Engine swaps?

ljk346

Wondering what the most common and well documented engine swaps are on 240's

Engine might also need to be supported by aftermarket parts due to I'm going to drift the 240

I know you don't need more power to drift (ae86 >150kw but light as) but just wanting to get my upgrade path straighter

SR20, 1jz, 2jz, Rb25, RB26, Another Volvo engine (t4/t5) etc... or just upgrade the stock B230f (+t would be fun)

Most keen on the 1jz at the moment

Also price to gains should be taken into consideration, I don't have all the money in the world :(

Cheers!

Ex850R

LS.

Vee_Que

To do that type of impressive tyre smoke, you do need power. To be competitive, you need big hp. To even get in at a drift day is harder than building a motor depending on the state you're in.

Honestly, there is that many threads on here and turbo bricks etc that can tell you what you need, that to expect a full process, combined with being on a budget, from someone to write again is a bit repetitive.

So, if you can get time at a drift day, you can go to a turbo swap on a b230, but you need to go to bugger injectors, run the oil cooler etc as you will be working the motor hard. This will cost between 1000-2000 depending what you start with in the car and the ecu. If it's lh 2.4, then you're ahead. If kjet. Big job as you need to convert to either Volvo efi or aftermarket computer like microtech or megasquirt. Then the gearbox needs work, if auto, a t5 conversion, if m46, try it and see how long it lasts. Then go to a t5.

So basically at the end of it, you can make 200whp and then need to build a motor to handle more if being competitive. And will cost about five grand realistically. Especially if you don't have the experience as mistakes cost money.

A 1/2j swap, well, a 2j na is under 900, with the correct sump. Then turbo, computers, gearbox, same as a 1j, but the torque gain is good for a 2j and you can De comp the 2j or run the high comp with e85. A gearbox that will survive is not cheap in any way or form. Plus a diff, going to an 8.8 Explorer diff is advisable. You can fit a t56 to this but the tunnel needs work.

Expect to realistically spend 7-8k and make up to 500whp with stock internals

Don't waste money and time on an Sr, they make more power than a b230 stock and boosted, but the power limit is similar and the parts still cost a bomb.

An ls1 is on the surface good, but the builds on here usually start with a whole car you pay a lot for and sell off or its done with help from mates with spares. You either buy a whole ls1 for 2000-3000 with a t56, which will both need rebuilding, or go bigger again with a ls2 which will not likely need rebuilding due to being a better internal design. Diff will need to be upgraded etc.

If you went with an ls1 and rebuilt, plus cam and springs which is basically mandatory for power, you'd spend 7-8, if not more, or similar for an ls2 plus springs and cam. Assuming you're not able to do a lot of the work yourself. And you'd make 3-400whp with potential for more with a turbo, but the chance to blow the na motor up increases fast in competition.

jlfents

Look up driftsnlifts on YouTube. Might give you ideas

Philia_Bear

If race use only and never needs to be engineered for street use

B6304 with log manifold and t3/t4 turbo running e85 and using a padle shift conversion on the auto

All the parts you need would be about $3500aud paying retail

Lots of fab work required so ls1 easier if your paying someone else

ljk346

jlfents;107171 wroteLook up driftsnlifts on YouTube. Might give you ideas

Seen him, great inspiration
Sliding that 740 turbo booty with ease on goldie

ljk346

Philia_Bear;107177 wroteIf race use only and never needs to be engineered for street use

B6304 with log manifold and t3/t4 turbo running e85 and using a padle shift conversion on the auto

All the parts you need would be about $3500aud paying retail

Lots of fab work required so ls1 easier if your paying someone else

will need to be registered and engineered

Philia_Bear

ljk346;107196 wrote
Philia_Bear;107177 wroteIf race use only and never needs to be engineered for street use

B6304 with log manifold and t3/t4 turbo running e85 and using a padle shift conversion on the auto

All the parts you need would be about $3500aud paying retail

Lots of fab work required so ls1 easier if your paying someone else
will need to be registered and engineered

totally stock LS1 is the easiest thing

deleted_user_160

Would have thought an ft would have been the easiest swap?
Though an ls with a basic tune can produce more power than an ft for the same kind of money no doubt.

deleted_user_160

ljk346;107196 wrote will need to be registered and engineered

Local LS + boost falls outside of the maximum range.

Andy

You can pick up complete 200k LS engines for 1400 these days and will be perfect in stock form. They might need new rod, main bearings and a oil pump but they are cheap anyway. I picked up a Tr6060 with 6000ks on it for 1600. The whole swap could be done for 6k with a converted 8.8 diff.

Samman88

Yeah look, I'd have to put a vote in on the LS.
Of the options given, forget about rb26 or 2J unless you have a $10k+ budget.
Sr20 and b230 will need work to reliably handle the 300-400hp you'd want, and that work would not be engineerable cheaply.
Of the 1jz and rb25 it's no competition - 1jz all day for reliability and actually making power. They have such a short stroke you can rev them quite high whilst keeping piston speeds low.
Issue is that the gearboxes go for more than engines these days, so a 1JZ + R154 will see you at $3.5k before you've looked at putting it in a car. And then it is difficult to engineer things on turbo cars.
So in short, an LS without oiling issues would win it for cost, weight, simplicity of swap and easy power.

But it's still a filthy LS...

Vee_Que

Andy;107204 wroteYou can pick up complete 200k LS engines for 1400 these days and will be perfect in stock form. They might need new rod, main bearings and a oil pump but they are cheap anyway. I picked up a Tr6060 with 6000ks on it for 1600. The whole swap could be done for 6k with a converted 8.8 diff.

With weak valve springs and if your paying someone the work, they won't just do the bare minimum in the real world. Seal kits and bearings and misc wear and tear parts add up quicker than people who have access to machine shops realise.

ljk346

mmm getting the idea that Ls and 1jz is fav so far
seems the most logical

deleted_user_160

They are the two most swapped engines. And with great reason. Ls and jz are quite abundant, as they are used in many platforms. And the world of aftermarket parts and knowledge for these is next to infinite.
It also helps the reputation the jz family have.

SirNemesis

"You cannot do an LS1 conversion for under $10k" - People of the internet.

ljk346

SirNemesis;107293 wrote"You cannot do an LS1 conversion for under $10k" - People of the internet.

Whys that?
Can get a 1999 commodore with an LS1 for 5k

Samman88

SirNemesis;107293 wrote"You cannot do an LS1 conversion for under $10k" - People of the internet.

No one's saying that.

deleted_user_160

I honestly think you could do it for under or very close to 10k.
I can't imagine it would be very well done.
But it would be done.

When I priced everything up, I gauged a half decent build unopened engine, at 14k

Philia_Bear

SirNemesis;107293 wrote"You cannot do an LS1 conversion for under $10k" - People of the internet.

Its partially true
If you have to ask how to do it... its going to cost more then $10k
If you can be handed the motor and a car and be able to just do it... then easily done for under $10k