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Isn't there an oil cooler on the oil filter feed of the 960 sump too? It looks complicated for what it is to me based on my experience with early whiteblocks. Not that I can find a pic of the rnc sump or any info.
1963 Volvo Amazon T5
Yeah there is but it's bulky and points the fittings into the steering (not much room in an amazon engine bay with a T5 in it! 960 oil feed is completely different to the newer white blocks. It is complicated until you work it out then it's astonishingly simple but that's what makes it interesting, just curious how does it look complicated for what it is to you based on your experience with early white blocks? Have you had any experience with the RNC whiteblocks? They are very similar engines but also vastly different in some aspects, the oil cooler feed and return run through the sump to an external cooler that's bolted to the exhaust side of the sump and is fed from the block mid way down the intake side and oil filter housing and pcv are a one piece component that bolts to the side of the block.Vee_Que;116706 wroteIsn't there an oil cooler on the oil filter feed of the 960 sump too? It looks complicated for what it is to me based on my experience with early whiteblocks.
Here's the c30 sump and the 960 sump to compare,
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The one peice pcv I read about. The rest isn't explained as most people don't do what you have done. Mostly due to cost. Which is my reason why I've had nothing to do with late model rnc whiteblocks too.
Thanks for explaining as the information specifically on this isn't out there so everyone benefits.
Thanks for explaining as the information specifically on this isn't out there so everyone benefits.
That's ok. I've noticed that you have mentioned the cost involved in using this engine before in my thread and I thought I might just give you a run down on it.Vee_Que;116726 wroteThe one peice pcv I read about. The rest isn't explained as most people don't do what you have done. Mostly due to cost. Which is my reason why I've had nothing to do with late model rnc whiteblocks too.
Thanks for explaining as the information specifically on this isn't out there so everyone benefits.
You can pick up a statutory write off c30/s40 T5 for around $1500 and with this you get your engine, loom, fuel system (if you choose to use it) intercooler and intake system you also get a perfectly useable cooling system bar the oil side of things.
What you also get is a forward facing plenum and rear facing turbo so in the grand scheme of things it's actually a very cheap way of getting a modern T5 into a project car.
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Yeah, I am sure they come up at that price on a rare occasion. The engine mount side of thing is the biggest disadvantage followed by the liners cracking, which you have faced. Not as common on a 2.3 even with the rod ratio being slightly worse.
How will you stop this motor cracking liners like the last one with the same parts fitted?
Having to use all the little modules is not appealing to me and others either. As well as the exhaust manifold setup that is not ideal for rwd vs the earlier ones. At least going from the pics you have.
Welding an intake when the sump is done is not a huge deal.
And a complete 98 whiteblock turbo car is $300~ and in a 240/740, you use an all alloy drop in ic and the p80 fan as well as the wiring that doesn't need anything else to work. Fuel system? Nothing is really compatible with each other, 240/740s run a big external and any pump in an used car is not worth re using. And being older means emissions compliance is less of a hassle too. Yes it will need the valve stems done, but the quick look at pickles gives me high km later model cars anyway. So no different in that regard.
How will you stop this motor cracking liners like the last one with the same parts fitted?
Having to use all the little modules is not appealing to me and others either. As well as the exhaust manifold setup that is not ideal for rwd vs the earlier ones. At least going from the pics you have.
Welding an intake when the sump is done is not a huge deal.
And a complete 98 whiteblock turbo car is $300~ and in a 240/740, you use an all alloy drop in ic and the p80 fan as well as the wiring that doesn't need anything else to work. Fuel system? Nothing is really compatible with each other, 240/740s run a big external and any pump in an used car is not worth re using. And being older means emissions compliance is less of a hassle too. Yes it will need the valve stems done, but the quick look at pickles gives me high km later model cars anyway. So no different in that regard.
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@Vee_Que I'm not debating that the old white block is a cheaper option, I'm just saying that the RNC whiteblock is also a good contender or a 5cyl swap maybe for people that want something more modern with better fuel economy and maybe even just something different than what everyone else is doing, on a side note regarding emissions you just have to run a charcoal canister and evap purge it's pretty simple, the fuel pumps in the c30s very rarely go and the fuel system is a stand alone unit so you would just need to make a couple of simple mounts. Pickles is not the most ideal place to source cars there are much cheaper options my c30 was $1300 with 110000 on it.
I'll also add a photo of the turbo location so you can have a better look at it. And as you know the amazon engine bay is very narrow and it still fits.
I'll also add a photo of the turbo location so you can have a better look at it. And as you know the amazon engine bay is very narrow and it still fits.
Its fairly common to see rod failure on early whiteblocks before you get near destroying a liner.
Fritz is using the stock k04 currently so no need to shim the block yet, but the previous liner cracked due to running the k16 from the rs focus at 25+psi. It survived 12 months of abuse but ultimately failed as the c30 runs 9 to 1 compression vs rs focus @ 8.5 to 1.
Exhaust manifold setup is spot on for rwd vs early whiteblock which mounts the downpipe at the front of the motor if left in its stock orientation.
Using stock ecu and modules makes engineering a breeze and its not as scary as it seems.
Intake manifold will look like trash if you cut and shut it but you do you veeque
Fritz is using the stock k04 currently so no need to shim the block yet, but the previous liner cracked due to running the k16 from the rs focus at 25+psi. It survived 12 months of abuse but ultimately failed as the c30 runs 9 to 1 compression vs rs focus @ 8.5 to 1.
Exhaust manifold setup is spot on for rwd vs early whiteblock which mounts the downpipe at the front of the motor if left in its stock orientation.
Using stock ecu and modules makes engineering a breeze and its not as scary as it seems.
Intake manifold will look like trash if you cut and shut it but you do you veeque
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No need to cut and shut them. They don't look like trash. Just not a plastic thing.
Not saying it's not an option, but most people don't exactly see a car like you're talking about or have a friend who works in a volvo workshop who likes wiring, to do the job. This is in general.
Also for a compression ratio that small to make the difference in damaging a sleeve with a larger factory turbo size, it doesn't instill me with confidence, most of the reason you go to a whiteblock is more power, so straight away, rods are done with the engine out, as well as the head, no different to a redblock.
Although late squirter redblocks stock will handle 300whp all day long with the right tune. Just like yld244. High boost, gt35r and motec.
Not saying it's not an option, but most people don't exactly see a car like you're talking about or have a friend who works in a volvo workshop who likes wiring, to do the job. This is in general.
Also for a compression ratio that small to make the difference in damaging a sleeve with a larger factory turbo size, it doesn't instill me with confidence, most of the reason you go to a whiteblock is more power, so straight away, rods are done with the engine out, as well as the head, no different to a redblock.
Although late squirter redblocks stock will handle 300whp all day long with the right tune. Just like yld244. High boost, gt35r and motec.
@Vee_Que not quite sure why you still assume I'm not doing the work myself? I'll give you some background on me...
I have an extensive knowledge of industrial automation (wiring up a car is a walk in the park) I've worked as a spray painter painting semi trucks, for the past 5 years I've worked in the metal fabrication industry and now I'm the supervisor of a timber joinery, I've been building cars since I was 15. Yeah it's handy having a shop to work in but if I didn't I'd still get it done in a driveway or even on a patch of dirt like I have many times before.
Here's a few pictures of some of the cars I've built
68 camaro built from the ground up from a statutory write off in a tiled rumpus room with double doors.
Datsun 240z built with an l28 swap built in a car port on a sloped block.
Datsun 260z l28 swap built in my driveway at home.
Bagged Toyota hilux with a cantilever 4link built in my carport.
Any way the back and forth with you is really starting to bore me, I get that you're opinionated but I also find you to be quite ultracrepidarian,
I'll keep posting what i do and try be innovative and you can keep living in the past , I won't bother to reply to you anymore
I have an extensive knowledge of industrial automation (wiring up a car is a walk in the park) I've worked as a spray painter painting semi trucks, for the past 5 years I've worked in the metal fabrication industry and now I'm the supervisor of a timber joinery, I've been building cars since I was 15. Yeah it's handy having a shop to work in but if I didn't I'd still get it done in a driveway or even on a patch of dirt like I have many times before.
Here's a few pictures of some of the cars I've built
68 camaro built from the ground up from a statutory write off in a tiled rumpus room with double doors.
Datsun 240z built with an l28 swap built in a car port on a sloped block.
Datsun 260z l28 swap built in my driveway at home.
Bagged Toyota hilux with a cantilever 4link built in my carport.
Any way the back and forth with you is really starting to bore me, I get that you're opinionated but I also find you to be quite ultracrepidarian,
I'll keep posting what i do and try be innovative and you can keep living in the past , I won't bother to reply to you anymore
Mmm, Camaro....
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Made up a temporary decat straight pipe out of the c30 exhaust, I cut off the flange and rotated it for rwd and then just cut the exhaust up and used the bends that I needed to point it in the right direction.
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Also got two more lines run for the oil system. Only two more oil lines and the intake pipe that I should have finished this week and the engine is all plumbed up!
Awesome! Looks like heaps of room for the downpipe...that engine in fact looks like it has heaps of room in the engine bay from the top. Looks can be deceiving I imagine! Hope to see this car in the flesh someday!
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Aftermarket 3" downpipe right? Looking good.
Whats the progress on the suspension arms?
Whats the progress on the suspension arms?
Got a little more done on the intake system today.
Bov T with Volvo p1 map sensor bung.
And welded in the plum back pipe through the intake box to the intake pipe.
And made up the intake pipe still need to weld in the port for the bov plumback into the intake pipe, clean up the weld and polish it up. I'm happy with how clean it all looks.
Bov T with Volvo p1 map sensor bung.
And welded in the plum back pipe through the intake box to the intake pipe.
And made up the intake pipe still need to weld in the port for the bov plumback into the intake pipe, clean up the weld and polish it up. I'm happy with how clean it all looks.
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engine and bay look so clean and shiny, will be a shame to drive it !
Which tune is going onto it?
It will be a shame but I'm sure the fun factor will make it worth it!morgan;117299 wroteengine and bay look so clean and shiny, will be a shame to drive it !
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I'll run a custom elevate tune, Don has always looked after me and His products are top notch.Philia_Bear;117300 wroteWhich tune is going onto it?