Delilah the surf Wagon - 1980 245 GL

alexjellie · 2016-12-07T07:08:58+00:00

iirc my '78 245 got surprisingly poor fuel economy too. maybe giving it the berries all the time for fun caused it... they do rev highly, I was forever goin...

alexjellie

Photo update, plus new styling recommended by mates (professional photoshop)

alexjellie

Slowbrick;93682 wroteThe early ones have a circlip in the wiper arm that breaks and you lose the whole arm (ask me how I know lol). These arms are hard to find as they were only used for a few years. Later they went to the threaded spindle that has a nut to hold down the arm. This is the one you want.

@Slowbrick
Looking into this at the moment, does this require the whole spindle unit swap (i.e unbolting the pulleys and all) or just the tip?

goodenough

I love the colour. Nice one mate.

Slowbrick

alexjellie;116433 wrote
Slowbrick;93682 wroteThe early ones have a circlip in the wiper arm that breaks and you lose the whole arm (ask me how I know lol). These arms are hard to find as they were only used for a few years. Later they went to the threaded spindle that has a nut to hold down the arm. This is the one you want.
@Slowbrick
Looking into this at the moment, does this require the whole spindle unit swap (i.e unbolting the pulleys and all) or just the tip?

You gotta replace the entire mechanism. You can keep your existing motor but from memory the rods and cabling are slightly different. It's definitely a job you do at the same time as a heater core.

alexjellie

Bugger, I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. Thanks @Slowbrick

Are there any alternatives such as swapping the arm but keeping the spline mount?

Slowbrick

You can swap the arm when it breaks but getting them is the hard part. After having two break and not being able to get more after raiding @Spac's cars I just took the weekend off to do the heater and replace the spindles.

alexjellie

In an unfortunate yet funny series of events i think I have snapped off the thread that mounts the pivot ball (?) within the clutch housing. This is for a hydraulic clutch and is the pivot that sits between the centre spline and outer edge of the clutch housing, the point where the clutch pivots about.

Without disassembling everything yet it looks like its a cast in piece and i'll need to tack it back on or similar, anyone had this pop up before?

VolvoHordz

No not cast in. It has a nut on the back side sandwiched between the bellhousing and the gearbox. The nut can't spin so in theory an easy out or some other method could be used to remove whats left of the pivot allowing you to screw a new one in.

alexjellie

thanks @VolvoHordz - any guess at a size? Struggling to find sizes in the manual

VolvoHordz

As in thread pitch? I'd have guessed M8x1.25 but a quick search suggests 5/16" fine thread

forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=262648

alexjellie

I've started having some fuel pump relay issues which I know are due to a long dead in tank pump causing an overload on the relay (?)
Can anyone recommend the best place to get a new in tank fuel pump - I've looked on IPD and FCP - one having what looks like a nice complete kit but something local would be better.

Also is there a good alternative to buying the lock ring attachment - seems like a waste of $$$

Cal

I got the pre-pump kit on IPD, came with everything i needed, pretty quickly too.

Item #: 111016
Description: PRE PUMP KIT

You may know already but until you have it replaced don't let your fuel drop below 1/3 full

alexjellie

Thanks @Cal - it has from time to time, usually accompanied by a bit of whinging from the main fuel pump.

Slowbrick

alexjellie;127414 wroteI've started having some fuel pump relay issues which I know are due to a long dead in tank pump causing an overload on the relay (?)
Can anyone recommend the best place to get a new in tank fuel pump - I've looked on IPD and FCP - one having what looks like a nice complete kit but something local would be better.

Also is there a good alternative to buying the lock ring attachment - seems like a waste of $$$

Buy your pump from Rock Auto or FCP if you want reasonable shipping. Alternative to the lock tool is a hammer and big screwdriver. Make sure you have a new tank seal as well.

Canoe

As Tom Jones used to say "Why, why ,why, Deliliah These pics explain "WHY".

Canoe

bgpzfm142;101201 wrote
alex.jellie;101150 wroteCurrently resolving dash electronics, have no dash lights, fan or console lights. Replaced fuses but no luck, dreading going through the wiring...

Does anyone have a pro tip for finding electrical faults in this circuit?
Bit like that proverbial piece of string - nobody else knows how long it is, until you do some measurements.

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com is your friend.

Wanna hear a WAG (wild arsed guess)? Well, lucky you; you'll get one anyway : One or more earth wires may have been disconnected when you've replaced the sound system. Often times, they're attached to one of the screws that hold the centre console in place.

Had a TERRIBLE earth problem in a 1993 240 sedan once. I turned the indicators on, and the windscreen wipers went on in a really weird way. It was an earth that had gone rusty in the engine bay drivers side..

alexjellie

@Cal

Cal;127419 wroteI got the pre-pump kit on IPD, came with everything i needed, pretty quickly too.

Item #: 111016
Description: PRE PUMP KIT

You may know already but until you have it replaced don't let your fuel drop below 1/3 full

I'm about to embark on the new pump install tonight - I've had a read of the cleanflametrap guide but just wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks to look out for?

I'm budgeting about 2 hours to swap out/in - sound about right?

jamesinc

@alexjellie my best tip is to make sure you vacuum or otherwise clear any loose dirt or crud away from the tank before cracking the top off. Also the lid might fight you, I don't know if all 240s are the same but on the older ones the lid can get a bit of corrosion and seize in place, a bit of WD40 does wonders.

Cal

mmmm i seem to remember it being pretty straightforward albeit a bit of a squeeze getting the mechanism back in, had to kind of lever it in.. Once in place just make sure the floats movement isn't hindered as this is what gives you the fuel level reading
Yeah and as James said the lid can be a prick, pretty sure i ended up wedging a massive flat head against it at a low angle and hitting it with a mallet to loosen it

Cal

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