from the side mounts. Not the simplest job, there may be an adapter kit available for the s60r Calipers, sell these and buy the others. But you will need 17s minimum.
I was thinking redrilled falcon rotors or blanks. Ill have to pull a strut off the other 940 and work with that, bit hard atm as the garage is completely full. Its going to be hard to sell them for what theyre worth now as every man and their dog have gotten an FPV Rspec vin and bought them directly from ford. Planning on running 18s anyway.


Pulled apart the m47 and turns out on some of the gears a tooth has broken off and third gear is really worn :angry:
Don't know what to do now with it, and the clutch master is useless as well because with the 16v head it wont fit in the engine bay !!!



Anyway, I bought the 740 on the Monday public holiday we had a few weeks back, and spent some time getting it to run.
It had no spark so we replaced a bunch of sensors and it turned out being the CAS sensor. Changed out the coil as well. Then it wasn't getting fuel through the injectors so we just pumped some fuel through the throttle body and it started up for the first time in 11 years.

Its a real nice car, leather interior, heated seats, cruise control, fully sick stereo system :lol:





And after a quick gurney (p.s The front of the car is in way better condition than the rear. Also heaps of corrosion everywhere because its a car that spent its life near the beach)





Fast forward to today and finally got the chance to pull the head off.
















The main concern is that the water jackets are absolutely full of filth and crud thats been built up, it's pretty disgusting! Other than that, it looks to be in really good condition. Happy days :)

Also pulled the front lip and foggies off to put on the 940, as well as the spare tyre to see what it looks like! (Ill definitely be putting the alloys on it ). Anyone have any tips on how to bolt them together? Cheers!




Water pump is likely gone if the jackets are that bad, probably ran with and sat with water for ages.
egads;121348 wroteWater pump is likely gone if the jackets are that bad, probably ran with and sat with water for ages.
Most likely, it had no water in it at all during storage and we filled it just to start it. It will be replaced with a new one when it gets rebuilt anyway :+1:
15 days later
You can fit the 16v head and a clutch master on a 740. The 240 is the one where it won't fit. Just fwiw.
Really? Thanks mate. All the info I've reads to believe that you need an under dash master for the 16 valves. Isn't that what came standard on the overseas 16v manual factory cars ? It just looks too long to fit!
That's a 240 master cylinder too, a 740 one is smaller and uses the brake reservoir for its fluid.
Vee_Que;122591 wroteThat's a 240 master cylinder too, a 740 one is smaller and uses the brake reservoir for its fluid.
Damn. So does that mean ill need a 740 master cylinder or is this one fine?
You should get a new 740/940 master because the 240 part doesn't bolt up.
17 days later
Block just got sent off to the builders. Head goes off on Monday ?? Flywheel is there getting lightened as well, woohoo
Vee_Que;124164 wroteBuilders?
Westend performance. Owner has been mates with dad for many many years.
What parts do you have for the build now? Is it a 16v turbo or na?
16v N/a. Keeping the original crank and rods but with new pistons. Ported head and cams. ITB's. Ecu etc. Like the original plan without a fully forged or stroked motor.
Interesting. What compression ratio? Squish? If your not don't rods, I assume stock 16v pistons?

The head flow will mean nothing without a lot more compression than stock....
At least 11.0:1 would be nice if using a modern, fast ECU with ITB's and decent cam timing/lift.
Even a pedestrian 16V 2.5 Camry 4cyl runs 10.4:1 comp for 180HP.
Exactly, and my iron head b20 runs 10.8:1 with no issues and good power. And alloy heads dissipate heat and need more compression to compensate / less likely to ping. Yoshifab.com do cam regrinds too.
@alphax @Vee_Que
Mahle pistons. Yes I know, aiming for around 11, as you've stated previously ITT. Looking at Yoshi cams, KL racing and I was recommended FS374's but I forgot the name of the company.
Going with a Haltech or Motec for the ECU most likely.

Turns out 3rd gear wasn't the stuffed one on the m47, so yesterday the reverse engagement gear and reverse gear were ordered from Volvo webparts store and today Dad is going to get some new bearings for it as well.

Also ordering wheels and tyres this week hopefully because the tyres on all 3 sets of rims that I have are gone.
Which set do you guys like more?



Progress is steady but it's moving :)
Serious money there to go with a motec! A haltech is around 1800 for the one worth having. Motec... Double that for the same features? But I guess if it's a combined project it's almost justified...

Will it also be tight squish? If your engine builder says it's not needed, then don't use him, as it's proven engine theory and people who don't do it are stuck in the 70s. It allows for more compression than you think it can handle, if your going bigger cams, then closer to 12:1 is probably good because of the dynamic compression with the lift and duration.