[saab] Pastry's 3rd suspiciously cheap Swedish Hauler

pastry · 2017-05-05T06:15:10+00:00

Hopefully this one treats you better than the xc...

pastry

bought by Spyker first, who made a noble effort to keep the lights on but were ultimately unable to keep funds rolling, or work around the restrictions GM placed on the sale.

@bigal this is the model that is notoriously (some may say implausibly..) "faster than a 911 Turbo between 40 and 70mph"

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=226&t=66396&i=0

it's pretty awesome but I'd take the 911.

bigal

Ah yes familiar with that story.

That is a crazy good find.. a manual!! That is a keeper!

bigal

There's a very strange loud noise coming from that saab in the video.. better get it looked at. Electrical arcing? It seems to have an interesting somewhat rhythmic beat to it.

pastry

took me a min :D

yeah some kind of chemical beat

pastry

Had a big weekend on this one prior to rego.

- Both top engine mounts (hutchison)
- Trans torque rod (hutchison)
- ARB / Sway bar links (meyle hd)
- Tie rod ends (meyle hd)
- tailgate struts
- bonnet struts
- cabin filter
- air filter
- sorted a minor oil leak
- pulled out the ancient and convoluted mobile phone kit (Nokia 6800 or something)
- had a bodge at alignment but needs doing properly

Went through its annual inspection without fuss, noted a minor oil weep which is probably the oil pressure sensor.

Running pretty good now. Few more suspension bits to replace and upgrade, rear springs and shocks are tired so trying to budget for a Bilstein/Eibach kit in the not-too-distant.

Enjoying it but since the XC is having "a rest" it's had to take on family duties for a bit. Hoping Mrs Pastry doesn't unwittingly injure it – I wasn't quite ready to let it loose TBH without more observation and tinkering..

One easily observed result of switching from the AWD to the FWD is that this thing spins its wheels like a deranged madman going up our drive. A firmer rear end might help but that FWD for you (and the driveway mob utterly failing to make the bitumen surface solid, but that's another moan...)

pastry

With the XC90 returned to general service it’s time to give the Aero some attention.

Over the last few months it has continued to drop oil. I think it’s just a very poorly sealed pan (wrong adhesive) but I want to pull the head to have a look. I’m hoping it’s not the main seal or something like that.

The rear suspension has also progressively sagged. It creaks and moans in the back near side.

I haven’t got much budget for work at the moment, so not quite sure how to approach it. I do have some new parts kicking about, but not enough for a proper preventative overhaul.

New parts I’ve got:

- full set of bottom end bearings
- 2x head gaskets
- 3x Valve cover gaskets
- some rear suspension bushes
- Rear brake pads
- Front strut mounts + bearings
- Ball joint I didn’t have last time
- Aux belt (short mod)

I’ve always planned to go for forged pistons,but not sure I can until later. Likewise balance and timing chain might have to wait. No sign there’s anything wrong with these.

I might have to splash out on suspension and leave the engine as is for now. Tempted to do the bearings but it seems smarter to leave that for doing with the pistons.

Anyway, started pulling it apart yesterday ready for the head to come off.

bigal

such an awesome ~~shed~~ saab.

pastry

Thanks Al, I like them a lot.

I have a suspicion the head has been off before, but with kms this low (relatively..) and it running so well, I wonder why?

Hopefully there are some shiny forged pistons and conrods in there!

pastry

Ugh.

Some chump has misaligned the timing cover in the past and then come up with a genius solution!

That’s right - trim the gasket to match the misalignment, then just spam sealant around the rest, and hope for the best.

The head felt way over-torqued to compensate.

You can also see there's a broken timing chain guide in the top photo.

Another engine coming out!

On this last one you can see all the shitty permatex around the LHS, before I trimmed it off.

pastry

Hah, I’ve been told this is something dealerships always did. Yuck.

pastry

in the wise words of James..

jamesinc;101115 wroteAll good projects start with removing the engine.

Yup!

Found that one of the timing chain guides is broken so I'm spending an hour here and there on this, almost ready to pull the engine. It's all come apart nice and easy and I've found a few small issues I might not have noticed.

So, new chain kit going in. I might push this out over a few months so I can get the forged pistons in while it's all out. No budget for it really but seems crazy not to.

Of course this also means having the cylinder walls honed and some other heavy engineering works kind of stuff.

I'm not hugely confident at this level, patience, workshop cleanliness etc all big factors.. not sure if I can afford to get an engineering shop to assemble it.. or indeed if I can afford not to!

pauljloz

I keep hearing someone in the distant past muttering ...... Stationary And Always Broken

Vee_Que

Why does it need forged pistons again? Are they known to be weak? I couldn't imagine them being different to volvos where they all seem to be for for stupid power levels that most cars never see, the only gain is in availability at times etc.

Although you if the bores are good, you don't need to over bore, just a hone and stay at stock piston size and more bore strength.

pastry

Yes, the pistons are a weak point in these cars. They're ok at stock power but not recommended above 300hp, so I'm looking to the future.

Bear in mind it's already 250hp out the factory, so I think I'll reach that before long. I'd also say there's a cost benefit in new pistons with new rings / pins included, over just doing the rings. Stock pistons are (last I checked) more expensive.

The older "T5" cars have much stronger pistons, nominally good for 500hp.

- - -
T5 = B234 engined Saab 9000, and B204 engined Saab 900 + 9-3 (1994-1999)

Vee_Que;130533 wroteAlthough you if the bores are good, you don't need to over bore, just a hone and stay at stock piston size and more bore strength.

bores looks good so far, so yes hoping to hone and use 90mm, otherwise 90.5 are same price with presumably a very light bore.

pastry

I realise I'm probably trying to convince myself here, too.. I could probably leave well alone at the moment, once i clean up all that carbon on the crowns. Knowing me, I would inevitably get shit and some loose metal shaving in the bores and then score the crap out of the walls, and lose a ring ;)

pastry

and then, the engine came out

pastry

Slow and steady progress as I get chance. Looking pretty good in there, other than the chain guide..

Smashed up guide:

Carbon build up on piston crowns (also evident primarily on the intake valves)

Clutch disk

- - -

I had a look in the oil pan, fair bit of flaked sealant in there but no sign of sludge (phew!)

I think I'm probably going to push out the budget and get the Wossner's in, now I'm at this point.

From what I've read and been told by those in the know, it'll probably just need a hone to set clearance for the 90mm Wossners. Trying to get the machine shop to give me a quote is proving a sticking point though. Why is it so bloody painful to deal with so many Aus businesses? Argh!

Vee_Que

They don't mind dealing with trade, but the general public is annoying because of not knowing the level of experience of the person you may do the work for, it cannot control the final outcome.

pastry

You might be right there. I'm pretty clueless and have an annoying pommy accent, so guess I'm black balled all the way!

@Spac do you know these guys? http://www.belconnenenginecentre.com.au/

The guy I spoke to there seemed helpful, waiting on a quote for the body of work (inc. decking etc along with the hone, which sounded reasonable enough). Bit of a trek to Canberra but local guys are not getting back to me.

timbo

All the Canberra machine shops fix their prices
I use phillip head service. i dont have any experience with belconnen engines other than having to rebuild a grey motor around 12 months after they had previously done it, as they either didnt notice the crank was worn or they just decided to throw it together and charge the customer 5 grand

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