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  • Cal's '85 245_Iced VoVo

Jesus, $1200 for an exhaust!?

I wouldn't go with the stage 3 clutch for a turbo build, I offer a 240mm flat flywheel conversion for a t5 disc, and a 235mm m46 clutch fits and will cost about $700 with the lighter flywheel over the dished one.
Vee_Que;119414 wroteJesus, $1200 for an exhaust!?

I wouldn't go with the stage 3 clutch for a turbo build, I offer a 240mm flat flywheel conversion for a t5 disc, and a 235mm m46 clutch fits and will cost about $700 with the lighter flywheel over the dished one.
A good turbo back with supports and high flow cat, yeah
Not in Melbourne. But yeah.
jamesinc;119412 wroteNA 16v build might be interesting. If you can get a 740/940 turbo donor car for a good price, a turbo conversion would be easy. I found doing it in a 240, it's the little things that get you. Radiator fan, IC supports, etc, most of which you'll have with a donor car, but if you buy a turbo and a manifold and think you're half way there, you are not.

If you go turbo remember to put ~$1200 aside for a decent full downpipe and exhaust.
Thanks for the input James, at this stage i'm leaning towards 16V, i know @Massey165 has some heads. As much as i'd love to turbo I have reliability concerns which may or may not be rational, i probably wouldn't do it unless I did an entire engine swap, my b230e has 320k on it, i fear with the higher compression block i would blow it up. But then 16V is probably the same concern, maybe even more so as it's more components. At this stage it's still my daily..
Vee_Que;119414 wroteJesus, $1200 for an exhaust!?

I wouldn't go with the stage 3 clutch for a turbo build, I offer a 240mm flat flywheel conversion for a t5 disc, and a 235mm m46 clutch fits and will cost about $700 with the lighter flywheel over the dished one.
Sorry, i need you to educate me a little here.
Could/would you still use this on NA?
Do you mean pairing a t5 disc with an m46 pressure plate?
Is that 700 the flywheel alone?

Thanks
I wouldn't worry about compression. The rods will be fine, just install a knock sensor to ensure you don't overdo it on the timing. You can buy kits online and hook up an LED on your dash somewhere. Very easy to do.
Also, every time I mention the cost of an exhaust, someone tells me it's a crazy amount, yet every cheaper solution always has come with a catch: it rattles, it's uncoated mild steel, it didn't include the downpipe/reused some of the existing bends, it uses slip joints, it doesn't have a catalytic converter, it only uses a single resonator, I had to take it back three times to get them to adjust it properly, the downpipe isn't braced properly to the bellhousing, or I ran it under the rear axle.
I would, increased compression forces the rings out and if they are already weak, so fail. Same with a 16v build, you could flycut the pistons in your car, but it would need a re ring regardless. And there's no point doing an Na build if you don't go higher than stock compression, they will be happy at 11:1 with a tune. Alloy heads dissipate heat faster so you can use more compression than you can on my 122s b20 for instance.

Other way around, the 240mm pressure plate with the 235/230mm dished flywheel clutch disc to suit the m46. Dished flywheels get slip issues due to the design. Particularly with turbo builds. You can use it on an Na build, the lighter flywheel is an advantage for a start, about 15kg vs 20kg for the setup James has.
The exhaust a friend had recently made was from end to end and he didn't want to re use any parts supplied other than a stainless straight section, 3" with a supplied muffler and no other issues. Nothing wrong with mild steel in Australia outside of the snow too.
Cal;119404 wroteI'll run the gauntlet as your first customer. If the heater works does that mean it just needs a regas and the compressor is sweet?
Happy to have a look at your A/C if you need mate. Located in Daceyville.
Volvo850;119490 wrote
Cal;119404 wroteI'll run the gauntlet as your first customer. If the heater works does that mean it just needs a regas and the compressor is sweet?
Happy to have a look at your A/C if you need mate. Located in Daceyville.
Awesome, cars currently sitting on the central coast, i'll hit you up when I get it back to Syd. Thanks heaps!
Cal;119492 wrote
Volvo850;119490 wrote
Cal;119404 wroteI'll run the gauntlet as your first customer. If the heater works does that mean it just needs a regas and the compressor is sweet?
Happy to have a look at your A/C if you need mate. Located in Daceyville.
Awesome, cars currently sitting on the central coast, i'll hit you up when I get it back to Syd. Thanks heaps!
Where on the central coast is it located? I could come up and have a look if need be?
20 days later
In regards to clutch replacement options I found an 8.5" HD exedy clutch, suited for a flat flywheel.
According to an Anthony Hyde article:

"INTRO - All early model 240's (1977-85) with mechanical K-Jet fuel injection used a flat flywheel with a clutch disc diameter of 8.5"

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Clutch/clutch_upgrade.htm

This should work should it not?
If it does the affordability appeals to me for this build, I can stick with the original fly.
That it literally the clutch I offer on a redrilled flywheel...
2 months later
On Tuesday night we loaded up my brothers Forrester to begin a round trip from Sydney to Meredith Music Festival. As we neared Wollongong his clutch started giving up on the hills so we turned back to Sydney and much to my pleasure loaded up the Volvo (with what I would guess was 500kgs of luggage, beer and human) and set off again for our second attempt that same night.
2400kms later I returned to Sydney prouder than ever, albeit a tad fried from 3 days partying and 12 hours driving with no overdrive. The only issue that arose was a loose calliper that I was able to repair thanks to some advice from Bruce.
Volvo for the win.




She looks as beautiful as ever mate. Would love to come have a look at the overdrive for you.

I'm happy to pitch in overdrive skills. I have at least one functional AW70 gearbox that I don't want.
jamesinc;126179 wroteI'm happy to pitch in overdrive skills. I have at least one functional AW70 gearbox that I don't want.
I finally found the fault, after resoldering the relay probably unnecessarily and checking the wires in the cabin and gear lever I went under the car and found one of the plugs that sleeve over the terminals on top of the transmission to be completely dissintergrated. Was thinking I can just cut the end off and crimp the wire around the little nipple thang and tape it up...
Shitty picture, at least it gives you an idea of how fiddly it is reaching blindly up there
If you want to make life a lot easier, drop the rear cross member and tilt the gearbox down. Just wedge a towel between the head and the firewall so you don't scratch anything.

If you rewire it, get some adhesive heatshrink from jaycar and cover the entire wire, it should stop it degrading further.
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