'92 240GLE - The Brapwagon

jamesinc · 2017-06-03T09:43:15+00:00

You dont by chance still have the tail lights?

jamesinc

@carnut222 the full context is I cracked the die on my Jaycar heavy duty one while doing some 2AWG terminals (see here for pic). Mike had the same crimper and we finished everything off with no issue, but the design of the Jaycar crimper is not great, the load gets distributed badly across the dies.

Philia_Bear

jamesinc;128039 wrote@Philia_Bear I think I need to buy this https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00GXQ2E5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516153101&sr=8-1&keywords=YQK-300

I have added to my amazon wish list... will pick up on next trip

Major Ledfoot

jamesinc;128039 wrote@Philia_Bear I think I need to buy this https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00GXQ2E5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516153101&sr=8-1&keywords=YQK-300

Suggest that "Oz Volvo" buys it and borrows it out to members, along the lines of Turbobricks' Squirter Drill Kit? Battery cable crimping is something you should only have to do once per car.

Philia_Bear

bgpzfm142;128078 wrote
jamesinc;128039 wrote@Philia_Bear I think I need to buy this https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00GXQ2E5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516153101&sr=8-1&keywords=YQK-300
Suggest that "Oz Volvo" buys it and borrows it out to members, along the lines of Turbobricks' Squirter Drill Kit? Battery cable crimping is something you should only have to do once per car.

Like the brake lathe I bought?

Vee_Que

bgpzfm142;128078 wrote
jamesinc;128039 wrote@Philia_Bear I think I need to buy this https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00GXQ2E5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516153101&sr=8-1&keywords=YQK-300
Suggest that "Oz Volvo" buys it and borrows it out to members, along the lines of Turbobricks' Squirter Drill Kit? Battery cable crimping is something you should only have to do once per car.

I bought one for $80 from my tool guy, not exactly expensive?

jamesinc

I'd like to take a crack at making a squirter drill kit

jamesinc

Yesterday I made the chunk missing behind the rear driver's side door disappear, or... reappear, depending on how you look at it.

Then I stopped because the heat and humidity were really getting to me, and later realised I had mild heat stroke, and I've been chugging water for the last 16 hours now and am only just getting past the dehydration. ?

gavinh

Dehydration is fun, something that creeps up on you and it's to late by the time you realise. Nice work though

jamesinc

@Philia_Bear I think it's close enough to complete now, I'll come round this weekend and fabricobble the missing exhaust pipe and see if it will drive good.

Philia_Bear

jamesinc;128907 wroteYesterday I made the chunk missing behind the rear driver's side door disappear, or... reappear, depending on how you look at it.

Then I stopped because the heat and humidity were really getting to me, and later realised I had mild heat stroke, and I've been chugging water for the last 16 hours now and am only just getting past the dehydration. ?

Did you actually fix the metal? or just bog the eff out of it like the last owner did?

jamesinc

Philia_Bear;129139 wrote
jamesinc;128907 wroteYesterday I made the chunk missing behind the rear driver's side door disappear, or... reappear, depending on how you look at it.

Then I stopped because the heat and humidity were really getting to me, and later realised I had mild heat stroke, and I've been chugging water for the last 16 hours now and am only just getting past the dehydration. ?
Did you actually fix the metal? or just bog the eff out of it like the last owner did?

I supplemented the bog with additional bog. The metal... that would take some doing.

jamesinc

The wagon is tentatively finished as it drives and the lights work and so on. Last weekend I made a new tailgate harness for it. Thanks Jayden/James and Mike for the ball of wires and some spade connectors.

Upcoming:

Engine runs a bit rough at idle, possibly stuck ICV. Need to give the AMM a clean too
Finalising the 2-seater documentation
Clutch friction point is too low, might be some air in the system still. Adjusted slave rod out already.
I haven't driven this thing at speeds over walking pace in Mike's yard, so who knows what will happen when I actually get 'er goin'.
Get rid of all the parts in the boot
Blue slip

jamesinc

Drove ye ole Brapwagonne yesterday with @Philia_Bear in the passenger seat and it was kiiiiinda okay and kinda terrible at the same time. The results:

- way low on power
- some kind of knocking under mid load
- suspension and steering are noice
- brakes work pretty well, not bad for a sandpaper clean up
- found a few spidey bois behind the number plate
- clutch engagement still too low
- pops out of second

Now I put a new knock sensor on when I had the motor out so maybe it's faulty, or maybe it's a faulty O2 sensor, or maybe it's something else. I need to check the base timing with a timing light to ensure everything is timed correctly (it probably is) and I need a fuel pressure tester to check rail pressure.

I also realised the shifter ball pivot is missing the upper circlip that retains it and the bushings are worn to high heaven so that might explain second gear popping out. If anyone knows what size circlip that takes please let me know.

Slowbrick

jamesinc;132016 wroteDrove ye ole Brapwagonne yesterday with @Philia_Bear in the passenger seat and it was kiiiiinda okay and kinda terrible at the same time. The results:

- way low on power
- some kind of knocking under mid load
- suspension and steering are noice
- brakes work pretty well, not bad for a sandpaper clean up
- found a few spidey bois behind the number plate
- clutch engagement still too low
- pops out of second

Now I put a new knock sensor on when I had the motor out so maybe it's faulty, or maybe it's a faulty O2 sensor, or maybe it's something else. I need to check the base timing with a timing light to ensure everything is timed correctly (it probably is) and I need a fuel pressure tester to check rail pressure.

I also realised the shifter ball pivot is missing the upper circlip that retains it and the bushings are worn to high heaven so that might explain second gear popping out. If anyone knows what size circlip that takes please let me know.

I think I have a spare circlip here. I can measure it when I get home if I can find it.

jamesinc

Went over everything today. FPR had fuel leak, so replaced it. Still wasn't running right. Leads were shit so replaced them too. Still not right but a bit better. Subbed in a rail that had a Schrader valve on it, FPR confirmed functional. Lukewarm compression test looked good, 1-4 got 182, 188, 185, 190 PSI respectively (bear in mind my gauge only has markings every 5 PSI.

Still getting a varnish smell quite strongly so I'm going to flush the tank again and replace the fuel filter.

Philia_Bear

Throttle plate also adjusted again

One note, should we also replace the rest of the vac lines?

jamesinc

Philia_Bear;134610 wroteThrottle plate also adjusted again

One note, should we also replace the rest of the vac lines?

I mean, maybe. I checked them and they looked to be in decent condition. I already replaced the PCV vac line, so I think all that would leave is the vac supply to the AC system and the charcoal canister hoses.

jamesinc

Stone the crows this wagon has put up a fight.

Went through the fuel tank today, it was full if rust and crud. I pressure washed it as best I could, and unstuck the sender. The in tank pump sock was cracked and the pump was probably pretty shit so I installed a generic GOSS GE043 pump from Supercheap, which works really nicely, all we had to do was cut the plastic bracket that held the original pump so it could be expanded slightly, then use a hose clamp to secure it (see pics). I did not have to shorten the pickup tube at all, lengthwise it is basically a perfect match. So if you want to replace an in-tank pump in a hurry, it'll do the job.

The wagon now runs better still, but it's not quite what I expect. I think the only proper solution to this is to replace the entire tank, or have it reconditioned (does anyone know a shop in Sydney that does this?). I also need to replace the pickup/sender assembly as this one is rusted. On the plus side, the sender now works. It was evidently just gummed up with varnish.

Before:

Marginally better after:

Fun fun fun:

Major Ledfoot

Wow.

If that's what a 'newish' tank is like, then the ones in my 140s are going to be even worse.

No wonder they went to plastic tanks in the 700s.

Motoradco in Granville do fuel tank repairs.

http://www.motoradcoradiators.com.au/fueltank-repair.php

jamesinc

@bgpzfm142 bear in mind this car sat out in the open with an empty tank for at least 5 years.

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