Philia_Bear;114878 wrotesawzall all the way
Sawzall all the way.

The only way to remove an engine from a FWD volvo you dont care about. Made removing the T6 from the S80 a BREEEEEZEE
hmm i do have a reciprocating saw..

Funny/anger inducing story, wife went to buy a chainsaw, Bunnings person told her he didn't like to sell them to women so suggested it instead. Surprised she didn't kill him but instead we have a sawzall.

It's utter dogshit for cutting down trees.
Philia_Bear;114878 wrotesawzall all the way
Same for v70....

And those stupid back seats in a v70!
Am half way through that now, cutting like a butcher!
Love my 28V Milwaukee.
Sawzall is mad for cutting little tree limbs though!
I prefer a hand saw or secateurs. My sawzall is the kind you have to plug in, double shit. Farking Bunnings..
If your going to do it do it right 16" concrete cutter nothing better
TerryA;114913 wroteIf your going to kill yourself do it right 16" concrete cutter nothing better
Got some compression numbers.

Drivers side to Passenger (L-R from front):

125 | 75 | 125 | 75 | 125

#2 wet (drop of oil) remained at 75
#4 wet rose to 110

Obv v. cold engine and it wouldn't crank for much more than a few seconds. Regardless, #2 could be an issue.

Good fuel pressure @ 60psi

Just noticed it has an "Immobiliser" message, could be a big part of the no-start! Guess due to being crashed. A safety feature, no doubt.

I'll see if I can get anything from ODBII reader once my infrequently used Android tab is charged up.


Ok when it's trying to start its getting a P2510, Power Relay Sensor Circuit
P2510 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module detecting the ignition relay is open or shorted causing the relay to not come on or turn off.
Have read a few things about the immobiliser warning relating to the ignition relay.
I got a last min invite to go camping so didn't get anything done over the weekend.

In my spare moments yesterday I did chop out the front end crash bar (Sawzall truly FTW!) and I've just about got the radiator etc out – just need to drain fluids so I can pull the two trans cooler hoses.



Looks like I'll have good access to the lump at that point, some tight packaging to work around and lots of hoses and lines to consider for anyone new to these engines, like me.

There were some sections of crushed wiring up front – seemed to be connected to the MAF so guess that's another reason it wouldn't start.

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For the good feels I moved the cluster and steering wheel over to the XC90. The newer look stalks are nice, and not snapped – which is good. The cluster was a slightly different shape, so I had to trim the tabs off. Seems rigid enough without screws but I could always drive a self-tapper if it needs it, there's room. Added a few kms to the odo.. ah well.



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Long way to go. Should have it out this weekend.

Considering the compression figures I'm wondering if I should be thinking of re-ringing while it's out? Not that keen to pull then head off, but should I? Input appreciated!


I'd have thought so. The compression isn't great and given the amount of effort you are already going to, refreshing the engine seems like a good investment.
Yeah I think so too. Thankfully I'll save a bit now that I am inevitably having to do it myself.



pastry;115158 wroteI got a last min invite to go camping so didn't get anything done over the weekend.

In my spare moments yesterday I did chop out the front end crash bar (Sawzall truly FTW!) and I've just about got the radiator etc out – just need to drain fluids so I can pull the two trans cooler hoses.



Looks like I'll have good access to the lump at that point, some tight packaging to work around and lots of hoses and lines to consider for anyone new to these engines, like me.

There were some sections of crushed wiring up front – seemed to be connected to the MAF so guess that's another reason it wouldn't start.

---

For the good feels I moved the cluster and steering wheel over to the XC90. The newer look stalks are nice, and not snapped – which is good. The cluster was a slightly different shape, so I had to trim the tabs off. Seems rigid enough without screws but I could always drive a self-tapper if it needs it, there's room. Added a few kms to the odo.. ah well.



---

Long way to go. Should have it out this weekend.

Considering the compression figures I'm wondering if I should be thinking of re-ringing while it's out? Not that keen to pull then head off, but should I? Input appreciated!

A set of rings costs $450 from fcpeuro iirc. That would cause compression issues if the lifters bled down. Which happens with a car that hasn't Ran in months.
$36.07 a set, so $180 USD. Not catastrophic. Interesting thought though. What do you think I should do @Vee_Que?

EDIT: ya know what, i had cranked it a lot before testing. Might've been a good dose of fuel in those two cylinders. That might explain why it's 2 and 4 (crank position) ?
I must be getting confused with bearings then :s sorry.

Try again if you can, d/c the injectors and go for it. Remember to use open throttle too.
go time, wish my luck with my first Volvo engine removal :)



pastry;115441 wrotego time, wish my luck with my first Volvo engine removal :)


Ping me if you need help
Woohoo, was it easy enough