Cubics V50 T5 R-design

cubic25 · 2017-04-14T04:14:37+00:00

Welcome! I have the D5 but sadly no Milltek exhaust - with this on board the D5 sounds like the T5's evil twin :)

sucksqueezebangblow

Interested for sure!

lasercowboy

I'm so in love with this car. As the owner of an S40 in the same colour (but wishing it was a V50...) I am biased, but damn that looks smart in titanium grey!

cubic25

sucksqueezebangblow;105487 wroteInterested for sure!

Message sent.

cubic25

What are people's thoughts and experiences with exhaust wraps?
Should I attempt to make some sort of shield, or should I just wrap the zorst?
I'm just concerned about wraps making the exhaust crack, as I've read.

I really want to keep engine bay temps down.

Also, moral and environment concerns aside, is there any gains to be had from a cat delete? The car is tuned to be catless, but currently has a 200cell.

sucksqueezebangblow

I've done ceramic coating on turbo manifolds and dump pipes on the ke20 and xr6t. I'm not sure I'd bother again.

cubic25

sucksqueezebangblow;106083 wroteI've done ceramic coating

Apparently ceramic coating is great for extending exhaust life, but not so good at retaining heat. Although it does make a difference, apparently it is negligible.
Also, I'm not about to take the exhaust off to get it done. I'm trying to do this on the cheap.

Philia_Bear

Your not wrapping the manifold without pulling the motor
Even with the motor pulled its a PITA

Swap the turbo with the RS500 turbo if you want stupid power... otherwise live with what you have
Even then... the RS500 turbo can have a K24 coldside put onto it for stupidly huge power... (300KW+)

cubic25

Philia_Bear;106088 wroteSwap the turbo with the RS500 turbo if you want stupid power..

Not looking for more power. Very happy with what I have. I'm just wanting to maximise its potential. I want it to work and make its power as efficiently as possible.
I want to keep engine bay temps down for reliability.

cubic25

Philia_Bear;106088 wroteYour not wrapping the manifold without pulling the motor

Is it really that hard to get to from underneath? Mate has a hoist, so could do it on that.
I didn't think the turbos on these were that hard to get to. In saying that, I haven't had a proper look at how it would be wrapped. Just floating ideas.

Philia_Bear

cubic25;106090 wrote
Philia_Bear;106088 wroteYour not wrapping the manifold without pulling the motor
Is it really that hard to get to from underneath? Mate has a hoist, so could do it on that.
I didn't think the turbos on these were that hard to get to. In saying that, I haven't had a proper look at how it would be wrapped. Just floating ideas.

You can get the turbo in an out only because its not wrapped

cubic25

So wrapping is in the too hard basket then? :/
A shield is going to look bloody ugly.

Philia_Bear

the factory exhaust manifold is covered in shields from the factory

cubic25

When I say shield, I mean something that will isolate it from the engine bay..... Somehow.

Bah! This whole thing is starting to sound a bit too ghetto. I think I'm going to give up on the idea.
I should have got the DP ceramic coated when I purchased it.

Vee_Que

It's a cast iron manifold, you're worrying about things that don't make much of a difference. You could do a heat shield with the Acl stuff like an xr6t used.

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder, you either have practical or good looking most of the time. You should wrap the down pipe though with titanium wrap, it makes a big difference for under foot floor temps. Ceramic coating is covered in another thread recently if you look outside of modern ;)

sucksqueezebangblow

cubic25;106086 wrote
sucksqueezebangblow;106083 wroteI've done ceramic coating
Apparently ceramic coating is great for extending exhaust life, but not so good at retaining heat. Although it does make a difference, apparently it is negligible.
Also, I'm not about to take the exhaust off to get it done. I'm trying to do this on the cheap.

On a street car where you are only on boost sporadically it is negligible, however it is meant to keep the gas flowing quicker for better turbo spool.

It looks really good though (although you won't ever get to see it on our volvos because it's tucked right behind the motor)

I wrapped my xr6t manifold originally and that was a damn sight easier to access than the Volvo one would be but I still thought it ended up looking like ass, so bought a second manifold and dump and got it coated.

I have a spare Volvo manifold/turbo. You are welcome to take it, get it coated and install it then give me your original manifold back if you want to reduce downtime.

As it is I believe the factory puts some kind of coating on it anyway as they don't get the surface rust like other cast manifolds get.

cubic25

Vee_Que;106100 wroteCeramic coating is covered in another thread recently if you look outside of modern

Cheeky :p I got the idea from the other thread about the 3 inch dump pipe, but I didn't want to hijack it.

Thanks for the offer @sucksqueezebangblow, but I think I'll pass on this. No one else is doing it, so it mustn't really be an issue. Thanks for the advice all.

Vee_Que

Both my cars run wrapped headers/dump pipes, they don't look like ass, I'm unsure how it does, it's literally a wrap. And you can't see it anyway...

sucksqueezebangblow

Vee_Que;106109 wroteBoth my cars run wrapped headers/dump pipes, they don't look like ass, I'm unsure how it does, it's literally a wrap. And you can't see it anyway...

Extractors and tubular manifold look very good wrapped but the xr6t's log manifold - I just couldn't get looking neat enough for my satisfaction with the tight bends at the flange.

Vee_Que

No need to wrap a cast iron manifold though, especially as the xr6t uses a very good heat shield. The dump pipe is the real issue.

cubic25

Hey all,

A while ago I purchased some Bilstein B8 front shocks and some Gaz adjustable rear shocks from @AshDVS , to replace the shitty Koni FSD's I had. At the same time, I also got the Whiteling WALK and a set of adjustable spring perches for the rear. Ash has been very helpful and friendly during the whole process. Couldn't be happier with the service :+1:

Due to being so busy, (hence my absence from the forum......not that anyone would notice, considering how little I know about other Volvo's :flushed: ), I only just had a chance to fit and adjust everything recently.

The Koni FSD's had around 80-100K km on them, and they were shagged. You could push the fronts down with your pinky and they wouldn't return. Along with that, my front left control arm bush was cactus. No wonder it felt like I was driving on the bump stops all the time and the car was pulling left hard.

The way the car feels now is a complete contrast. I can't even put into words how much better it feels because they wouldn't do it justice.
The best way to describe it would be solid, planted and confident. Potholes no longer disturb the chassis. The car goes over them with a solid sounding thud, rather than a hollow, chassis vibrating mess. I no longer clench my butt checks when hitting speed bumps, etc.
On some familiar roads with sweeping bends, I used to plant my foot and the car would keep going straight until I backed off and found traction. I can now keep my foot planted around bends and it feels like it wants to keep going. I'd love to hook up a G-force meter to see how many more G's it can pull around corners.
The other big difference is mid-corner directional changes and S bends. In the past, the car would be very slow to react. In contrast, I don't even have to back off anymore. It does directional changes on a whim and wags its arse around a little bit too. It is a lot more 'chuckable' and fun.

I am also riding on PS4's now. Coming from PS3's, I am yet to really test them to notice a huge difference.

All up, I am rapt with the new set up. Big thanks to @AshDVS . :D

I'd be more than happy to recommend this B8, Gaz and Eibach set up to anyone. :+1:

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